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Brand new Zetec inlet manifold for carbs or TB’s; this is the shallow (65mm deep) item suitable for kit cars. Port openings are 45mm wide and still showing original casting, so could happily be ported/polished if need be. As always, change of direction means it’s no longer required! £100 plus postage/fees, or collection can be arranged from Essex or nr. Cambridge.
I have a new Stage 3 Scholar Engines built 1650 Crossflow, which has covered 2,000 miles. Originally fitted with a 32/36 DFV it ran out of power in 5th at 4000 rpm, which with a 1:3.54 diff on public roads is above the legal limit. I wanted to go on a few track days and have since fitted 4 of 38mm Keihins from a CBR900RR using the Danst inlet Manifold and am experiencing the same issue. I have an AFR gauge on the dashboard and when I fit small jets (140) it runs lean, and large jets (150) makes it runs really rich, which improves top end power slightly but then it is so rich it stumbles off tick-over and still lacks in power over 4,000 rpm in 5th. I have altered the needle heights to all positions and fitted bigger idle jets, etc. The acceleration in gears 1-2-3 is brilliant and it pulls like a train in 4th I checked the new Accuspark distributor, fitted new cap and rotor arm. I have altered the static timing from 8-24 degrees and set it to get the best tick-over, but no combination of timing/jetting/needle heights seems to get over the problem of the power simply "dropping off a cliff" over 4,000 rpm in 5th, unless it is running so rich (9 AFR) that it creates a misfire off idle and covers the back of the car in black soot! At 4,000rpm in 5th the engine doesn't misfire, the power simply drops smoothly away until about 3500rpm. My aim with the Westie was to keep it all "Old Skool" without any computers, but I am thinking of replacing the new Accuspark distributor with a programmable Nodiz ECU? Please, does anyone have any ideas?
Hi All, I'm a bit stuck and need some help. Finally put my engine back together after spinning a bearing last May and I got it in the car over the weekend. After a few fuel pipe replacements, 3 goes at sealing the cooling system and an over night charge of the battery I was ready to fire it up. I cranked it over on the starter with fuel pump off and plugs out to get the oil round the system, all good so far. Plugs in, fuel pump on, tried starting, cranked (with what sounded like compression) but no firing at all. After a few more short tries I got pops/bangs from the exhaust, since then i've also had a few pops (and some slight smoke) from the carb side too. I've removed all 4 spark plugs (which are new) and tested for spark on crank, that looked good. I've also tried the old ones back in too. Am I ok to assume that fuel is getting through the carbs because of the popping on the exhaust side? I've got a new battery coming tomorrow also as i'm not sure this one is all that great, after just a few cranks the voltage drop is down to 12.7v from 13.7v when off the charger. Any thing else I can check?
Hi All! Fairly new member to the forum, chances are I've posted this in the wrong section, so apologies in advance for that. I've bought myself a westfield, built in the early 90s with a 1.6 ford cvh from 1985. It's running twin dellorto DHLA(H) 40s and consumes fuel like it's going out of fashion. I've changed the distributor cap and ignition leads and pulled out the spark plugs - they're covered in the classic indication of over-fueling - black soot. It's also running somewhere in the region of 20mpg, which I think is a little low. Now there's certain things I'll faff about with on the car, but the carbs aren't one of them, so I'm looking for someone who can tune/balance/adjust my carbs - I need my fuel bill to go down! Looking for suggestions from the wise people on the forum of where I could take the car to have them setup properly. Preferably located around the Nottingham area. Thanks for your help! Steve.