Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 If it's anything like the other Ecoboosts, there are some potentially high costs involved in the conversion though, due to the need for specialist ecu's etc. modified steering columns, fly by wire throttle pedal conversion, exhaust systems etc. It could be a cracking engine, perhaps, (I know nothing about it), but I bet you could also be the thick end of five or six grand fitted, and still be in need of either a Mazda gearbox conversion, or a few thousand pounds worth of updated Ford gearbox, (if you don't already have one). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Mind you, I do agree, it's increasingly hard to justify the costs of the more extreme end of the naturally aspirated engine tuning these days with the Ecoboosts and various generic Turbo and supercharger kits around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Car Electronics Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Now, I wonder what a 2.3 4 cyl Ecoboost would be like with 315HP... Good that there will be an upgrade path for the Sport 250... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 I never thought I'd say this about an engine.. it's really not very pritty is it!. I've Had a factory Morgan v6 (mustang v6) not a ecoboost but still sounds lovely and was seriously rapid... not as nice sounding as the Essex v6 boat anchor I had in a reliant scimitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisme Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 I agree that these modern engines are in no way pretty - but then they're designed to be hidden away under acres of plastic mouldings with all sorts of logo's printed on them !! (would them there young'uns recognise an engine even if it landed on their Adidas trainers I ask myself ?) Maybe we should ask Burtons to make an alloy cam cover for the ecoboost so it looks like a BDA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 More chance of making it look v8 ish and have a fake elbrook chrome filter on top of a fake Rochester quatojet carb .... better still widen the car, and wack a small block or ls1 in it. The sierra diff may complain ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve (sdh2903) Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 Now, I wonder what a 2.3 4 cyl Ecoboost would be like with 315HP... Good that there will be an upgrade path for the Sport 250... Funny you mention that, was talking to powertorque last week and they mention a calibration for the ford racing ecu is in the pipeline next year for the 2.3 motor. I imagine the 2.3 crate engines will be a fair bit more pricey than the 2.0 tho. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the stoat Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 Since disaster struck... things have moved on. The "New 2005" crate engine is patiently waiting and all dressed up in the raceline sump, and home made aternator brackets and idlers transferred off the old engine. a gallon of millers running in oil all in. Bearing placed in crank and clutch all in ready If anyone is buying a crate zetec engine now it appears they are all engines for automatics so you need a flywheel and change the insert/ bracket which holds the Crank position sensor. These are transferable off a manual engine. I had a radtec 50mm rad which I bodged in previously, but now made a nice aluminium bracket to hold it. It was my first bit of alloy welding and i was really pleased. Now i'm looking at what else I can ally weld :).. I need some more practice before I try a fuel tank or it would be a fuel strainer Also I've altered my 4-2-1 ST170 inspired manifold. The 4-2 (the ford bit) is about 44mm IIRC, the 2-1 section is 2" the same as Cosworth tec intended, but in the shapes which fit the car. The tail part after the merge, i'd left at at 2" as it fitted the exhaust box I had. I've been watching for a larger re -packable box but!!!!! nothings come my way. I spoke NMS and he recommended I needed about 2.5". The post 2-1 section is now 2.5" with a lambda boss to make it easier for the rolling road person. After a bit of looking I realized a sealed stainless 24" box, 6" outer, 2.5 inner is about £45. if it needs repacking in a few years i can either scrap it or cut it open. That's all ready waiting for me to weld in a tail and inlet. I need the engine in first so i can get the angles right. I also wanted to move the engine back 2" so I can replace the cut out from the bonnet (cam cover touching). I'm not certain of how much different the car will feel with the engine further back but technically its better!. This has lead to some more things to do. Cut a chunk out of the bell housing. I need a shorter prop (ordered and should be here soon). I made some new engine mounts last night to accommodate the move. The gearbox gear extension was absolutely worn out. The saddles are almost gone and the linear bushes are completely warn out. I'm amazed I could find any gears!. When i first had the car i would struggle but i got used to it... A replacement gear extension has been ordered. The chassis was a bit bent where the car had a wheel strike many years ago. I cut the chassis top rail and front to rear diagonal and it all dropped back into position before welding and adding strengthening plates. The nose of the car should not need 10mm of spacers one side to make it level with the rest of the