Bow1build Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 i was driving it the first night in crocs and the where huge but i had to drive it ......i ve got my driving shoes in the passanger seat at all times now including the ipod with noise canceling ear phones....please excuse my spelling as im thick and english grammer s not my strong point being a sheep ****** taffy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bow1build Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 What a lovely day in the car today , what does everyone else set the nitron to on the bumpy roads around here , the rear is very planted and squats nicely as you floor it but as I m a novice driver in these cars I tend to ease off on the corners but just wonder how many clicks is the norm? I only had 1 guy who floored it as I went to over take on a straight in a seat vxr type car . Only 75 miles today as my back s been playing up so had pins n needles in my left arm so just went home when I couldn't take any more. I can't wait to do a track day in it just to really open it up and I have to say if anyone else has doubts about the 4.1 diff ratio I say that every gear is usable and first and second are fine because I read all the stuff on the forum after I had bought the cwp that it's not the best setup but it have to say if your using the Honda 6 speed box it's a perfect match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 have to agree... I do think that on an extreme set up with supercharger like yours you have more options than the rest- You can afford to move to a 3,92 or even 3,62 if you want, as you have the torque to pull in any gear you like... but for the 99.9% running a standard engine s2000, the 4.1 is def, the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bow1build Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 I m no expert speed freak and it seems that you know all the ratios for the Honda s2000 but the difference from 3.92 to 4.1 In my opinion is Hardly noticeable it's more to do with the 6 speed gearbox which handles all the torque which is why I uprated the first and second gear to brand new oem facelift model gears and the carbon fibre synchromesh and changed every bearing and seal to new oem Honda parts . I would also add that the first 3 gears handle as well as the LSD setup and weather it's been reset and uprated. Again speed freak I think your knowledge about these cars surpass me as I m a novice self taught mechanic with basic skill and I just went with what I felt seemed right like fitting the light weight flywheel and uprated pressure clutch plate which give a really easy clutch and Is really easy to drive in traffic , junctions and general starting off , I m looking forward to building the next one after surgery and recovery at least I ll have something to look forward too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 no mate Im no expert just going off experience with mine. I wasn't dissing yours though in any way. in fact the opposite, I think that with your setup, with the amount of torque you have, you've got more options with regards to final drive ratios.... As you've already got your diff sorted, you need to take this ratio into consideration when looking at gearboxes- if youre running say a sequential box with 1.1 final gear, then it might be that your top speed with a 4.1 will be too little... especially the rate that youll be progressing past 100mph ;-) the Honda box is a strong unit, and will take the power that we can throw at it comfortably- when you get up to 500-600hp then its going to struggle, but I cant imagine this happening in a westy!!!! it really depends what you want to do with the car, as to what ratios/gearbox you require--- if its an all out track car, then the sequential box is a must I would say... if its a road car/track car, then perhaps the std box will do..... when you look at some online gear calculators you can get an idea of how the ratios relate to the gear speeds- the Honda ratios really aren't bad- its just that for our light cars we can easily get away with very long first gears- the Hondas isn't long enough- having said that, with enough torque (like yours) you can no doubt pull off hard in 2nd and hit over 60mph in that- meaning for track use, you can treat it as a 5 speed box... for road use incl traffic lights you've still got 1st gear- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bow1build Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 I think I need a trackday because I feel that the first gear is right as it is , it pulls well and doesn't feel short to me , I don't think I ll see a track for at least a year but I m now thinking as I have cases to plenty of Honda gearboxes and engines (I don't sell the high mile ones to kit car guys) I think I ll keep the same setup in the next build using a brand new 7 inch rear diff with new quaife case ,quaife ATB helical LSD which is gears rather than a plated LSD so we should have a greater grip and get the power down much earlier out of corners etc, the Honda head is having some head work and maybe hytek stage 3 camshaft s which gave good gains on my fully built Honda engine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 ah you going for NA next time then? assume so... maybe stroker kit to 2.4l, from inline pro? considered it myself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M444TTB Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 How does the 2.2 and 2.4L stroker kits change the 'feel' of these engines? I gather there's a 2.2L engine (not sure what it was in) that is a physically longer block also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 The US later S2000's (AP2 facelift models) have a 2.2 version of the engine; it's got more torque, but less revs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 you can go to 2.4l with the standard block- if you go for the k block you can get to 2.67l (I think), but as you said its 19mm longer/taller, so a no go really in a westy..... the 2.4 l is achieved with a stroker crankshaft, its actually the crankshaft off the k24 Honda engine with the lip that nudges up to the flywheel taken off, to fit... then a shorter rod to give more stroke.... the engine can/should only be revved to max 8200 revs due to the increase in piston speeds (at 7900revs the piston speeds are equivalent to the 9000 from 2l).. without any head work or cams it should get you about 235-245whp, so approx. 