5w 30 2.0 Zetec Oil, what's best?

[Lordbenny]

2.0 Zetec with fast road cams. I've been told to use a Fully Synthetic 5w30 oil. What do you recommend. I dont track the car but do drive quite.... spiritedly!

[Stuart]

I use the Motul Ford Specific fully synthetic 5W-30 from Opie Oils.  WSCC discount too (and nothing to do with me)

[ljsanders]

I've used this stuff for the past few years:

.aspx" target="_blank">Motul 8100 Eco-nergy

I've also used it on-track and its been fine.

The best is Motul 300V Race Oil, but it will set you back about 80-90 quid per oil change. For fast road use, its probably a bit of a waste.

[Lordbenny]

So, I've been recommended this:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60169....es.aspx

(A bit pricey!)

This:

.aspx" target="_blank">http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-876-m....il.aspx

And This:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68923....il.aspx

Also this:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60121....30.aspx

(It's a 0w-30 but apparently it doesn't matter!)

Getting a bit is there not a definitive answer?

[adam1330]

I've used Castrol Magnatec in mine since I've had it.

[chris7273]

Dunnell recommends 5w40 for their tuned Zetec...

[Stryder5]

Millers Motorsport 5w40

[AdamR]

^^ That's what I have in (same engine without the uprated cam), and was recommended to me also.

Apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs, but I didn't really understand the nomenclature until recently, and it certainly helps get your head around the differences between the grades.

As far as I understand it:

- The first number and the 'w' refers to the cold weather viscosity (w stands for 'winter', not for 'weight' as I thought for ages!), therefore how much resistance there is to cold cranking. I believe this is more engine-specific than use-specific (as in, how hard you work the engine).

- The second number is the viscosity at 100 degrees C (I think), so for a car that's used hard you often increase that value a little since the oil will be hotter (and therefore thinner) than 'normal' use - hence the 5w40 recommendation for a Zetec that's used hard, instead of the standard 5w30.

Similar example, my Clio is 10w40 for 'normal' use and since it's a track car I run 10w50 for the same reasons above.

(This is all 'as far as I know/have found out' - happy to be corrected where wrong!).

[SootySport]

The correct grade of oil is the most important part and all oils of the same grade who ever makes them should be the same, thats the idea of oil grades in the first place.  People do tend to stick with a familiar brand though.  I don't have any loyalty to any brand as long as it's a reputable brand and the correct grade.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

There's a whole "add on" chemical pack in the oil as well though, and that does vary greatly from brand to brand. For example, I find the "detergent" element of the Silkolene Pro Race oils is superb compared to many of the others I've tried.

[stephenh]

If it isn't for track use then I wouldn't recommend using a proper competition oil, for 2 reasons. First, competition oils tend to be more expensive, but with no advantage for road use. Secondly, competition cars tend to have frequent oil changes, for obvious reasons, so they are not likely to have such good detergent properties as most good quality road use oils have.

Just choose your favourite premium brand, whether that is Shell, or BP, or whatever. Then use the correct grade for your engine.

[RedditchJay]

i always go for light brown oil.....  LOL.....

seriously... I used 5w 40w Fully synthetic in my dunnell 2.0ltr silvertop

[gregboy]

Have used valvoline 5w 30 as recommended by a cosworth technician who has worked on many zetec and duratec engines. Gd for fast road and occasional track and shud cost no more than £50 for annual change !

[pistonbroke]

I always use Motoquip Fully synth , costs me about 18 quid for an oil change inc. filter .

Dunnell Zetec 2ltr  

[Martin Keene]

Providing it is the correct grade and a decent make I wouldn't worry about. The really racy oil grades that are around these days are driven by the ever increasing service life driven by tin tops.

I'd stick to something that is correct oil, but slightly cheaper and change it every year or two.