Norman Verona Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 NO not that dash thread. THIS IS MINE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Algar - Competition Secretary Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Very nice Norman, as an aside how to do you get on with the open top wheel. The MSA won;t allow them and I worry that if you feed the wheel through your hands it would suddenly not be there. Or do you find that you get used to it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 I have a quick rack and never have to remove my hands from the 10 to 2 position, other than for parking. If I had a normal geared rack it wouldn't work as, you're right, I'd have to feed the wheel through my hands. There are another two dials to the left of the black oil temperature gauge. Volts and Fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 I can remember from another thread your (very good) reasoning for the dials being like that, but it would do my OCD head in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEN99W Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 I recall running a Caterham r400 for a week. With its peaky engine and 6 speed box it required constant gear changing to the degree I thought that three quarters of the steering wheel was unnecessary weight. With the quick rack it only needed the two o'clock bit... Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FILFAN Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Unlucky time norman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Going to change over Christmas as I fit the heater, but this is how it looks at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User0083 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Mine's pretty much stock... Other than silver horn button bottom right (soon to be flasher button for headlights, when horn move to steering wheel button), halo button/light that just looks good, quick release mountney m range wheel and blue LED lights. But I am looking for a carbon dash. Where I would have layout the same anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 Filfan, It wasn't set up to be at that time. I've just looked and the file says created: 30 September 2009, 13:24:16. So either the speedo or the camera were wrong, maybe both. Lucky Just as well I'm not superstitious. Gadgetman, that looks simple and neat. I know mine looks a mess but it was designed (it was designed and not sneezed out) to be practical. I prefer analogue dials as you only have to glance, not "read" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User0083 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 I agree with Norman, makes a change, I prefer analogue dials. You get used to where they should be in your field of vision and is one's not right it's noticed straight away and at night my needles are really obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User0083 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Oh, how easy is it to cut the holes in a carbon dash? I'm worried about making a hash of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 I made paper templates, sellotaped the paper to the blank dash and then drilled. I drilled the dial holes undersize and then filed to the correct diameter. The original speedo was oblong (SPA) and a perfect slot was cut. You can just see the small "panel" that covers the slot to which the Sigma bike speedo is attached. Just remember to leave room for the bezels of the dials and switches. I've used Velcro to attache the dash to the chassis tube. The wiring is all on multiplugs. The whole dash, complete, can be removed in about 20 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User0083 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Cheers, I was planning on cutting paper templates, blu tack in position to see how they looked and if they fit. Then once I have the plan, measure, mark, check, measure, check, measure, check, check, check... Take a deep breath and screw it up! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 dare not show mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Use the type of dial/gauge you like the look of, simple as that. You don't have to justify/find reasons to support the decision, you're among friends! I like analogue gauges too, would love to do an analogue based Stack dash at some point. (Using the individual gauges, not the all in one thing) FWIW, if any of the aux sensor inputs goes outside the range that I have specified, the Dash fires a warning at me telling me which etc. Whereas "on track" you only see the gauges when your eye sweeps them. The arguments go both ways! As I say, fit what you like the look of and works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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