First Time Builds

[samcooke]

I'll add my agreement.

I had a westfield, wanted to build and was terrified, finally decided to take the plunge (although not on a westfield) and so far, so fairly straightforward.

The car is now loosely on its wheels and engine is on its way. The only thing that really worried me was wiring, but a bit of time studying the relevant Haynes manual does wonders and I'm now reasonably confident...

I'd get the factory to do the ally panelling for you - it's perfectly straightforward but takes an absolute age and is just drilling and riveting so the sense of acheivement isn't great.

Absolute worst case scenario?

You start it and can't [be arsed to] finish.

In which case give it to the factory or plays kool and they will do it for you. No risk at all.

[dern]

The car is now loosely on its wheels and engine is on its way. The only thing that really worried me was wiring, but a bit of time studying the relevant Haynes manual does wonders and I'm now reasonably confident...

Which engine did you decide on in the end?

Mark

[samcooke]

R1 160bhp for £900 against 130bhp for £1000 for a blade - less proven but I drive like a girl anyhow.

[moomin]

Moz,

It's all pretty straightforward stuff. I was no master mechanic when I got mine (nor am I now!, but I got by just fine with a little help from friends and forums.

Have a read through my build diary for another story of a Westfield being born.

moom.

[sedsy]

I would say that if you can measure and mark out, file, operate spanners and screwdrivers, drill holes without breaking a drill bit every 2 holes, sharpen drills, understand basic engineering i guess etc etc.

You should be ok then there is always someone who will help you out, maybe even in your area (visit)

Hope this helps

[dern]

R1 160bhp for £900 against 130bhp for £1000 for a blade - less proven but I drive like a girl anyhow.

Nice choice. Are you going to keep the exup valve? I'd recommend you did if possible as it definitely gives the engine more low down than you'd get if you discard it. It should be a valve in the exhaust controlled by the ecu do should be possible to relocate it in the new down pipes I would have though.

Mark

[AndyC_772]

What about the time it takes to build a car?

I'm thinking of selling my car, probably at the end of next summer, and buying a SEiGHT kit. Although I reckon I should have the mechanical skill to finish the build by then, I'm worried that it'll just take so long that I'll get fed up half way through or my wife will leave me

For those with only modest prior knowledge who have built a car - how long did it take, and how did you keep yourself going through the low points?

[Paul M]

Depends on how much spare time you've got and whether or not you buy all the parts in one go. It took me 13 months to build mine, buying the parts as I could afford them and being self employed and working 6 days a week.

If I did it agian with all the parts from day one I think I could do it in 2 -3 months

[steppenwolf]

For those with only modest prior knowledge who have built a car - how long did it take, and how did you keep yourself going through the low points?

275 hours (very accurately logged   ). This equates to about six months of evenings and weekends - kit arrived in August 1999 and was on a trailer up to Westfield in early January 2000 to have the suspension set up and the engine checked for emissions after 241 hours. SVA at the end of January followed by another 34 hours of fettling, detailing, weather gearing etc. Car was registered and on the road on 1st March 2000.

I kept myself going because I knew the end result would be worth it - and I was not wrong!

Important note:- to do the job in six months requires a supportive wife ( I have one but she's mine, sorry ). I was lucky as Steppenwolfess wanted me to do something to take my mind off work so she was brilliant at encouraging me to complete the task.

[moomin]

Andy,

Got my kit at the end of May last year, and passed SVA in mid-October.  That was working pretty much every weekend and a couple of hours most evenings - I reckon I averaged around 20-25 hours per week on it.  Fortunately (?!?) there was no Mrs Moomin - I had no time for one!

So that's far too many hours in total and I think I worked pretty consistently hard on it, but then I am a little bit of a perfectionist.

Sometimes you lose the will to continue and throw a few spanners out of the garage, but you have to keep going, and it's worth it in the end!  I just forced myself to get out there and get on with it, even when I didn't want to, cos I wanted it finished.

Moom.

Edited to correct dodgy english.

[AndyMoss]

It also depends on what you build and how much you get the factory to do for you .....

Examples :-

- Build a Bike engined car without a windscreen and you don't have to build up the scuttle, wipers, heater etc.

- If the factory fits your aluminium panels, brake pipes, wiring loom etc.

- Bodywork varies - some moulds have bits to make things easier - for example moldings to locate the scuttle, different nose cone moldings etc etc Check exactly what you will get with the factory.

On balance I reckon a basic trackday bike engined car is easier to build than a well finished car engined road car with full screen, interior etc - just my opinion. Another major factor will be if you source parts yourself, buy modules from the factory etc.

You can spend a fair bit of time working out what you need parts wise or reconditioning items yourself but can also get just as good a finished car at a lower cost - what is more valueable time or cash ?

Do you enjoy doing as much of the build as you can yourself or do you want to get on the road as quickley as possible ?

For me a lot of the fun was the build and the sense of achievement of doing everything you can on your own.

In terms of mechanical skills, I am no expert, but have an engineering background ( but electronics not mechanical ) and can use a spanner and a hacksaw. Have played with cars for a while ( mostly the old rusty type ).

In terms of facilities it is do-able in a single garage with basic tools - although budget to buy some more tools along the way.  

I have heard people say they built a car in a matter of months - I spent four years from the point I picked it up to the point it was on the road - however busy job, young family, other hobbies etc will affect your elapsed time.

Also better to think about how to do a task and get it right first time than rush in and end up with a bodge.

[Phil W]

I went the all modules from Westfield route .Picked everything up at the same time  but because I only had a single garage I put a very large tarpaulin down in the dining room and put all the bits in there until I needed them.I then took three weeks off work and the car was MOT'd on the last Friday.Then had to wait 3 monthe for SVA and passed first time even though the alternator died on the way.

[Moz]

Thanks again - I will hopefully be off to the factory in a couple of weeks to find out more.

I've got the options price lists etc and I'm unsure which of the options would be absolutely necessary for my purposes.

I presume the following are (i'm thinking of racing in the 750mc series, RGB class D?):

RAC Spec Rollbar (is this in addition to standard front and rear)

Competition shocks and springs upgrade

4 pt harnesses upgrade

3 piece racing wheels

Dry Sump Kit

Is there any information on the weight of all of the options?.  Presumably I should be looking at carbon upgrades as they are lighter but how does the basic set-up of the car compare against the series minimums (550kgs inc. driver - I am about 60kgs).

I've also read that I should be looking elsewhere for the reverse gearbox and dry sump:

Is there anything else which is best sourced elsewhere from a quality point of view?

Sorry for the stupid questions - I actually left the most stupid ones out...!

**By the way I was planning on buying the Megabusa car kit and swapping things in where necessary. I presume if you chose to use a different reverse gearbox for e.g. they discount that from the kit or do you have to take it anyway?

[Moz]

Sorry I think I meant class A.  It's not a good sign when you don't realise which end of the car the engine goes is it!

That gives a 500kg min weight inc driver.

[Blatman]

RAC Spec Rollbar (is this in addition to standard front and rear)

Er........you'll have front and rear anti roll bars, and an RAC roll (over) bar, so you don't break your neck if you end up inverted........

The three items are unconnected.......

Competition shocks and springs upgrade

Describe accurately what the "upgrade" is, and how much they want. I'll bet you a penny to a pound that we can suggest alternatives that *may* perform better (certainly no worse), and save you some money, and maybe some weight, at the same time.