Specific things to look out for when buying?

[User0083]

A few bits from my personal experience and what I've seen from other people.

First and most important is get the V5, check if it's registered correctly, the VIN number is on the chassis, the plates are correct and the engine number matches.

Fortunately I've not heard horror stories on her yet. But know a guy that got a 2.0 blacktop Robin Hood, registered as that, engine was a black painted silvertop 1.8! Numbers didn't match the docs. (Seller claims was like that. Possibly previous to him.) I also know of a guy that obtained a wrecked Robin Hood 2b+ cheap, for parts. It was registered, plates, tax and MOT. He also obtained a Robin Hood Sliding Pillar that was a nearly finished project. Again, cheap. Rather than finishing the car properly he just attached body panels (it was already running) sorted out a couple of things and put tax/plates form other vehicle on it.

Complete death trap, I reported it to police and DVLA. Things like front discs rubbed on lower suspension arms (because they are fixed), so he took an angle grinder to the suspension.

I'm guessing he's not the only one and there could be someone as dodgy as him selling their's.

Only after you have seen V5 and checked all the numbers on engine, vin plate and chassis. Should you start looking at the rest of it.

As others have said on here, ignore age and specification... You'll change whatever you get anyway. Look at the seller, meet at their house and see if the car's kept on a soft bed of rose petals and has it's own security team or the house looks like a scrap car salvage yard and several bits of rusty old car and a house that looks like a drugs den!

Another tip, while I was looking for mine I went to a couple of dealers. They gave me plenty of info and a good starting point. But both the dealers I saw were ok, cars seemed a bit on the steep side and little things flagged up and gut instinct said to walk away. But I looked at a few cars in one location and helped me spot what to look for.

Hope this helps.

[Wile E. Coyote]

Look at the seller, meet at their house and see if the car's kept on a soft bed of rose petals and has it's own security team or the house looks like a scrap car salvage yard and several bits of rusty old car and a house that looks like a drugs den!

 

Presumably he should be buying from the latter, as more time is clearly spent tinkering with cars than on domestic duties? 

[pierscoe1]

 

 

There will be a fair few cars at Curborough in a couple of weeks.

 

What's going on at Curborough in a coupls of weeks? just a club meet/trackday, or something more specific?

got a link to details?  <<<scratch that. just found the thread in the events forum

 

Thanks to everyone else for all those tips, and the link to that FAQ...

having a read now and jotting everything else down :-)

 

As nobody's mentioned otherwise, should I assume (aside from dodgy build issues) that the chassis & suspension as they come from Westfield are solid & reliable, without any known issues?..

It's obviously had a bit of development over the years...

 

edit:

reason I ask, is that I vaguely remember reading something about a cracked chassis rail and front ARB mount a while back...

just found the thing I read, by "chappers" when selling his car on here:

"The car had a crack in the inside edge of the top chassis rail under the bonnet on the drivers side. Only cracked the front edge and not all the way through. Well SteveD has now fixed this for me last week, doing a great job of adding a tapered box section brace that goes all the way back to the diagonal brace coming from the lowermost chassis rail, so there should be no more issues with regard to this. I'll post a piccy when I can, but been shed building the last few days so haven't got around to it. Steve did confirm that he didn't like the inboard front ARB so I plan on removing it and disconnecting a rear dop link to see what it drives like and if I prefer ARBs, then I'll get a Play-Kool front outboard ARB and fit that."

 

 

 

 

Thanks again all :-)

Edited June 1, 2013 by pierscoe1

[AdamR]

Yes, there has been a fairly strong correlation between cars with Westfield inboard front ARBs and cracked mountings I believe. That bar is regarded as being too stiff (from a handling point of view) too, so possibly something to steer clear of.

[pierscoe1]

Yes, there has been a fairly strong correlation between cars with Westfield inboard front ARBs and cracked mountings I believe. That bar is regarded as being too stiff (from a handling point of view) too, so possibly something to steer clear of.

 

is differentiating between them easy?

where to the drop-links attach if the arb is inboard?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Note, the factory now includes the bracing bar with inboard ARB kits,  the link to the fitting instructions for the inboard ARB is here http://www.manikllc.com/manuals/Westfield_Inboard_Anti_Roll_Bar-2008-04-04.pdf

 

That'll give you an idea of what it looks like. The older style outboard ARB uses a wider bar, with drop links at the ends that drop straight down to attach to the lower damper mounts on the bottom wishbones. It's a simpler arrangement without all the bell cranks.

