the David

[darve]

I applied a strip of foam tape to the ali panel (tunnel tops rivnuted on)

[Hemsley]

Thanks for the feedback chaps. I shall make up a DIY rivnut tool this weekend, with only a few to fix it should be ok.

[Hemsley]

Awesome fun over the weekend as 2 friends came up from Devon to spend the weekend in my garage. Both have lots of experience building their own Tiger, Westfield and Caterham, and several other projects. The timing was perfect, just at the point where I would need some help with the heavier components.

 

Started out with a splendid home cooked curry on Friday night (thanks to my wife who is a great cook), then much standing around in the garage introducing them to the tool box and checking that we had all the parts set aside for each task.

 

Saturday started with flipping the chassis over to add a few more lengths of slit tube to protect the fuel and brake pipes. Then loose fitted the loom but only as far as the handbrake towards the rear of the car - decided to thread the last section through when we'd put the diff in. You'll also see from the pictures that there are no panels fitted, so very easy access for all 3 of us to play.

 

Then installed the diff. No real issues fitting the diff since we had 3 pairs of hands, although there was a brief angle grinder moment to take a smidge off one of the bushes so that the washers could squeeze in. We did balance the diff on a hydraulic jack so that we could get the height just right to slide the bolts into place.

 

 

Hooking up the drive shafts was also straight forward, however at this point I needed to adjust the main rear brake line where it loops up from the tunnel to the t-piece. It was only a small adjustment of 15-20mm, but if I ever replace the brake lines I will do it with copper.

 

Important to keep hydrated while working.

 

 

 

Having fitted the right hand drive shaft I found a similar problem with the left hand brake line where it was too close to the shaft near the diff. Easier to move, replacing the pipe clip with a p-clip. Finished off by adding more slit tube so that it is well protected.

 

 

Then onto fitting the wishbones and fuel tank frame. A little more tricky getting everything to line up, but 3 of us (and a soft faced hammer) it was soon done.

 

Top Tip. We found that several of the threads on the drive shaft were all clogged up. It would have been far easier to run a tap through them before we had started to fit the shafts to the diff. We did the left hand side before going much further. Do this before fitting the shafts (see notes about the prop shaft later!). .

 

 

Fitting the upright and in particular the captive bolts into the end of the drive shaft was easy enough once we had run the tap through. Remembered to apply the thread lock.

 

 

Left hand side was straight forward, but when checking carefully we did find that we'd mixed up a few of the different sized washers. Easy to sort out as only the diff and drive shaft bolts were torqued up.

 

 

We then moved onto the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, inertia switch and the fuel hoses. I'll post some more pictures later with the location of these, the fuel pump is at the back centre of the tank mounted on the chassis, just above where the inertia switch is fitted.

 

This was about as far as we got on the Saturday, so on Sunday...

 

We finished off the breather pipe for the fuel tank and few other minor adjustments, and then onto the front wishbones, and uprights.

 

 

Having studied a few pictures we worked out which way up the upper wishbones should fit, and then bolted it all together. I think I've since understood that we have not put a thick bronze coloured washer in the right place - should be between the ball joint and the upright? Anyway should not be so hard to sort that out.

 

We then moved back to fit the hand brake, cables, and prop shaft. Hand brake was easy enough, and again I will post more pictures of where I have routed the cables. Stalled when it came to the prop shaft as we could not find the right bolts, so that's just resting in place for now. I'm guessing that we will find the threads on the diff clogged up, and not sure I have the right tap to clean them out - fingers crossed.

 

 

Before we finished off we thought we would fit the steering column, and while the top section was ok, found that I had the wrong parts for the lower section (should be single piece).

 

 

 

 

Engine in before Christmas?

 

Without much more to tackle we decided it was time to celebrate - it's starting to look like a car!

[Cleggy the Spyder Man]

keep posting - enjoying it

[Sand Dancer]

Regarding the propshaft bolts - I have just fitted mine and the 4 black coloured bolts were contained in a plastic bag taped to the packaging that wrapped the propshaft. 

Best check your dustbin!!

[Hemsley]

Ahhhh. Just heading off for a bit of bin-diving!

[Hemsley]

I finished off my last update thinking I might have the engine in before Christmas... read on.

