markcoopers Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have no idea what the options are from the factory these days, but you asked what would be a good upgrade to get the best from the car from the off. Well i would consider the option to install a LSD and a close ratio version of the gearbox. No need to go mad here in a road car, a BGH heady duty with long 1st Type 9 would be the ticket. I would also suggest building with weight in mind as weight is the killer, so perhaps a gell type battery from the start rather than a lead acid conventional type. Alloy steering rack mounts over std, an alloy rad if it ws originally not to have one. Alloy hubs and uprights, well hubs specifically. Alloy 4 pot brakes are perhaps not needed in a road car, but weight wise they are a big win, so again these might be good ideas to think about. Also if building new, i would be tempted by a 5 point harnes from the off, and one with reverse pull lap belts. THese have the strapps pull to the centre to tighten rather than away from the centre. The thinking here is that they are far far easier to adjust when in the car rather than trying to adjust by pulling a strap past you A***. Also a braced roll protection bar....bit anal of me, but i just find it hard to endorse a standard un braced roll bar. I would leave the engine as STD, as upping cams and heads also means re mapping and in many cases new correct injectors and in some cases better fuel pumps etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Certainly I went for upgraded brakes as I wasn't impressed with the standard ones. Maybe I'm just too used to servo assistance. Figured brakes first, more power later. Also went for braced roll bar. The standard one is only held on with two 12mm? bolts and looks too low. If you're planning a heater, I would go for a standard screen rather than heated, as the heated ones are not so well finished. You do need demisting for IVA though hence the heated screens. I also went for raceline sump as the value of the westfield sump was deducted, so it made sense to do it now rather than later. The factory are really good about changing spec though. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainSensible Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I drove a zetec with the "Ford" injection set up For what it's worth the extra universal joints required to get the steering column round the injection manifold made the steering feel unconnected and mushy The steering feel with jenveys and a simple straight column without the extra joint is worth the jenvey money Oh and you get some horses and 4 trumpets masked by a foam filter as well... Bob a job Hello, Apologies for the thread hijack, and apologies for this being my first ever post! I'm just doing my homework as I hope to buy a kit later in the year. I will get up a proper introduction soon, I promise The post above has confused me somewhat. Are you saying that the standard ford throttle body set up means the line of the steering column has to be altered? So as well as extra power the throttle body upgrade means you can just use a straight steering column? If that's the case it would seem like money well spent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I don't know if it's changed in recent years, but six odd years ago when I bought my kit and did the usual factory tour/test drives, you're correct; if you had the Ford OEM injection, the Ford single throttle body and manifold prevented the use of Westfields standard two piece steering column. Instead, from the point the upper column passed into the engine bay, it went via a short centre column section to a support, down near the O/S engine mount, and then had the third column section running forward to the rack. It puts some steep angle changes into the column, I didn't like the way it felt at the time compared to the two piece car I tried, and I've seen a number of complaints on the Boardroom over the years from owners saying much the same. (though I'm sure there have been plenty of owners OK with it, then again, plenty of owners never seem to get the cars geo properly set up either!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Mines a three piece with standard blacktop. There was no mention of different columns when I was discussing options with the factory, altough I remember something about it regarding IVA. Can't remember the details though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainSensible Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Thanks for the siwft responses! So am I correct in saying that if you go for the throttle body upgrade you can also have Westfield's standard two piece steering column? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Bobbleton Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Yes that's why I went straight for throttle bodies The factory standard injection steering set up wasn't as crisp as my old Westfield It was a no brainer for me, as I would have upgraded in the future to throttle bodies anyway My idea was : standard engine, throttle bodies, exhaust with no cat Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I did not know that. Given that I'll probably try to up the power in a couple of years I might have just done it now had I known. Anyway steering column is in now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainSensible Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Got it, thanks for confirming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeb_444 Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 28 days to go until we get our kit ! A lot like waiting fro christmas when you were a kid !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeb_444 Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 For what it is worth we have started a build blog. I do not have the skills to emulate some of the very pro blogs on the net but enjoy taking the xxxx out of ourselves when we drop a clanger ! http://iomwestfield.blogspot.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Nice blog, i'm looking forward to keeping up with progress. The garage that checked my geo, brakes and emissions was surprised at the use of steel brake lines, but I couldn't enlighten him. Enjoy, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeb_444 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Thanks Doug, I may replace more of the brake lines or indeed the whole lot with copper/nickel, depends on how many I ruin in forming ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonjh1964 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Only a newby myself but I've spent a bit of time considering the upgrade path for a 2.0L Blacktop Zetec from what I've gleened from WSSC and wider research: The Zetec was a joint development between Ford and Yamaha, is well built (tolerances/bore finish etc) and has some good design features which make it a good choice for a Westfield (all Westfield's factory drift cars have Zetecs) - one downside is that the block is iron and therefore it's 20-30 kgs heavier than an all alloy Duratec. Firstly you have to get a new sump as the Zetec was designed to be fitted as a transverse engine for FWD and you need baffling for a RWD and also a lower profile because of ground clearance - Westfield engines get these changes as standard. Basic Engine ~ 150 bhp - reasonable power for a first Westie especially if, like me, you've been forced to drive FWD cars for most of you life. Throttle Bodies ~ 170 bhp - more power and you get a steering column with a single UJ (experienced Westie drivers merit this) but Westfield are considering making the 2 UJ Steering Column standard due to adverse IVAs - cost from £1000 to £1500 At this point you have to upgrade the bottom of the engine with ARP Big End Bolts - cost from £60 (if you DIY) probably a couple of £100 to have it done. Now you can look at the head to with new cams and opened up/polished ports - ~190 to 200 bhp - cost £500 to ~£1500 You can then look at super or turbo charging ~220 bhp - cost ~£2000 but by this time you would have probably better off choosing a Duratec!!!! (OMEX ECU will need remapping for each upgrade and they'll provide baseline maps for each of the upgrades) Obviously power is only part of the performance argument and it might be more effective (not only cost) to consider alternative options like weight reduction (cheapest is usually the driver), brakes or suspension Hope this helps and happy for others to correct/perfect (not that they'll need to be asked!), as I said I'm still a newby - FWIW I went straight for TBs and plan to fit ARP bolts before installing the engine and also the Westfield light weight brake calipers (front & rear). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Gearbox, get a gearbox with more suited ratios and it will feel 30 bhp quicker. LSD diff, one of man's best inventions. It allows you to paint 11's all day, hoon sideways at alconbery or turn it around on the spot in tesco's Carpark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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