Chassis dimension

[tisme]

If we're talking about more than just a few tubes and a bit of welding on one side, which it's sounds like we are, then I'd definitely be contacting the factory to see what the options are.

If as stated that "basically the front end from the back of the pedals needs replacing " then presumably there's been some form of heavy front end impact. If so, then it's highly likely that the forces involved would have pushed the engine / gearbox / propshaft / diff backwards at quite a rate and although maybe not appearing to have broken anything further back may well have weakened various mountings or distorted the pickups and alignments.

Also, presumably the front suspension would have been wiped out or damaged so talking to the factory may get you a better deal on all the bits you'd need and you could save lots of money if you stripped down the whole car either to take the chassis over for repair or to completely replace it.

Without prying too much - was this inspected at any time by an insurance company and given any "CAT" category - depending of what it had (if any) then there are implications for future insurance and selling it on if you need to. Either way an approved repair / replacement with invoices would be my way forward.

 

 

[Stephenfrancis86]

hi sorry to all,

i was mis-informed about the chassis, it hasn't been in any collisions or anything iv spoken to my mate and basically the front of the chassis was removed by someone before he

acquired it so the general idea is to rebuild the front, the rest of the chassis is fine.

if anyone can shed any light on this id really appreciate it.

 

thanks

[Captain Colonial]

Not trying to be unhelpful or funny, please don't take this the wrong way  but why on earth would anyone remove the front half of the chassis if it was undamaged? 

It's very important that the correct chassis number and placed there by WSC is present on the chassis.  If it isn't, you must contact WSC and discuss it with them to protect yourself from a legal and insurance point of view.

 

[stephenh]

That could be a problem if, as on my car, the chassis number is stamped by the factory into the chassis on one side of the engine bay. Where is that number on the chassis which this thread concerns?

[Stephenfrancis86]

not entirely sure to be honest it does have the brace with the chassis number on it and thats about it

 

[tisme]

I really would check with the factory about ANY possibility of that chassis being repaired - personally I'd never feel secure in it as you have the weight of the engine and the forces of the front suspension basically being taken up by weld joints as opposed to original full length longitudinal box sections. Maybe it could be strengthened by extra overlapping pieces but this really is getting into major modification (imho).

If you have the chassis number, I'd also check with the DVLA to see what "state" the vehicle is recorded as (do you have the full V5C ?) - sorry to sound a bit negative but the whole concept of the Lotus 7 type chassis (of which the Westfield is very similar) is built around the integrity of the whole original design and construction - our cars can be very fast and absorb high levels of vibration and stress (just ask the guys that sprint and race) - structural failure in a major part of the chassis could prove disastrous.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I'd also consider the possible impact on future values, come the point when you want to sell and move on. It's one thing to have a documented factory repair, (regardless of how good the fabricator that repairs it privately is, he could well be more skilled than the factories chassis people, but unless he has a company behind him with a proven record in chassis building and repair, it's going to put people off.)

If it's just for rebuilding a track nail, that's going to have a hard life and forever be patched together with "bitsa" second hand body work, then that's one thing.

But if you're going to invest good money on rebuilding the car to look good as new, then I'd worry I was putting money in that could never be got back.

I'm sorry, but this is a very different situation to taking a production car to an Independant body shop for repairs; in that situation, they're either going to "unbend" existing panels, or replace with either OEM or pattern copies of panels, or more likely a mix of the two.

What they're not going to do, is order a load of sheet steel and make the damaged/missing body panels from scratch, which is what we effectively have here.

[Terryathome]

Just get it welded up, it will be fine.

It's not like this hasn't been done before

[tisme]

4 hours ago, Terryathome said:

Just get it welded up, it will be fine.

It's not like this hasn't been done before

Rather you than me then

[CraigHew]

4 hours ago, Terryathome said:

Just get it welded up, it will be fine.

It's not like this hasn't been done before

[stephenh]

6 hours ago, Terryathome said:

Just get it welded up, it will be fine.

It's not like this hasn't been done before

If there was the slightest risk that it ends up in the situation of 2 cars having the same chassis number then it would be a very serious problem for someone!

Or if the car has been written off previously it would be prudent to know what category has been registered at dvla, putting it mildly.

And that is before you even start looking at possible further chassis damage to the rear of the front baulkhead, and the issue which the O/P has already raised about the correct dimensions and geometry!

[Terryathome]

How negative do you lot want to get. If your not happy repairing a chassis I think you have more than put your point across. Me personally not a problem.

Get it welded up or get your wallet out.

[Terryathome]

1 hour ago, stephenh said:

If there was the slightest risk that it ends up in the situation of 2 cars having the same chassis number then it would be a very serious problem for someone!

Or if the car has been written off previously it would be prudent to know what category has been registered at dvla, putting it mildly.

And that is before you even start looking at possible further chassis damage to the rear of the front baulkhead, and the issue which the O/P has already raised about the correct dimensions and geometry!

You need to read the whole thread

[Thrustyjust]

My mate had a Peugeot rally car. It was registered by Peugeot when they built them. He did an event when he bought it, about 4 years after. A photographer came up to him in the event and said there was 2 cars with the same reg numbers , both Super 1600 Peugeot cars. He found the other car in the paddock. He chatted to the guy and then spoke to the DVLA on the Monday. So, for 4 years the DVLA had been accepting money for road fund on a registration of a car/ cars with 2 chassis numbers, 2 engines numbers , 2 lots of payments and the 'system' didnt have a clue it was happening. Ironically he could have had tax free driving. DVLA mumbled a bit and sent him docs for a new reg number. As for chassis numbers, Westfield have 1 . Thats it, no floor numbers, not matrix dots , just some bloke with a press , who bangs them on the diagonal. Not exactly complex for a thief and an angle grinder and an hour to change.

Even so, I would still be wary on the complete front end being replaced. You can sleeve the original steel and weld over, but there was a V8 who's chassis broke at the bulkhead from torque and although you could add additional bracing, you could spend a fortune in time labour , when you could probably get a basic chassis kit for a few grand .  

[Terryathome]

Step,  sat here on the couch I can't remember which box sections go all the way through from front to back if you get what I mean. I think someone mentioned it to brace over the joint if I understood it correctly. It would not be my first choice to brace out or slip joing but you may consider it but carefully on which chassis member you do, again not the first choice. Adding gussets with good intentions in the wrong place could also work against you as the chassis will flex in the wrong places and put undue stress where the manufacture did not intend it to be. It's been said before a good welder with a good welding machine is the way to go and mig welding would be my only choice. Get the chassis bolted/welded down to a flat surface where you can get things inline/square off and you will be halfway there.

Good luck and let's us know your progress.

Edit: Use the correct grade and specification box tube for any replacements