zvezdochka Posted April 3, 2003 Share Posted April 3, 2003 Before installing the engine and box I carefuuly fitted an AMP connector to the reverse light switch cable. Today whilst under the car I noticed said connector was missing. When found it has clearly been pulled from the cable and the crimped connectors have just slid off. As I have all the light connectors and lambda connector plugs to fit any tips on how to avoid this situation. What's best, try to crimp tighter, solder or both??? TIA Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted April 3, 2003 Share Posted April 3, 2003 I solder all my joints - I HATE crimp joints. If you must use them, buy a very good cantilevered crimp tool - avoid the 'two pieces of flat steel' variety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvezdochka Posted April 3, 2003 Author Share Posted April 3, 2003 If I solder them how do I deal with the metal tabs, bend them before or after soldering, and still bend the longer tabs round the sealing collar? When I crimped the first plug I had real difficulty getting the terminals into the plug, is this normal? TIA again Rick Also thanks Ref info on raceline sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted April 3, 2003 Share Posted April 3, 2003 ive just made a full engine bay harness for injection system etc and i crimped the terminal on first the heated it up and melted a dot of solder over the top which ran into the connnector nicely, then slid it into the block connector or covered with some heat shrink wrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted April 3, 2003 Share Posted April 3, 2003 My soldering procedure is as follows:- 1. I strip the end of the wire, twist it in it's natural lay and tin it with solder. 2. I then insert the tinned cable end into the tab as though I was going to crimp it but instead, use electrician's pliers to fold the tongues over the tinned end and the do the same with the outer sheath tongues 3. Finally, I hold the wire with the terminal pointing upwards and whilst heating the terminal with the soldering iron, I run fresh solder on to the top of the tongue where it melts with the solder on the tinned cable end to form a complete soldered bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windy Posted April 3, 2003 Share Posted April 3, 2003 Only problem with soldering is that it tends to cause fatigue at the end of the terminal where the copper strands are held firmly. Providing you have the proper crimping tool that forms the terminals to grip the insulation and copper strands separately you shouldn't have a problem assembling dry. Use heatshrink afterwards to seal the end and stop the copper "furring" from water / dirt ingress. Hope this helps. Windy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Only problem with soldering is that it tends to cause fatigue at the end of the terminal where the copper strands are held firmly. I guess wherever the solder/grip stops and the bare copper continues will be a weak link. I use soft silicone moulded covers on all my spade connectors and these grip the outer sheath and act as a 'cushion' against vibration. I some areas on non-spade type connectors, I use heat shrink material for the same purpose as it 'spreads the load'. Out of curiosity rather than argument, why do you feel that there is a greater chance of fatigue on a solder joint than on a crimp joint if both types of fit also have an outer sheath pair of tongues to stabilise the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Out of curiosity rather than argument Now there's a caveat I like............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb893 Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Out of curiosity rather than argument, why do you feel that there is a greater chance of fatigue on a solder joint than on a crimp joint if both types of fit also have an outer sheath pair of tongues to stabilise the system? Try this: Tin (Solder) a long (2-3") length of wire - let it cool, then bend it back and forward... count how many cycles until it breaks. Now do the same with a length of un-tinned wire. When I was a Civil Servant all the joints on the equipment I worked on were 'post and wire wrap' (much stronger with a better electrical connection than solder) and any connections that had to be soldered were immobilised, so the joint could not move, but were frowned upon and avoided where possible.... If thats good enough for the Queen its good enough for me If the crip tool is a good one and you use it correctly the joints are as strong as a soldered one with just as good electrical connection and tollerate vibration better. Edit: What the heck is a "crip tool"? This should of course be a crimp tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Out of curiosity rather than argument Now there's a caveat I like............. I'm looking for a career change to the Diplomatic Corps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 I have always used connectors or the good old wire knot tying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Try this: Tin (Solder) a long (2-3") length of wire - let it cool, then bend it back and forward... count how many cycles until it breaks. Now do the same with a length of un-tinned wire. John, knowing that you are a man of honour, I have not tried this test ( not sad enough yet ) but I believe you unreservedly .... HOWEVER, my point is that if the outer sheath is gripped by the rear retaining tongues of the connector, there will be no movement between the sheath tongues and the soldered portion, only movement aft of the rear retaining tongues so solder or crimp should not make a difference in this regard? When I was a Civil Servant all the joints on the equipment I worked on were 'post and wire wrap' (much stronger with a better electrical connection than solder) Excellent method of attaching wire to a static post on a circuit board module but to connectors? John, I look forward to continuing this discussion on Sunday but unless you agree with me by then, the deals off on the trailer Actually guys, I really don't know for certain which is the better method - all I can say is that I have never had a failed solder joint but I have had a couple of failed crimp connections and seen quite a few more when asked to help others fault find car electrical gremlins. I suspect that the key to successful crimping is to use a very good tool as mentioned in my first post. Failing that, S O L D E R I T! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb893 Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Having read all the considered arguments dealing with this subject, I unreservedly agree with anything Stepps says. This stance has nothing to do with said trailer and is based on purely technical reasons. (that good enough Mr. Wolf)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Having read all the concidered arguments dealing with this subject, I unreservedly agee with anything Stepps says. Your typing is getting worse but at least you have seen reason ....... This stance has nothing to do with said trailer and is based on purely technical reasons. Quite right but by coincidence, the trailer deal is now back on .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick A Posted April 5, 2003 Share Posted April 5, 2003 I agree solder them But I once read that they don't use soldered joints on aircraft because of fatigue problems don't know how true this is Something to think about though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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