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Self Cancelling Indicators


ian clear

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ADBACB1C-C1E6-4645-A585-D26CD0360834_zps

There isn't a pin layout but the wires are 31 left black/ 49a top brown/ 49 right green/ pink.

Also I've had a look at the hazard switch I presume I will have to connect the two indicator wires together & fit diodes is that correct?

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That should be:

 

49 12V input (from hazard switch)

49a flash output

31 ground

 

The ground connection isn't needed on electronic 2 pin relays. You can also get LED relays with 3 pins like this:

 

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/led-flasher-relay but beware, because in some cases the 3rd pin is a warning lamp (P) circuit rather than ground!

 

The problem with the one linked above is the rating - 30W max, which is too low for hazards with your current 2x21W front indicators. If you're planning to change those to LED's then I'd just disconnect them for now and go with the 2 pin 30W relay, otherwise we'll need to find a higher rated one that can also drive full LED indicators later. The relays are expensive and you don't want to buy twice.

 

Earlier in the thread, Dean had to swap from the CBS Blue 180W 'Universal' relay to the orange 30W 'LED' one as the 180W one wouldn't actually flash with full LED indicators plus BlinkStop.

 

There are a few methods for hazards - assuming that you're swapping from a Westfield hazard switch to a Savage-type DPDT, it should be as simple as following these wiring instructions:

 

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/49689-trillogy-savage-hazard-switch-wiring-guide/

 

I have another method using the BlinkStop that doesn't need diodes if you'd prefer:

 

BlinkStopHazard_zpstwrzkvdb.jpg

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Also, beware the pin layouts when changing relays- there is no common standard so you need to match the connectors to the diagram on the actual relay

I found that out the hard way. Burnt out my nice new LED relay just fitting the connectors to the same pins as the old tick/tock one. :cry:

 

Jen

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Thanks Mike that wiring of the hazards looks better I'll get my head round that later & order a relay.

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Thanks Mike that wiring of the hazards looks better I'll get my head round that later & order a relay.

 

You should find the permanent live and ignition live already at the old hazard switch location (not sure of the colours though). My diagram works because the BlinkStop defaults to ON for both indicators when the red power cable is open circuit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I updated the BeamStop wiring diagram to hopefully match 'standard' Westfield wiring (if there really is such a thing!) - maybe a little clearer than before:

 

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/blog/13/entry-280-self-cancelling-indicator-blinkstop/

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I have some PCB's left over, so if anyone wants one, just let me know - although anyone sensible is probably avoiding their cold garage at the moment :)

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Has anyone else successfully fitted and tested their box? I think my instructions may not be clear enough as the 'helpline' has been working overtime :( 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got to the re-wiring stage of the winter upgrades and installed my blinkstop.  In keeping with previous upgrades I kept the original Westfield loom unmodified and made the blinkstop match it.  Took about an hour to velcro in the unit, cut the cables to length and crimp a selection of male and female spade connectors and test it - worked 1st time - many thanks Mike.

 

I haven't connected up the brake light - is there an easy way to get at it under the dash or do I need to route a wire up from the engine bay?

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Well done, Jon! I have a top-mounted pedal box with a plunger brake light switch easily accessible, but if you have a bottom mounted hydraulic switch I suspect the wire is bundled in as it passes through to the trans tunnel. In which case, a new wire straight from the switch may be the easiest way...

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As Mike said I just ran a new wire from the switch, didn't want to mess about with the wiring in the tunnel.

Andy

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Well done, Jon! I have a top-mounted pedal box with a plunger brake light switch easily accessible, but if you have a bottom mounted hydraulic switch I suspect the wire is bundled in as it passes through to the trans tunnel. In which case, a new wire straight from the switch may be the easiest way...

 

 

As Mike said I just ran a new wire from the switch, didn't want to mess about with the wiring in the tunnel.

Andy

 

Switch it is then -should have thought about it when I had the engine and gearbox out........................................dooh!

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Mike

Blinkstop fitted and tested, worked first time brake wire connected working all ok

Good bit of kit,

Top marks

Regards

Rich

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