car now. Finally my gearbox. Unknown history. rear prop shaft plain bearing is warn so even with a new seal the prop leaks. We all know it makes a lot of difference having the right gearing, probably more so than having 20 more horses. So a high first, heavy duty, close ratio box is in build now. Hope to have it next week/ friday this week. Really hoping to get it all back together before Christmas. When I've got to start the wifes kitchen...... Busy busy busy lovi g the easy picture insery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Picked up the gearbox today. Got back to work. Cleared some fab emails by 4:30. Thought I'd introduce engine to box. Bell housing with cut out fitted and all slide together nice. At this point it was only 5 pm. So all went on the engine hoist and placed in the car. My home made mounts all worked out to be in the right place. The engines a smudge over 2 inch further back. I need to cut/ mod the rear gearbox chassis support. A new rubber would be nice to. I think I will need to coress the nice inlet trumpet on cylinder 4 it appears to be about 3mm off the brake master cylinder. My exhaust manifold is also very close to the side diagonal. I might need to create a bit more clearance there to. On the plus side I won't need the gear linkage extension but will need to kink the stick a little. It's tantalisingly close to being back together enough to take it for ablast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Its all mostly together and later today i'll be able to take it for a buzz around the block. I'm not expecting anything better from the new zetec over the old but! the gearbox I'm hoping the ratios are good. I made this a lot harder for myself then it needed to be. A straight like for like engine swop i'd say would be a nice days job. But I thought move the engine back, and change the gearbox to a uprated, high first box. Also I wanted a better looking install as my original setup was not the tidiest. The metal stuff like engine mounts has all worked out well, prop, gear stick position and so on. All good! The outcome is generally looking decent. I never think a collection of silicone hoses looks great even if the jubilee clips are aligned etc. The Bit i'm not satisfied with is I had to take a little off the edge off no4 trumpet (omex itb) so it has a fingers width gap between it and the master cylinder. I'm running double sock type filters which is apparently are not all that good for power. But they fit and keep the bigger nasties out. But! I really wanted to fit a better sausage type as they should flow better. I just can't see how!. Any other suggestions!. I'm not really sure its been worth all the effort to move the engine back 2" compared to where it was before.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Loudon - Sponsorship Liaison Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Post a picture and we might have some suggestions. Floor mounted pedals spring to mind immediately but there may be an easier option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 1 hour ago, John said: Post a picture and we might have some suggestions. Floor mounted pedals spring to mind immediately but there may be an easier option Certainly might be a possibility, there used to be a retrofittable pedal box from someone, that put the M/C's in front of the pedals, under your feet, IYSWIM, for even more engine bay side clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Added pics to last post. My test drive was short but mostly positive, 0-45 in first makes 60 feel to come up really quick. I forgot i was running it in! Having not driven it for a while the car simply feels very quick.!. A few shakes down issues One front headlamp came loose and was searching for stuff in the sky or floor or to the side.. The water temp gauge is unsettled. Loose connection some where. More of an issue is the clutch started to slip when i was giving it some beans.. But I'll hold judgement since there might have been some contamination needing to burn off bed in etc.. It was new only 1500 miles ago and was not slipping with the old engine. It looked fine when apart. The clutch, flywheel and pressure plate are direct off the old engine I can't see how i could have put it together wrong. The bearing is all releasing fine. Hopefully it will be fine or i'll be thinking of the next upgrade! Yep Floor mounted peddle boxes and alike could be a cure for the filter that sounds expensive! and sizable work.. I might just buy a sausage filter and let it rub!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 You could also cut 'n shut an inlet manifold to move the throttle bodies further away? Or a different brand manifold might position them better? I suppose, you could in theory, even machine a wedge shaped spacer to go between manifold and head to alter the angle of the TB's a little? Most of the foam type filters I've seen come with a wire mesh cage that supports the foam, by careful bending of the mesh, its possible to "shape" the foam a little. Also, most filter makers do blank versions of the mounting plates. By using one of these and cutting your own holes in it, it's possible to offset the filter slightly up/down/side to side. You can't go far, or it hits the trumpets, but it might be enough? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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