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Don't you just hate it when that happens.


DamperMan

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I'd go for the new one.  Unless you know the history, there's always the risk that the car rolled, and its killed its bearings or its a 150+k motor.

 

And once you've got it working, try not to open the bonnet - its bad luck

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Powertorque have some Automatic engines in stock at 695 + VAT... They need a flywheel and crank sensor bracket...    I've ordered a new manual one this morning for £50 more including delivery from elseware.

 

For some reason I thought the new engines where Ford motorsport engines and they had the ST170 bottom end but std non VVTi top end.    But I can't find any reference to that in reality.   I think I'll need to wait for the engine to see if it takes St170 or Std flywheel bolts as I believe they are different.  Again i'm probably wrong...   

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 well I removed the engine tonight

 

Inlet piston number 1 has some interesting aluminium munchings in... I ai assume then to be either head or piston.

 

564C4FDD-C0FB-4D15-AC4F-EDBBEED863F9_zps

 

on the exhaust side more conclusive was a broken valve shaft and half a head.

 

7C05C8FC-B01E-4988-98D9-C562220157C8_zps

 

7E1891A0-830D-4999-802A-772112B01173_zps

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If you go to the right place the engine will come with a known milage. My old Silvertop came with loads of info Inc the car vin. It also had a 3 month guarantee.

I'm pretty sure my st170 did also.

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I thought it had just ate the valves. It turns out it ate a complete piston. Very impressive for about 20 seconds of tickover.

93AE489B-D519-436C-A20B-618022D1D364_zps

There's just a gudgion pin on the Conrod no piston any more

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Ifter stripping out the baffles I left it in the work spray wash 'Rotajet' machine in fabrication for 30 minutes before considering it to be near clean... I struggle to comprehend it even has the power/ momentum in the flywheel to do this on tick over.. I'd hoped to sell the 2.o cams to a 1.8 owner. But I'' struggling to find anything saleable NBC the old engine

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Update engines all ready. Took the gearbox out today.. pondering upgrade here.. I want to move the engine back 2" so there's a bit of work to do.. propshaft needs a visit to the chop saw and a weld. I need to cut a chunk out of the bell housing for my narrow tunnel. Mod the engine mounts. All good fun :)

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 I struggle to comprehend it even has the power/ momentum in the flywheel to do this on tick over..

If tickover is 800rpm, that's what, 13ish revs a second? How many times would you have to hit that with a hammer to break it in to that many pieces? 50 times? 100 times? 100 "hits with the hammer" would take a bit less than 7 seconds.

20 seconds of tickover is more than enough... 

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If tickover is 800rpm, that's what, 13ish revs a second? How many times would you have to hit that with a hammer to break it in to that many pieces? 50 times? 100 times? 100 "hits with the hammer" would take a bit less than 7 seconds.

20 seconds of tickover is more than enough... 

 

When my XE engine disintegrated last year it was only (only !!) doing 6,000 rpm - so yes, the mind boggles when you work that out in seconds and I thought I was pretty quick in hitting the engine kill switch - perhaps 2 seconds but as you say, in those 2 seconds the sledge hammer has had its evil way 200 times :cry:   (and not to mention momentum, inertia, centrifugal forces etc ).

 

I can still hear the sickening "thud" as the engine locked itself solid and relieved itself of all its hot water and oil....... it gave me a much needed reminder that a) we shouldn't blast the pants off them without being prepared for the consequences b) you shouldn't ignore any new strange noises hoping they'll go away :blush: and c) don't tempt fate with either missing recommended service item change intervals or using cheap replacement parts (especially for belt driven cam systems !!)  

 

(which reminds me I need to change the belt on our 200tdi Defender - but why do they make it so flipping difficult :angry:  - and I certainly won't be using any bits from B***part :o

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perhaps 2 seconds but as you say, in those 2 seconds the sledge hammer has had its evil way 200 times

120 times...

6000 revs in 60 secs = 600 revs in 10 seconds = 60 revs a second, x 2 = 120.

I hope your maths is better when it comes to pay review time :oops::p  :getmecoat: 

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120 times...

6000 revs in 60 secs = 600 revs in 10 seconds = 60 revs a second, x 2 = 120.

I hope your maths is better when it comes to pay review time :oops::p  :getmecoat: 

 

ummm .... surely 6000rpm divided by 60 seconds = 100 revolutions per second, so one second = 100 revolutions and two seconds would be 200 revolutions

 

conversely, if one second = 100 revolutions then 60 seconds would be 60 x 100 = 6000 revolutions in a minute

 

in your example if 600 revs in 10 seconds = 60 rps then conversely 60rps x 60  (seconds) would be 3600rpm

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Revolutions_per_minute

 

and actually I used the calculator here

 

http://www.convertunits.com/from/revolutions+per+minute/to/revolution+per+second

 

or the other way round...

 

http://www.convertunits.com/from/revolution+per+second/to/revolutions+per+minute

 

(note - that website also has a Salary Calculator ! :p )

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You had me worried there - I thought it was just me at 1 o'clock in the morning !   :d  (spine problems again - can't sleep :down: )

 

Getting back to the OP though.....

 

I'd love to try something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-crate-Engine-FORD-2-7-Ecoboost-V6-Twin-Turbo-Petrol-/262710769783?hash=item3d2ac83877:g:d1kAAOSwal5YIgP7

 

V6 sounds about the right size for a Westie and 325hp / 375 lb/ft (there's a high performance version that has 450hp and 510 lb/ft :d ) - the 325 one for £2k makes me wonder why on earth I rebuilt my XE at twice the price (ok, I know - the extra costs of a conversion etc) - but if there's a next time ......... :rolleyes:

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