Buying a used engine

[Duncan_K]

Hello,

 

After many years wanting to build a Westfield I finally have the garage space to build in. The plan is to build a sport 250 from starter kit with a used drivetrain to keep the budget on track. Having read many of the build threads on here I will definitely be starting one when the time arrives, but first task is to sort a used motor. 

 

Im after something around 20k mileage and 3 years old, there are some good examples on ebay (links below) but all seam to have been removed from insurance write-offs with no way of checking they were a good runner. What is peoples opinions of the risk of buying an engine you haven't seen running? Compression test and turn it over by hand on the pallet? 

 

Any other recommendation of where to source a used motor?  

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2017-Ford-Focus-ST3-2-0-Petrol-Engine-and-Gearbox-R9DC-Only-7131-Miles/392298693833?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-ST-Mk3-2-0-PETROL-TURBO-COMPLETE-ENGINE-CODE-R9DA-LOW-MILEAGE/352671315188?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Cheers 

Duncan

[Greenstreak-Andy D]

Hi Duncan,

Looking forward to reading your build thread. A sport 250 is truly an epic Westie. 

About engines, buying used will always come with a risk. As you say, better hearing the engine run if possible. You have to be quick to ask the seller/ breaker to see in the damaged car before they pull it. 

Your first eBay find would appear to show a running engine, call them quick!

Andy

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

Welcome can highly recommend joining the WSCC, great people, and a huge source of experienced advice. Certainly helped my build. Where are you based?

Personally think the 250 is a great car, mind you I'm probably biased!

Can't really add much on the used engine front. However, if you can hear one running and it sounds "tappety" check the foam cover is fitted on the fuel pump (top, gearbox end of the engine). The cover absorbs a lot of the noise of the pump!

You will need the electronic throttle pedal assembly as well. Guess you could buy a new one, but could save some pennies if you can get one with the engine. Sure it's on your radar, but you'll need a Mazda gearbox and diff. (Not sure if a Sierra diff. can be fitted in a 250 chassis).

Look forward to hearing more.

[Steve (sdh2903)]

The biggest thing putting me off those 2 on Ebay Is there relatively low/zero feedback. When I bought mine unseen the breaker did a facetime/Skype video of it running with me and then removed after I'd bought. Granted it could have all been a show and not even my engine but he also gave a 6 month warranty.

 

Just a few things to try and negotiate into the deal. You'll need the engine harness and also the injector loom. I thought that it was only 1 engine loom but mine came without the injector loom and ended up another 100 quid for one.

 

The engine/ECU (depending on ECU choice) uses 3 map/mapt sensors. Theres one in the plastic inlet manifold, one near the intercooler (outlet iirc) and one near the maf sensor. Again they can be a few quid buying new ones so try and get them thrown in. Again I missed one and it was another 80 odd quid from Ford.

 

As @AdgeC says the EcoBoosts sound very tappy it's the cam driven fuel pump and the foam cover makes a lot of difference.

 

As far as I know (it may have changed) the 250 chassis has mounts for both Sierra and Mazda diffs. @Rednop1 may be able to confirm.

 

 

 

[Duncan_K]

Thanks for the input guys. Good point about the sensors Steve I will try get them included, im planning on using the SCS Delta GDI 4 ECU has anyone used this on the 2.0 yet? I see it is being used by people building with the 1.6. 

 

Planning on going Mazda box and diff, these look fairly cheap and available second hand. 

 

Located in the West Mids, will look to get out to a meet when I have committed to a motor and fully joined up. 

 

 

 

 

[Steve (sdh2903)]

Just ask SCS what sensors they use. I think from the top of my head they use 2 rather than the 3.

 

Yep the Mazda box and diff are easily available. Just be aware the mx5 diff adapter flanges are pretty pricey and I think are only available from Westfield. 

 

You'll also need the mx5 mk3 flywheel and starter. Also budget for a concentric slave cylinder conversion. These are available from https://www.vitesse-ltd.com/ or probably from Westfield aswell. 

[Smudge62]

Hi Duncan,

 

Depending on when you want to start collect parts for your build I may be able to help you out, I have a Sport 250 that is being turned into a sprint and hill climb car so possibly have will have the following parts for sale.

 

All parts have only done 834 miles from new

 

Mazda gearbox, flywheel, friction plate, pressure plate, slave cylinder, starter motor.

Aim digital dash

Ford racing ecu

Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 alloys with tyres, front 7" x 15" and rears are 8" x 15"

Protech dampers with springs

Front and rear anti roll bars

 

David

[BugMan]

Very much looking forward to seeing your build, not sure if I’m close enough being near Wakefield, but your welcome to pay us a visit to talk all things Sport 250.  Drop me  PM if I can be of any help?

 

Most of us who have built 250’s will do our upmost to help out, as will the rest of the forum.  Steve was our path leader closely followed by AdgeC and Exitus with me bring up the rear (chassis No.24, be interred to see what chassis number you get ?) and all of us have contributed to the 250 story.  I’d recommend reading Dave’s 2000 build, I learned a lot from Dave, and picked a load of tricks and tips from  him..

 

All of us have build logs up, which I’m sure you have already looked at, and the biggest thing is ground clearance and replacing the sump and pulling the 8Kg balancer shaft, which I’ve just completed following AdgeC’s guide.  Do this before you load the engine into the chassis for God’s sake, otherwise it’s a nunney of a job.

 

if you can I’d opt to sort out a LSD from the start as the power is there from very low in the rev range.  I’ve got the Mazda 5 speed box and LSD diff which came from WF as part of my package.

 

Cooling is marginal in the 250, if you can try to get the GRP nose cowling that fits inside the nose, or your in for some CAD work to try to get all the air coming through the nose through the rad/intercooler. Also swap the T-Stat for the lower temp one from Steve’s build, as well as the front grill.

 

We as a group have all had great fun in the build process, and I’m still tinkering with mine all the time, it’s a fantastic rush as you reach milestone, let alone when out with the local WF group.

 

I’d HIGHLY recommend getting along to your local group, was the first thing I did before committing to my build as you will find the nicest group of people from all walks of life who can offer advice and help along the way, and you will be better for it.

 

Your in for a treat as even thinking about my run out tomorrow to work in the WF gets me all excited, Ooh I sound sad, but you will see what I mean.

 

When you have an idea of the list of options your going for from WF post them up, so we can what your going for, and some idea of what you intended to use the car for is always interesting 

 

Welcome to the forum

BagMan  

 

 

 

 

take Dave up on his 250 bits, save a fortune I’d guess 

 

 

 

 

[Arm]

You are right to be cautious of e bay engines. Always assume the worst .

If there is no oil in the engine you won't be able to do a compression test.  Or at least you shouldn't spin it over too much.