 

To start with a small update from last weekend. Ian sent over 4 M10 x 1 bolts for the propshaft, and the single piece lower steering column. Trial fitted the steering column and then removed it in readiness for fitting the engine.

 

Propshaft was not quite so straight forward. I did then find that the holes in the diff were really clogged up, and there was no way to get the bolts in without damaging them. Bought a Tap (from Amazon as I could not find a local supplier in Watford) and soon cleaned the threads out. It looked like resin so I guess it was the remains of threadlock that were not cleared out when refurbished. After that it was easy to fit the bolts with some fresh threadlock.

 

When drilling the holes for the gearbox mount I found that the mounting plate was not central in the tunnel. The dimensions for the holes are based on the location of the slots in this plate. Not being sure how to interpret this I called Mark and he advised that the 2 mounting holes should be 115mm forward from the front face of the tube across the bottom of the tunnel and just behind the plate. Measured carefully and drilled the holes. Crossed fingers and toes they are in the right place as the advice in the manual if they don't align is "fettle them out with a round file".

 

There are a few other tasks that I could have then moved onto, but the next big task was obviously the engine. I was a little nervous about this, so I talked to a few pals at the Herts Beds & Bucks meeting to pick up a few tips, and revisited a few of the other build blogs. The support from this club is simply fantastic, and a big thank you to Keith for lending me his engine crane. So on Saturday I started to prepare.

 

First task was to check that all the suspension bolts were nipped up.

 

Inserted the bronze coloured washers under the nut on the inside top of the front uprights. I'd checked with Mark at Westfield where these should be fitted, and I'm fairly sure this is correct.

 

Dropped the chassis down from the build stands onto axle stands. This weekends tool purchase was 2 x axle stands, on special offer at Halfords.

 

Rolled the engine up to the front of the car. My garage is on an incline, and I tested how easy it was to control the crane and engine before it got anywhere close to the car.

 

 

Gearbox mount on the gearbox.

 

I then stood and contemplated where to put straps and chains so that I could safely control the angle of the engine and gear box.

 

The manual says that the balance point is just behind the engine on the bell housing. That does not look likely, and it is not the balance point, I estimate that it is 8cm forward from the back of the engine. In the end I put the main load bearing strap where the manual suggests, and I also put a safety chain through the eye plates, so that this was slightly slack. I put a strap horizontally around the middle of the engine, tied to the main load bearing strap to stop it slipping. To control the angle I put a strap and ratchet to tension it at the front of the engine.

 

When the engine is hanging over the engine bay it really does look like a really tight fit.

 

Some welcome help from Amanda, my better half. Her task was to look after her fingers and keep the right hand engine bearer away from the brake pipes. The manual does say to remove this bearer, but I'm sure I've read in one of the build blogs that is not really necessary. It was not a problem, and Amanda still has all her fingers.

 

The only draw back with using the ratchet strap to tilt the engine is when you want to ease the tension. There is no ratchet back. I rigged up a rope looped over a beam in the garage and under the gear box. This was enough to adjust the angle of the engine so that the propshaft would engage.

 

 

With the propshaft engaged it was easy enough to slide the engine back, and hey presto the gearbox mounting plate was located directly above the holes. No fettling required.

 

To get the left hand engine bracket and the bearers lined up took to bit of fiddling, raising the engine and then slotting in the bracket, and nudging it sideways to get the right hand engine mount over the slot in the chassis. Then it was in and all I needed to do was torque up the fittings.

 

Now that the engine is in I can start to see how everything else stands, especially the loom location. I'm looking forward to the next stage, plenty to keep me busy over the Christmas period.

 

Once again many thanks to Keith for the loan of the engine hoist - I'll be in touch to arrange return!

[Hemsley]

After a very busy week I was looking forward to a quiet weekend, hopefully a few hours in the garage thinking about the wiring loom routing.

 

Started with an easy task, filling the gearbox with transmission fluid. Although I had made a hole in the footwell panel and could have fiddled about using the filler tube, it was much easier to just remove the top plate from the gearbox. I've no idea how clean the inside of the gearbox should be, but in my opinion it all looks very good.Filled with 1.2L of oil, which just takes the level to slightly above the bottom of the filling hoe.

