zvezdochka Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Currently working through all the set up items; Brakes bled but still soft, but I guess a search will help with ideas for improving that. Checking camber is relatively easy, vertical spirit level alongside wheel and then measuring distance to rim top and bottom, 15 inch wheel, 1 degree = 3mm. Now the question, using string or straight edge or argos laser level I can then measure toe-in, but if i recall correctly front and rear track are different. Any advice on simple check. I can't get it checked professionally until SVA'd and registered. TIA Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sedsy Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Well buddy i think the rear end geometry needs to be set up by a profesional as i think you need to have the rear wheels toeing in and pointing directly to the centre of the front of the car !! Procomp Motorsport are very good at this but if you are far from Brum then you need to look elsewhere!! I can help you out on the brakes though! as mine failed SVA first time with a spongy pedal!! so here is what i did 1 slacken all tension from handbrake 2 adjust master cylinder travel so that pedal is slightly higher than clutch 3 operate foot brake to put rear calliper quadrants into correct position 4 Bleed brakes in standard sequence 5 push pedal down to normal stopping point then ease it down further and chock pedal in possition with piece of wood 6 leave overnight at least 7 re apply handbrake cable tension If you do have further probs then bear in mind that if you have floor mounted pedals the design is not great as the master cylinder is lower than the callipers and the rear callipers were fitted at the top on the sierra so when bleeding you can remove assy complete with disc and position it at top to get any last bits of air out! When i had done the above my brakes were much improved even though i have only done 200miles max on new discs and padds all round, but at SVA they said brakes were very good for this car even compared with factory built. Hope this helps and if anyone wants to add bits i have missed or correct my errors please do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quick_Learner Posted June 13, 2003 Share Posted June 13, 2003 doesnt the book give the measurements for setting up toe in? i used the laser method and i thinks its okay for SVA. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvezdochka Posted June 13, 2003 Author Share Posted June 13, 2003 Thanks. For the toe-in etc I will get it sorted professionally when I can drive somewhere ie post SVA I've now bled the brakes twice and there' still air in there, so tomorrow it's the piece of wood method. Cheers Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimNoble Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 For setting up the front toe, I used the following method to get it approximately set to zero (spec is something like 10 minutes toe out - ie pratically straight!: Get two lengths of straight wood/broom handles. Cable tie them to your wheels horizontally with one end near the back of the wheel (ie pointing forwards). Like this: wheel v O--- ^ wood. You can now calculate toe by measuring the distance between the two lengths of wood at the far end and the near end. When the distance is the same, you have 0 toe. You can use trig to work out what 10' of toe out is One more thing, when adjusting it, roll the car back and forth a bit to make sure the adjustment "settles in". Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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