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How to wire in a push-button starter?


peterrosey

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Would you be able to use the push button starter out of a production car e.g.farrari,renault. Do these have the same terminals

Provided the current rating was suitable then yes, you probably could use one from a production car but to be certain, it wouild be safer to buy a switch that is designed to trip the solenoid directly. Vehicle Wiring Products ( 0115 930 55454 ) do one for £5.04 plus p&p ( part no. GE34 ) - this has screw connections. It doesn't matter what the connections are on the back as you can make up your extension loom to suit - it is the suitability for driving the solenoid directly that matters!

arent most push starters a switch to activate a relay?

Yes they are - the SOLENOID is a relay!

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  • 2 weeks later...
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What rating would the starter button need to be, I found a switch I like, the contact current rating is 250V 10A, will this be ok?

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Yes, that will definitely take all the current you want it to, and far more!

so it wasnt the starter button that set my dash on fire?  

:devil:  :durr:  :devil:

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  • 2 years later...

Hmmmm,  Be carefull regarding the load accross the switch on heavy draw. I'm revamping my starter circuit at the moment and have just bought the most compact push button unit I could find today at the Donny show. Its only rated at 10A though so will take the two starter wires off the switch to a 30A relay, and run a fused 12V  accross the switching circuit on the relay. The push button will be in the gearstick knob, seen it done and it looks pretty cool :blues:  :blues:  :blues:

Bri.

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Steppenwolf, thanks for the instructions.  So clear and so easy.  

To make the connection into the ignition circuit, I used tap connectors for vehicle wiring products.  I have never come across an easier way to connect in to an existing circuit.

tap connectors

Their starter button is good too.

Push button - T721T721 - Starter button

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Tap connectors :0

Hateful things, designed for use when the circuit being used is absolutely inacessible or for the terminally lazy, neither of which is true for a Westfield or their owners...

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They make the connection by having a razor sharp blade slice the cable sheath and contact the copper wire within. Can't be good for the resistance value of either circuit IMHO. I also equally recoil when I see circuits made by burning through the sheath with a soldering iron, and soldering a second cable in. *Shudder*.

Obviously, this is just my opinion. If you're happy, fine. Me, I try to avoid those types of connectors...

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Tap connectors or "scotchlocks" are the worst design feature of cheap electrical circuits. The amount of problems I see in my line of work with electrical faults in trucks caused by drivers tapping into all sort of systems is horrendous ! Take the time and do the job properly in the first place and save yourself all the hassle of problems later on. It makes sense.
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You WILL have problems with these nasty things!!!!!!!!!!

Used to work years ago for a company that delt with electrical systems on cars, the amount of problems with alarms, immobilizers, towbars etc etc that were caused by these things was unbelievable!

Doesn't take long to solder a joint and normally its a job for life!

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I am not keen on Scotch connectors either hence I describe soldering the connections in my article. Soldering does make the job harder but it also keeps the original circuitry intact and unmolested which I find preferable.
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