 

While the factory don't make an out board ARB suitable for widetrack front suspension, others such as Playskool do. Playskool's ARB's are also softer - less stiff than the factory alternatives. 

[pierscoe1]

good to know. thanks for the info.

[User0083]

Presumably he should be buying from the latter, as more time is clearly spent tinkering with cars than on domestic duties?

There's a difference...

My garage is pretty much as clean and tidy as the kitchen... Unless the wife's cooking! No matter how big the kitchen and how many surfaces when she makes a sandwich there's not even room to make a cup if tea!!!

I'm sure everyone's garages and projects are pretty tidy round here. I've been to view cars and walked out, said "Hello, I'm sorry but I've just found what I was looking for, but didn't want to leave you waiting for me." Got back in my car and driven off. I've viewed cars that have sweet wrappers and fag packs on the floor... List goes on.

Tinkering and domestic duties are a way of life and attention to detail would be obvious in both!

[brh70]

hello _ i was you last year. after looking usual places , not dealers no added value, i got the car from this site. i refined through the process to factory built - easy to private reg on- and more or less same spec you have detailed

now i have the car i would say go to the top of your budget and add some!! things on my car people comment on - nitron shocks - wide track - quick release.

only one thing might cost you are getting seats of your liking! feel free to ask for more or images etc.

[pierscoe1]

thanks for the input.

 

was there anything you discovered during the search for the right car (or since you've had it) that stood out?

 

your car looks very nice from what I can see in your profile pic.

Edited June 4, 2013 by pierscoe1

[brh70]

windscreen - it will have chips and marks. nearly 300 for new! seats - mines are sport leather but am looking for seats designed for harnesses - ie slots at back - these cost from 500 pair to 2000! performance - when i was looking i wasnt that fussed about bhp etc but am so hlad i stumbled upon the car i got. i think had i got ither car - i was actually closr to buying one on westfield car web site - i would have been disappointed. spider cracks in gel coat - no matter how small you will know they are there and want to fix! seatbelts - unless u ate racing the turn buckle ones are a pain! galf hood essential in uk ! that about it - apart from when u discover tiny ool leak at dipstick i gave a cure - duratec engine!!!

[pierscoe1]

good pointers. thanks for that :-)

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Worth remembering that the windscreen can be reglazed easily enough. Just make sure the frame is OK. Westfield will reglaze a standard (unheated) screen for about £75.

 

Many have done their own, (me included) for anywhere from £20 or so to about £45 or so. (Mine came to £45 plus sticky foam tape, and when that didn't work £12 for a tube of windscreen adhesive). I'll be getting Westfield to do mine next time!

 

On the seat front, the extremely comfortable slotted JK seats can be had from £240 a pair - though start adding the options and the price will go up fast! (Most people probably spend about £480 on a pair of JK's with bases for runners and the five piece upholstery set).

 

If you want something more conventional looking, the factory Sport Turbo seats seem very comfortable on the brief try I've had.

 

As brh70 said, the half hood is an excellent compromise, (provided you have the RAC roll bar), will fit either Westfield body styles, (traditional - ZK, or more modern FW).

 

Alternatively, aeroscreened cars can be great fun. Built right, they're usable in all weathers too, though you'd be best investing in a motorcycle one-piece set of waterproofs if you plan on much wet weather motoring.

 

I ran my car with an aero' for a good six or seven years, that's how I originally built it in fact. (Changed to a windscreen when I eventually got tired of messing about with helmets and stuff out blatting with mates in windscreened cars).

[Wile E. Coyote]

Thing is, a lot of the things mentioned are really a matter of personal preference - for example, I got rid of the original belts in favour of those with aero/turn buckles.  I find that less contortion is needed to get into them AND you can undo them easily with driving gloves on... the only solution if you want to delay the onset of upgradeitus is to get out and see as many cars as you can.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

the only solution if you want to delay the onset of upgradeitus is to get out and see as many cars as you can.

 

Yep, go and see/try as many as you can - club meets are great for this too, as you'll see an endless variation of cars and be able to chat with the owners and find out what different things work for each of us. Somewhere in there, you'll get a better idea of what will suit you.

 

You will most likely want to stamp your own ownership on the car over time. This is part of the fun for many, so don't be put off if you can't find every box ticked in the models you look at. Though I'd try and get the big/expensive things right!