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Found 10 results

  1. Hi guys, my 99 SEiW has the ducted nosecone and ally radiator. Which seems to work ok. however, because of this the engine back itself is completely sealed from the front, top, sides - currently doesn’t even have a cutout for the carbs/airfilter (although I’m going to do this soon) I'm a little concerned that there is no airflow through the engine bay, does anyone have any thoughts/views/experience that may help? It also concerns me that someone has had to fit a battery heatshield at some point (see pic) thanks in advance
  2. Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO

    Radiator Ducting

    Looking to improve the cooling on my 250. Have got honey comb mesh for grill which should improve airflow from ive gleaned from here. Looking to make, and fit ducting, after some advice, and couple of initial questions if yo would be so kind 1. Presume it's not 100% sealed to nose or intercooler (in front of rad in my case), am I correct? 2. Does it need to be long enough to reach into the return of the nose? 3. Any suggestions for materials, was thinking of something like 4mm "Corex" (twin wall plastic sheet). Want to keep it as light as possible, to not overload the radiator mounts. Any other hints, tips or photos would be much appreciated. This is my intercooler/radiator setup. Thanks for your help. Adge
  3. LiveTheDream84

    Fan Problem

    Hi fellas, I am having overheating problems with my Westfield SE. I have disconnected the fan temperature cooling switch before running a wire across the two connections, the fan powers up and runs consistently with no issues so I believe the fan is functioning correctly. I ordered a new fan temp switch (88c / 79c) and fitted this morning but the problem is still there, I ran the car for 15 minutes or so and the temperature steadily rose to 105c without the fan switching on. Do any of you have any advice on where I should be looking next? I would rather not connect the fan directly to a switch on the dash if possible, although the car is starting to leak oil once temps get above 100c so thats' what i will do in the short term.
  4. Tommygun

    More seight overheating

    Hello again, cars back from V8 developments and running beautifully......apart from... on the motorway, engine temp gauge (sensor is just before the rad) goes from 80 ish normal operating temp around town and spirited driving, to 65/70deg que 5-10mins later the needle jumping up to 110/120 and venting. rad is mounted to the chassis, filling the nose cone and is massively efficient. after driving from Lincoln to Macclesfield via snake pass I think the thermostat is to blame. shuts when temp is too low and the water in the jacket then boils, que temp needle going haywire and venting as the thermostat is forced open. any problems removing the thermostat and putting it squarely in the bin? Any other potential things I've missed, we reprimed and filled all hoses and rad with a leather man at Doncaster Morrisons services at 7pm last night, that seemed to help, but we avoided motorways after that point so engine temp was up anyway. cheers in advance
  5. Badger56

    Seight Air Lock

    Hi All, does anyone have any advice for removing or reducing an airlock in the cooling system on a Seight ? mine gets pretty hot (about 100 - 110) then it's fine at about steady 80 odd, the top hose (from the thermostat) is almost empty as its the highest point and although I'm obviously getting some flow (the radiator gets hot) there is definately air in there. Any advice would be welcome. Cheers Dave PS the Thermostat is a 74 degree one.
  6. Hi all, I've searched the forums to no avail, trying to add a thermostatic switch to my Seight as it just has a manual one at the moment. I have the following : http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/adjustable-fan-controller-thermostat and I'm not sure which wire goes where, from the fan I have a red & a black wire, finding a suitable connection to disconnect I've found that with the switch on they are both live, I assume there is a relay involved somewhere and I've tested the circuit before this i.e. on the fan side in the engine bay. I could do this by trial & error but if anyone has a more scientific method I'd be grateful for a pointer. By the way, I can highly recommend "car builder solutions" as a web site, they appear to have anything you could possibly want. Cheers Dave

    Coolant pipes - Sport 1.6 sigma

    Hi - Currently feel I am the guy that's not building an S2000 or Special I am building a sigma engined Sport with ZK body - up to date technical info is a bit sparse - Can anyone advise or send me some pic's of the alloy coolant pipe positions on the left hand side of the engine please, the 1 from the expansion tank on the scuttle, how it routes, and the 1 from back of the engine to water pump Thanks Pete
  8. Hi Chaps, Engine upgrade means I have a few bits to let go. Complete Ford 1.6 CVH engine, October 1988, as lean burn was post 86 I'd say it is lean burn. The cam is Burton BFX 2359. Including twin 40 DCOE carbs and manifold, fast road cam, setup to the engine, alternator plus mounting bracket. Flywheel and clutch to fit a type 9 gearbox. I've done about 3000 miles with it, since it was fitted into my Westfield over a the years. £500ono (Collection from Margate can be brought up to Epsom for £40) Sold Cooling pipes for the 1.6 CVH, £40 + p&p or collection from Epsom. Pipercross air filter, back plate and fixings, band new £50 + p&p or collection from Epsom. Sold Twin 40 DCNF carbs with manifold, never used these, and sat silently on a shelf. £250ono + p&p or collection from Epsom More to list soon. Cheers, AnDy
  9. simon.white

    Cooling (S2000)

    Hello all, Just come back from Le Mans with the MegaS2000 and it was a brilliant trip - amazed by how comfortable I felt getting out of the car on what has been by far my longest drive in it, noise wasn't too bad, MPG was great, amazing. One thing that the trip did underscore for me, which has been bothering me for a while, is the car's ability to keep cool in stationary or slow-moving traffic. Once you get it up to 30mph+ it'll run all day long at about 85 degrees but the queue for the chunnel saw it weeing itself in front of UK passport control and needing to be cooled down behind the border force's little hut! (they couldn't have been more pleasant, by the way). About 10 minutes of stop/start traffic seems to be enough to get it up to 120+ degrees. Does this match other people's experience? I've been thinking about ways of improving the cooling and so far have: 1) Bigger water reservoir (will this really help?) 2) Better ducting around nose cone (but I don't imagine this will help when stationary) 3) Keep standard rad, upgrade fan 4) Radtec rad and fan (do I want the polo item, or can/should I look to fit one of their other options?) 5) Ask the factory what they do to the supercharged MegaS2000s, as AFAIK they have additional cooling Is there something I've missed? Has anyone else had success in getting stable temps in stop/start traffic, or is this just something we have to work around? Car is standard (as in: factory built) MegaS2000 with no modifications as yet...
  10. Andy Banks

    Help... Heater Removal & Water Rails

    Note: Corrections added as I learn from others Oh great and wise ones... A little help please. Post RAF Wittering, I have sprung a leak! The hole has appeared just after the weld on the thinner water pipe that comes from the thermo and the heater at point A on the diagram. I could repair but I suspect it will be an ongoing adventure as it's so close to the welded joint A-F-G. So... I am going aeroscreen, plus I never use the heater anyway so I want to get rid. Engine is Dunnell Zetec 2.0l on TBs with what I believe is the Dunnell RMP1940 Cooling System. That leaves me with questions then... I tried to map out the pipe work as below: What I'd like to know is: Can I remove all of the red pipework and Plug C, G and B? Plug B and connect C to G? [*]Should I only remove the heater and connect D to E? [*]What does A to B do? Thanks very much.
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