Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 my self cancelling ones use a push button. press for one second and i think you get 3 flashes, 2 seconds its 5 flashes, and 3 seconds they stay on till you press again. tbh this needs to be more. i'm forever pressing the button so I would say your 12 flashes is probably about right. but if I read it right it will be doing 2 flashes per second which seems a bit fast. Hi Dom, the flash rate will be unaffected as it will fit with the standard flasher unit. My suggestion is to have a total (minimum) flash duration of 12s, but this will extend as necessary with the brake pressed and then allow 6s from last time the brake was on. Quote
dombanks Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 ah i see..... good idea. like i said with mine im constantly having to press the button especially in traffic or at lights. it just means i end up indicating really late sometimes. so good idea Quote
Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Finished the PCB, fingers crossed I didn't make any mistakes... I got the size down to 50 x 40mm, so soldering might be a bit of an eye test! Now I have to sit and wait for it to be made 1 Quote
TableLeg Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Finished the PCB, fingers crossed I didn't make any mistakes... I got the size down to 50 x 40mm, so soldering might be a bit of an eye test! Now I have to sit and wait for it to be made Fantastic work Mike Quote
Dodgey Posted September 29, 2015 Posted September 29, 2015 What software are you using? I use PCBWizard (the one Maplins sell) and it's superb, with autorouting (which always needs manual tweaking to get tight layouts) and I'm making lovely two sided PCBs the laser toner way. Your rendering looks interesting, particularly the colour coded vias/sockets. btw, this is a great PCB resource for small runs: https://oshpark.com/ They wait till they've got enough boards for a run from different people then make them as a batch. btw(2) I have Ian Clear's old car, with his original self cancelling indicators. He wasn't that well when I met him a year ago (cancer I believe) so fingers crossed he's still with us. Lovely guy. Quote
Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 I used Fritzing because it's easy to keep a stripboard and PCB design linked together and works well for an 'occasional user' like me. The rendering of the Gerber file is done with ZofzPCB free software. Thanks for the fab house recommendation - this time I used iteadstudio.com with DHL delivery - 7 days from China - amazing! time to get soldering: Quote
Dodgey Posted October 7, 2015 Posted October 7, 2015 Ahh thanks. I use Fritzing for proto boards for arduino projects when I want to publish instructables. Didn't realise it had PCB capabilities. The rendered looks interesting. Have fun with the soldering - that's the satisfying part on a well designed PCB. :-) Cheers Quote
Formy Posted October 9, 2015 Posted October 9, 2015 Interested in this too. My WF one gave up working a while ago so i'm back to basic also Quote
Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I'm hoping to get approval to sell a few cheaply to club members either pre-soldered or as a kit with a pre-programmed chip, in return for some honest feedback for any possible improvement. I just need a few weeks for testing first. 1 Quote
Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 Update: here's what the kit of bits would look like: and here's how it ends up looking: Once I have the chip programmed and dip switches set, I'll probably just cover the whole thing in heatshrink like an RC model speed controller - that should be best for weight and heat Dean, this will be yours when I've finished it... 1 Quote
Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted October 15, 2015 Posted October 15, 2015 I found that even driving the 47W load of standard bulbs, the MOSFETS were barely warm to touch, so I've taken the heatsinks off to lay them flat - easier to heatshrink or pot in a case. Dean has LED bulbs, so they won't make any heat at all. This is model #2: Quote
Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted October 19, 2015 Posted October 19, 2015 Another update: Software is just about finished, testing OK so far at a supply voltage range of 6-17V. One dip switch selects between Lucas-style ON/OFF/ON switch or momentary ON push buttons, so it's button upgrade-proof... The other dip switch chooses between 2 alternate cancelling times. So far, I've used a traditional hazard relay - will test next with a solid state LED compatible type, but shouldn't be a problem... 5 Quote
Kit Car Electronics and Essex AO Posted October 20, 2015 Posted October 20, 2015 I don't suppose anybody who is currently changing to push button indicators (with a car that's staying active through winter) would like to test one of these? DE04 will test the Lucas switch version, but I really need some feedback on how good/ bad the push button version is... Only 3 conditions: 1) I get to pester you for feedback 2) You get to keep it if you like it, otherwise I get it back 3) You have to be a WSCC Member Quote
Quinten Posted October 20, 2015 Posted October 20, 2015 If only you had it finished 3 weeks ago when I still had my scuttle off... Now not planning to re-visit that area for a long time (seeing how long it took me to resolve the DRL issue)... Quote
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