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Posted

Great watch Adam even for a muppet like me ... Ta

Posted

Here’s the screen shot he suggested you grab 😁

C6CC6A6B-ED65-4886-8590-6FDFA3E99EF0.png

 

Very informative @AdamR 👍

Posted

I really enjoyed that.

 

Thanks for posting.

Posted

Got a question for you @AdamR  

 

When out on the road with arb’s connected the car tends to exhibit what I’d describe as be a bit of “chatter” - more noticeable at the rear. 

 

With arb’s disconnected and a couple of clicks removed from (single adj protech) dampers it’s all nice and smooth and fine on bumpy roads. 

 

Now, I’d prefer to just keep the arb’s on to save the faff - I know others seem happy to run them on the road - so any suggestions?

 

I’ve not played around with settings (other than +/- 2-clicks per swap) as I don’t want to mess it up. 

 

Edit: arbs  are pretty soft, but the chatter on road just gets tiring. Fine on track!

Posted
55 minutes ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said:

Now, I’d prefer to just keep the arb’s on to save the faff - I know others seem happy to run them on the road - so any suggestions?

 

You can leave the arb on, just disconnect one end? maybe remove a link completely if it looks like it may foul something.

Posted

Very welcome gents! It's the first time I've seen so much stuff explained so well in one logically constructed video, so thought it was worth a share.

 

@Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO - sadly it's a case of that phrase about cakes and eating. As the chap in the video alludes to, the ARB basically connects left and right side so they will 'chatter' to each other as you said. As Andrew has just mentioned, clearly it's 'only' a case of removing a drop link, but having done the same on my car I totally get how that is a pain (especially with the standard Plays-Kool clamps which are a really snug fit and have double bolts)!

 

There is a crafty system that off-roaders use which is a quick release ARB system. Two ways of doing this - have the drop links attached using pins and 'dowels' rather than bolts (https://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-sway-bar-quick-disconnects-explained.html) or having the actual bar itself sleeved and then bolted lever arms added: https://www.jimnybits.com/suzuki-jimny-anti-roll-bar-sway-bar-quick-disconnect-kit.html

 

You can then remove the bolt for road driving, popping it back in for the track. As long as you can get in from the top (no boot box) it's an easy job. The one on the Jimny site is waaayy overbuilt, but you get the idea.

 

I'd favour the latter I think, as I feel the pins and dowels system will have a touch of play and - while not really an issue for a wallowy 4x4 - therefore reduce sensitivity and feedback on our cars.

 

 

Posted
50 minutes ago, Andrew said:

 

You can leave the arb on, just disconnect one end? maybe remove a link completely if it looks like it may foul something.

That’s what I do now. Would just like to avoid it as I’ve already lost one cap head bolt that happened to be a different size to any I had spare!

 

edit: also it does fowl so I have to slacken the adjuster and move it way onboard. Thus it’s more than a simple disconnect. 

Posted
43 minutes ago, AdamR said:

having the actual bar itself sleeved and then bolted lever arms

That’s a good idea, no sure it would fit on the rear though with tank in the way, but worth investigating!

Posted

👍 The connecting arm can point in any direction, or you can have it off to one side, if that helps clearance...

Posted
2 minutes ago, AdamR said:

👍 The connecting arm can point in any direction, or you can have it off to one side, if that helps clearance...

It’s the actual bar. It’s close to the top ball joint, so have to move the connectors inboard a lot to get the bar downwards if you follow. 

Posted

Fascinating video, very informative and well put over.

Thanks for posting.

Posted

Ah, I meant for implementing the Jimny type system 👍

Posted
1 hour ago, AdamR said:

Ah, I meant for implementing the Jimny type system 👍

Doh!

Posted

Very useful

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