Quinten Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Thanks for taking the time to write that Bob Unfortunately (for me) the remains of the bolt seem to have 'welded' themselves to the thread, the result of years and years of neglect/maintenance. I too have come to the conclusion that when worst comes to worst, I'd be just be left with an unthreaded hole from which a bolt with a nut on the other side of the hole (at the manifold flange side) and a nut on the exhaust flange side. Not the prettiest, but it would be better than nothing, and with the other 5 bolts holding in the rest of the exhaust manifold, minimal holding forces required. As a side note, I believe the capped bolts where chosen because access to the nuts themselves (if going for the studs+brass nuts) are hard to tighten as they are very close to the exhaust pipes and there is limited space available for socket/spanner... If only I had known/realised at the start it was imperical instead of metric, I would have used the right size hex socket on them; the 5.5 I used was ever so slightly to small. In this instance I *did* have the right tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2rrr Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Give it a good go and see how you get on its easier to do than to write about, but as long as you know the options, its always worth considering them when deciding on a repair path. You still have a few left so all isn't lost. Let us know how you get on. Bob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 After failing miserably with my HSS drill bits I've just picked up some Cobalt drill bits from Toolstation. Hopefully these will at least drill into the bolt. What an incredible grief is this car giving me To some of us, this is pure motoring pleasure--------------------------------away from the TV and non-understanding peoples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Look at that beauty Bought a 5/16th UNC (18) tap set and got to work. Using the 1st tap and the slowly forward, back a little, slowly forward, back a little method as recommended and it left a perfect thread, for the 2nd and 3rd tap to follow. Have also used the taps on the other holes to clean them out a bit and have finally checked one thing off the todo list Now I can concentrate on building it up again and turn my attention to the manifold spacers... They are very rusty brown, and I would like to clean them up and paint them black with a VHT paint. Does anyone have any recommendations for the cleaning stage? A bath of some sort? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAFKARM Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hooray! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisme Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Nice work with the tapping - who says problem solving is not rewarding ! I'd either take a rotary wire brush to those manifold spacers or get them shot blasted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2rrr Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Spot on well done, try and get that daft grin off your face, honestly though care and perseverance worked well. Bob. :d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Advice, time, perseverance, cups of tea, swearing, wife shouting out "are you still messing about with that car?" All gives you a sense of achievement, money saved and a bit more skill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 How about an update? I bought a very nice silencer of Barny and found a local welding place who is able to shape my link pipe in such a way that it will marry up the manifold and silencer. I was asked to provide a cardboard template of both ends to speed up the work (and keep the costs low). Now I am looking at my handy work I am starting to doubt if the silencer is mounted a bit too far out from the body work? You can see how the rolled end sticks out past the width of the car... Am I going to get in trouble for this come MOT time? The bracket could be replaced by a strap, but then I would obviously need a different link pipe again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Bit of a leg twister for passengers, IYSWIM, the other, probably main risk, will be clouding it on kerbs etc when parking. Normally you aim to have the silencer parallel to the main part of the tub, not the tapered front section. I'm not aware of it specifically being an MOT failure though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.RAD Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I think there's a few pics of the exhaust fitted in my gallery Q, as I remember the rolled tip did extend further than the arches *slightly* as we have the narrower fixed arches. It was never an issue and I've only noticed it now it's being discussed! Dave's comment about lining the exhaust parallel to the rear portion of the tub is right but it's quite hard to achieve in reality (the new Simpson system doesn't, but that one did). A shorter tab on the mounting bracket or a freshly drilled hole closer to the can might help you achieve this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Bit of a leg twister for passengers, IYSWIM, the other, probably main risk, will be clouding it on kerbs etc when parking. Normally you aim to have the silencer parallel to the main part of the tub, not the tapered front section. I'm not aware of it specifically being an MOT failure though. Maybe I am confusing things with IVA rules? Or maybe with some rule that applies to tyres not sticking out beyond the wheel arches? I do realise that the further away from the body, the more difficult for passengers, but my wife won't go near it, and my son is just as tall as me, with legs longer than humanly possible, so he probably won't have any issues there I think there's a few pics of the exhaust fitted in my gallery Q, as I remember the rolled tip did extend further than the arches *slightly* as we have the narrower fixed arches. It was never an issue and I've only noticed it now it's being discussed! Dave's comment about lining the exhaust parallel to the rear portion of the tub is right but it's quite hard to achieve in reality (the new Simpson system doesn't, but that one did). A shorter tab on the mounting bracket or a freshly drilled hole closer to the can might help you achieve this. Just had a browse and found a picture. It was quite far from your bodywork too. Your comment about the tab on the bracket had me looking at another picture a bit closer and I think I can safely trim a bit of the tab and re-drill the hole, getting it more than a cm closer to the bodywork 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I think there's a few pics of the exhaust fitted in my gallery Q, as I remember the rolled tip did extend further than the arches *slightly* as we have the narrower fixed arches. It was never an issue and I've only noticed it now it's being discussed! Dave's comment about lining the exhaust parallel to the rear portion of the tub is right but it's quite hard to achieve in reality (the new Simpson system doesn't, but that one did). A shorter tab on the mounting bracket or a freshly drilled hole closer to the can might help you achieve this. Yeah, in reality, especially with a long silencer, you end up being somewhere in between. The main thing I would try and avoid is having the body of the silencer outside the wheel arches, IYSWIM, it's the lowest part, and the bit that becomes vulnerable to getting bashed on pavements etc. The tip, being that bit higher, is usually slightly less vulnerable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 I think the body of the silencer is just about inside the wheelarch to wheelarch virtual line. I'm going to follow Barny's advice and drill another mounting hole on the bracket, as this is simply the easiest thing to start with. If that's not enough, I will discuss with the welding shop to see if they can fabricate a small tab instead. Should be easy for them I can't find any shops selling exhaust band straps anywhere in Northants, otherwise I would have picked one up instead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosKev Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I think the silencer should be slightly further back, then mounted level with side of tub, then the link pipe made to match them up. Looking at it I think you've tried to line up the silencer with the manifold, rather than position the silencer better and then get link pipe to match. You are correct about MOT, there is something regarding how far out an exhaust can be, but I don't think yours is that far tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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