 

 

Moved on to fitting the oil pressure sensor. The data sheet with the sensor says don't use PTFE tape, while the trusty build manual says use a bit. My interpretation was that 2 turns would be safe, which I did, carefully checking with my multimeter that there is a good earth connection. I've not looked up what the 2 separate terminals are used for, but the manual says to connect the wire to "G".

 

 

While contemplating the wiring I did notice that the bell housing was touching the chassis. That seems to be an obvious fault, so I eased off some of the engine and gearbox mounting bolts and tried to slide the engine forward using a jack underneath. Unfortunately there is no play in that direction in the engine mounts. In the end I just slid the engine to the right and took a file to the edge of the casting. It was surprisingly easy to file this back and make a 2mm - 3mm gap. Somehow I think the gap needs to be more than this, as i can imagine that the engine will rotate and vibrate by more than this. Something to be thinking about this week.

 

 

Other than these small steps forward I did play around with the location of the wiring looms. I've also started on the ECU panel, marking where holes for the hinges will be required. More photos of the wiring next week!

[Nick Mace]

I also had to grind a bit off the bell housing in the same place. I think (hope) it's a reasonably common problem.

[Captain Colonial]

This is a very good build thread, but after the last few posts, I'm of the opinion it needs more photos of the lovely Amanda please. You are indeed fortunate to have a wife with beauty and the patience to help you with the build.

[Hemsley]

Scott, I am indeed a very fortunate chap to have Amanda’s support and encouragement. Over the Christmas period she has had no time to come and help on the build, but now that most of our visitors have come and gone that might change in the next couple of days - fingers crossed she will return to brighten my next post.

 

Having taken time out to enjoy Christmas celebrations I’ve not spent so much time in the garage. What time I have spent has been reasonably productive, as working out how best to route the wiring needed “thinking time”, which I was able to indulge on the train to and from work.

 

 

So - the wiring. I sorted out the wiring on the left hand side of the engine bay. Some of the leads were quite long and all the slack was in the engine bay, so I've pulled that back through to the tunnel. I created a loop of spare cable above the gearbox, where it won't be visible and should be reasonably well protected. It can be held firm with some cable ties so that it won’t rattle or escape down the side of the gearbox.

 

Although I know it will need to be removed later I have also fitted the exhaust manifold, mostly because I want to check that I don’t run any cables or pipes to close to it. 

 

 

At this point I've run into a small problem, as the dip-stick has to be removed and then threaded back into the block between the exhaust from cylinders 1 and 2. The trouble is I can't work out how to thread it back into place and still connect the support strap up to the fixing at the top of the engine (could this be another opportunity to play with the pipe-bender?). No hurry to fix this. Since taking his photo I've also moved the live feed from the battery to the starter motor, routing it higher up around the top rail so that it is further away from the exhaust.

 

 

Next up was fitting the radiator so that I can install the cooling system. I thought that the fan would attach to the radiator with self-tapping screws which I generally distrust and avoid if possible. Happily I found that the plastic bodywork of the radiator is tapped and the fan is attached with bolts. Same also for the fixing to the chassis / fins. Also bolted the horn in place, again securely bolted through a rivnut.  I can be clumsy from time to time, hence the cardboard protection.

 

 

 

 

I’m cautiously confident when approaching the “plumbing” as over the years I’ve installed several domestic water and central heating systems. Taught by my Dad of course, and although we had our fair share of mistakes (including accidentally connecting a new loo up to the hot water system instead of the cold) I’m sure he’d have a few tips for me when approaching this next challenge. 

 

The build manual appears to be quite clear and I manage to identify the various bent pipes. I do note that my aluminium pipe D does not have the downwards bend at the front, fingers crossed this will not be a problem. Pictured below is the first pipe to be be fitted, silicone hose J from the bottom of the radiator. It just passes above the gaiter over the steering rack, and connects to pipe L. Not sure how I make sure this stays clear, perhaps it will be more sturdy when I tighten up the jubilee clips later.

 

 

From pipe L there is a bend, pipe I, which connects to the water pump at the front left hand side of the engine. This pipe needed trimming slightly.