280 -300 flywheel hp... with expensive billet cams from inline, and some head work, theres a guy in Greece whose running 300whp with this setup don't forget NA! inline pro have made 400fwhp out of their 2.67l na..... all food for thought- certainly a cheap option if youre looking for 280-300hp, much much cheaper than tuning up a duratec to this level.... for much bigger numbers you need a charger/turbo setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M444TTB Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 I think i'd fancy a 2L with some throttle bodies and the hottest cams you could get away with through the IVA. That must give 280bhp+ at the flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 nah, theres not a lot more gains to be had from the 2l- in fact the brain crower stage 2 and 3 cams don't really gain anything top end, some people have actually lost mid range power, and kept the same top end- to get the most from the cams, you need to have extensive head work done.... not many are up to this, as the head has already had a lot of engineering put into it.... inline pro do all sorts of head packages, but there are frightfully expensive.... the engine on tbs will make about 15 more hp, and gain a lot of throttle response, improving mid range power... but for the cost of the tbs, you could have the stroker kit, and have 280-300fhp- if you've got the dosh have both ;-) It is nice to have the revs tho, so I understand where youre coming from... but I think 8000-8200 could be enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bow1build Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Around 2 weeks ago I had a fully built honda s2000 engine returned back to me from USA where 18 months ago I sent a standard f20c engine out to Larry and Patrick ( Urge designs and Endyn ) They built me a 2.25 fully built motor running custom everything. They have done a serious amount of R&D on only the f20c engine with fully tested and dyno print outs . We went 89mm roller wave pistons, 90.7 crank which gave 8% extra stroke , lighterened and balanced crank knife edged , Darton wet sleeves, head work was where the greatest gains where Made where they welded extra material to get custom pent roof chambers ,uprated duel valvetrain , 7/16 billet connecting rods,hytek stage 3 custom camshafts ,anyway it a huge spec and at 18k dollars , it was bench dynoed out there and it's on utube producing 347bhp so I know first hand how much money is needed to produce 300whp so I know there's no was a n/a honda engine with ITB will get anywhere near 300whp coz it's so well tuned as it is and the only improvement that can be made are cams , head studs to prevent lift when boosting and add a supercharger . All the R&D done on these hytek camshafts and all the other ones proved that if your staying N/A you have to change everything to make gains but if your supercharging you can make great gains with a simple cam change , head studs , and dual valve springs , stroker kits won't get near 300 whp and they only rev upto 6.5 to 7k rpm so you loose the original feel of the 9k revving from the honda engine .And the final work after building the expensive race engine it blew up after just one race a week ago so I would say stay away from bottom end work and sleeving coz it's unreliable and just swap some cams , valve springs and a supercharger it's the cheapest and most reliable way to strokers kits and Darton sleeve these engine coz they don't like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Freak Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 check out geartech 2.4l s2000 on youtube, that is the guys car on the rollers who makes 300whp, you can also follow inlinepros engine thread on s2ki making 408 fly hp I believe... Its obviously easier to make bigger numbers with more capacity- but that does come with the compromise as mentioned, being the lower rev range.... 8000 rpms is the norm with a 2.4l- but this is an appealing setup as you can keep the rest of the engine stock- sleeving the block is very expensive, and can prove to be problematic.. the inline pro kit can be used with stock pistons- meaning that all you need is the crank/rod and bearing kit and minimal machining work for clearance... this will give you ca 285 FLY HP though not anywhere near 300whp!!!.... 18k on the engine ouch!!! lots of bucks- back to supercharger.... if you are supercharging a westy with an s2000 engine, then theres no need to go with other cams---- you've got plenty of power with standard spec- and you wont make a hole load more power with others... how much power do you want to achieve? you could get up to 500 fwhp with a standard engine with high boost/smaller pulley setup and meth injection -not enough???- ps Im very envious of your projects!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bow1build Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 I m sorry but I don't believe anything the yank post it's all wrong with bhs figure that are way out . The built engine was dynoed out there on a bench dyno with no drivetrain drag or anything and they posted the dyno printout at 358 bhp, we get the engine back here in the uk fit it and install the aem Ems v2 they base mapped for us and we got 244whp now it took a further 3 days of mapping and changing the intake setup and final figure was 278whp no where near what the yank company produced that is why I would never believe any bhp figures the show off because there dynos produce 56bhp more than our without any tuning lol. Sorry speed freek I ve done this first hand and used a company on the s2ki uk forum who had all the dyno printouts and technical talk etc and produced an engine that blew up after one race , I say don't touch the engine internals just boost it but add a bit of protection to the head and dual valve springs made of titanium and hytek stage 3 cams for longer duration and lift while boosting only I wouldn't bother if the cars N/A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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