zvezdochka Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Sorted the oil pressure and can hear fuel pump run and pressurise the header. fairly sure there's a spark. Just won't start. Appears to be no petrol in the cylinder so any thoughts on what the ECU (MBE) is thinking? Everything is connected. Is there a separate fuse for the injectors somewhere or am I missing a vital input? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick M Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 If you can hook up a lap-top to the ECU then try and see what the rpm is registering as when you're cranking it over. If it's erratic or not showing anything then it could be the crank sensor. I found that the crank sensor was a tiny bit too far away and it wasn't sending the right signal to the ECU which wasn't then firing the coil or injectors. Can't remember what the gap is but it's surprisingly small - maybe 0.5mm or something like that. Also, check the cranking voltage. I found that it was dropping to around 10volts when turning the engine over and apparently the ECU likes a little more, especially if the engine is still fresh and a little tight. I ended up using another battery to fire the car up as the original one was getting tired from the previous attempts to start the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu999 Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Have you heard the fuel pump working at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvezdochka Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 Thanks for the suggestions. Yes , fuel pump runs for about 2 secs when I switch on, which I think is correct. How is the crank sensor adjusted? All I can see is a large cross headed screw next to the connector? The battery voltage may be a possible cause. It took several attempts to get the oil pressure up, and I flattened it in the process of trying to start with the plugs replaced, so it's now on charge ready for tomorrow nights episode. If only I didn't have to go to work! I guess it's a process of elimination. Still once it's running all that's left to do is SVA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick M Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 How is the crank sensor adjusted? All I can see is a large cross headed screw next to the connector? How is the sensor mounted ? Is there some form of bracket which holds it near the sensor wheel on the end of the crank ? Can it be tweaked in any way ? Poke some feeler guages in there to measure how big the gap is and let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Yes , fuel pump runs for about 2 secs when I switch on, which I think is correct. This is correct - you will hear the relay trip and then the pump running for between 2 and 3 seconds and then the relay will trip off again. Low voltage could be the problem and reasonably easy to resolve even temporarily with a 'jump start' from another vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DutchWestfield Posted July 4, 2003 Share Posted July 4, 2003 Hi, Did you get it to run in the end ?? I went over the exact same problems as you had, Smiths gaves with swapped connections for power and sensor, and the injectors not opening on the first start... Maybe you engine is brand new as mine is ?? In this case the following might be of your interest: The Dutch Westfield importer told me that the injectors might stick a bit when the engine has been sitting around a while before the first start (as mine did). He uses the following trick with succes on engines with the standard injection system: Poor a little fuel in the inlet manyfold. The vapour of this fuel will help to start the engine, after a while the injectors will start working. Sseems a bit scary trick to me, my engine started after a while, but it took a minute for all injectors too work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvezdochka Posted July 5, 2003 Author Share Posted July 5, 2003 I tried this and engine fired once or twice, but still no fuel from injectors. In fact fuel in inlet manifold caused a back fire into throttle body. Anyone any deas on how to make injectors work? Otherwise I might be tempted towards throttle bodies Except SWMBO is expecting a holiday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busapower2001 Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 It took me something like 2 weeks of mucking about to finally track down my non starting engine to stuck fuel injectors. I pulled them out and applied 12V (having first checked with a multimeter that 12V was rapidly on/off/on etc across the terminals when cranking the engine! ) across the terminals - no audible click. I was appalled at the thought of new injectors (probably 200 quids worth! ) and tried lightly tapping them on their side with a spanner. Reconnected them up to the 12V battery... click Then tried rapidly on and off and each of them clicked away like a cherpy cricket at a WI meeting I put them back into the injection rail and cranked her over again. VROOoom she roared into life first time I now always advise people to firstly check that the injectors aren't stuck if their engine fails to start Mine had been sat quite a while (year and a half or so) bone dry and I am sure the residue from the fuel was the cause for them sticking. Hope you get it going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.Ashworth Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 I too had this problem, but it cost nothing to fix. I spoke to Mark Walker and after a few false leads he asked me for a photo of the connections into the main connector block between the engine loom and the ECU loom. Turned out three of the wires were in the wrong place on the (factory supplied) loom.... It started first time when I moved the connectors. Got to be worth a try before spending loads of dosh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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