 

 

Next up was to fit the top pipe from the radiator, to the hockey-stick pipe F. With this in place I see there is some choice about how to route pipe D, which joins up with the lower pipe L, but also connects to the heater and the expansion bottle. Pipe D is the thinner pipe from the bottom right hand corner of the photo, above the water bottle and below the hockey stick pipe, heading forward towards the radiator. It should have bend that dips down to the lower radiator pipe, but I will have to use a section of bent rubber hose to join these up.

 

 

I can’t work out accurately where to place pipe D until I have trial-fitted the scuttle, and there’s not much point doing anything more on these cooling system pipes until I get that sorted out. It’s a good start and I can now make final adjustments to the cables with confidence, knowing enough to avoid interfering with pipes.

 

At this point it was time for Christmas presents (the mug, not the Rum which is a very old bottle from our honeymoon and has been loitering in cupboard in the garage).

 

 

More updates later!

[Stu Faulkner]

This has to be the most indepth build I have read in ages.

Keep it coming.

[Hemsley]

Stu, thanks for that, but there are some great build logs on this forum that I have found so helpful.

 

Before starting on the scuttle I decided to plumb in the fuel lines to the throttle bodies, along with the fuel pressure regulator. I noticed a few options (as did Sand Dancer) and ended up fitting mine to the top rail. Hoses all fitted and jubilee clips tightened up.

 

 

I'd like to run some fuel through it soon, as it would be easier to check for leaks before fixing any more panels. I assume that I'll need to complete wiring up just about everything before I can do that.

 

 

Trial fitting the scuttle panel was something I started on ages ago, but I had only drilled 4.1mm holes ready for fixing with rivets. I'd decided later to use rivnuts, and it would have been easier to fit them before fitting the engine. The coil pack obstructs several of the holes, so I had to remove that temporarily. Should have been easy but the screws fixing the coil to the head were incredibly tight and I had to use a cheater bar (old steel central heating pipe) to get enough leverage to shift them. All sorted eventually. I've also put some "p" section rubber draught excluder under the panel in an attempt to make this a water tight seal without using silicone. Only time will tell if this has been successful.

 

 

The next step is a major milestone, the first GRP panel now sits on the chassis! I'm lucky to have some loft space in the garage which is where the tub and scuttle have been living. Amanda helped me get the rather heavy scuttle down and onto the car without any slips or collisions. I can see why speed series competitors ditch these components, it's a massive weight saving.

 

 

 

The mouse hole in the scuttle is probably larger than needed, but since it will be covered by the panel that sits over the drivers footwell I thought it would be simpler to have ample clearance. 

 

 

I then checked the routing for the heater pipes and the coolant header tank. I'm going to leave final fitting of the header tank until I have the bonnet in place, so that I can get it as high as possible. I've checked the hoses and worked out where they will run, so for now I'm done with the cooling system.

 

Back to the electrical system, with my objective to get the top tunnel panels fitted, and the ECU / relays secured.

 

 

I've drilled and fitted rivnuts for the top tunnel panels. Actually ran out of the M4 rivnuts so have only fitted them for the front panel so far. In doing this I also cut out and fitted the gear stick gaiter. This seems like a clumsy fitting, or perhaps I've not fitted it properly? If anyone see's any mistakes please let me know!

 

 

Today I am also using this blog to ask a question. What should the resistance be for a good connection? I've been testing a few of the circuits today and measured 0.5 ohms in most cases, where I was expecting zero ohms. Is this usual, or should I already be worrying about how good some of the connections are? Specifically I measured the speed sensor earth to chassis connection, and speed sensor switched live to the live terminal on the starter motor that connects directly to the battery (as I believe that is the source for all live connections). I would have gone to check on my daily driver, but every time I look outside it is raining.

 

Thanks for any advice and feedback.

 

Martin.

[Kit Car Electronics]

The 0.5 Ohm readings sound a little high, but what does your meter say when you just connect the probe leads together?

 

You can test the fuel circuit just by externally powering the pump by the way - the fuel injectors will be shut when electrically disconnected.

[Captain Colonial]

One of the things you will learn about posting these photos is they are double edge swords - we can help point you in the right direction, but we also get to spy on your personal life too!

I see your family dog is doing what all dogs do in these situations - being helpful to you both by getting under your feet at exactly the wrong times. It's even got its own wheelie bin! And we can also see how you stay fed during the build, with vacuum packed bread rolls.

Seriously, great build thread, keep up the good work.