Damper rate

[adamnreeves]

why the chuff did you buy one then    if you dont know where it goes or what it does  

ps il give you a fiver for it  

Your not being very helpful. If you follow this thread you will see that I was given the advice to fit ARBs. I now that they improve handling but beyond that I haven't a clue. I took safety in that westfield only had one type of ARB available. The seller also list as for Wide body which is that my car is.

[SteveD]

if i said you would look good in clogs would you buy some  

does your fan suck or blow  

[adamnreeves]

if i said you would look good in clogs would you buy some  

does your fan suck or blow  

I would always take fashion advice from someone of your inclination  

My fan sucks as it is located behind the radiator, but what relevance does this have

[SteveD]

My fan sucks as it is located behind the radiator, but what relevance does this have

nowt really just checking   but does it suck have you checked

[TIG Brother]

Steve are you going to suggest turning the fan around to create some 80's F1 style ground effect and suck the car to the floor?

[SteveD]

Steve are you going to suggest turning the fan around to create some 80's F1 style ground effect and suck the car to the floor?

yes  

[TIG Brother]

Photos circulating from my track day. Got some interesting pictures of me on the track. Picture of my nemisis corner where I lost it twice!

Looking at this suspension travel in this picture, no wonder I guess! Ok I took it far too fast but I was surprised at this one.

My car has been corner weighted and damper rate set to something reasonably stiff for road use and occasional track day with advice to add a click or two if I can stand the vibrations. I am using standard westfield, gaz dampers. The front is set at 13 and rear set at 12 in this picture. Standard springs for SEiGHT. No anti-roll bars fitted.

Adam - My Old man says he has seen less lean on a 2CV when it goes round a corner  

[SteveD]

that picture looks better upside down

[TIG Brother]

Adam - my first point of call would be to get that set up looked at, your heights seem to be way out with what you have stated there, i would then look to add some more clicks to the shocks and play about with them,

for road use i am currently set around 15/16 clicks on the rear and 14 on the front, if i was going to the track i would be higher still.

next port of call would be looking at some stiffer springs for track use.

i would say there are simple issues to sort out here first before you go buying ARBs

[adamnreeves]

My fan sucks as it is located behind the radiator, but what relevance does this have

nowt really just checking   but does it suck have you checked

You just being fascious now, you know I have.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Westfield make two types of front anti roll bar; inboard and outboard, the outboard is the more conventional elongated "c" shaped bar, as seen in the parts store. The lever arm sections sit roughly over the pickup points on the wishbones, a drop link then runs from the roll bar arm down to the wishbone bracket. The drop link is attached to the roll bar by a clamp arrangement, so in theory is infinitely variable along the length of the roll bar arm. This allows for fin tuning the set up. In practice, many find the whole bar too stiff for road use, even with the bar set to maximum "soft".

The inboard design has a much shorter roll bar section, that is barely wider IIRC, than the chassis. It then uses bell cranks and links to connect down to the wishbones. The roll bar can be adjusted by moving the link to the bell crank between four or five predrilled holes in the roll bar.

Westfield state that their outboard roll bar isn't compatible with their wide track.

According to a number of posts on here, there are a few mounting issues with the inboard bar.

[adamnreeves]

Adam - my first point of call would be to get that set up looked at, your heights seem to be way out with what you have stated there, i would then look to add some more clicks to the shocks and play about with them,

for road use i am currently set around 15/16 clicks on the rear and 14 on the front, if i was going to the track i would be higher still.

next port of call would be looking at some stiffer springs for track use.

i would say there are simple issues to sort out here first before you go buying ARBs

I am going to call them tomorrow about this. Hadn't realized it was this bad until I measured it.

Based on your clicks I am way down. I presume you are using the gaz ones from the factory, have 24 positions. I am not going to be doing lots of track days but don't what something that looks like a 2cv round corners even if doing silly speeds into corners.

Just noticed you say more clicks on the rear? I was told to keep the rear slightly softer than the front otherwise nasty things will happen!

[pete g]

plays kool do a nice front bar for wide bodied car .and its cheaper.

[TIG Brother]

Adam - my first point of call would be to get that set up looked at, your heights seem to be way out with what you have stated there, i would then look to add some more clicks to the shocks and play about with them,

for road use i am currently set around 15/16 clicks on the rear and 14 on the front, if i was going to the track i would be higher still.

next port of call would be looking at some stiffer springs for track use.

i would say there are simple issues to sort out here first before you go buying ARBs

I am going to call them tomorrow about this. Hadn't realized it was this bad until I measured it.

Based on your clicks I am way down. I presume you are using the gaz ones from the factory, have 24 positions. I am not going to be doing lots of track days but don't what something that looks like a 2cv round corners even if doing silly speeds into corners.

Just noticed you say more clicks on the rear? I was told to keep the rear slightly softer than the front otherwise nasty things will happen!

those click figures should the the other way round,  

[adamnreeves]

Westfield make two types of front anti roll bar; inboard and outboard, the outboard is the more conventional elongated "c" shaped bar, as seen in the parts store. The lever arm sections sit roughly over the pickup points on the wishbones, a drop link then runs from the roll bar arm down to the wishbone bracket. The drop link is attached to the roll bar by a clamp arrangement, so in theory is infinitely variable along the length of the roll bar arm. This allows for fin tuning the set up. In practice, many find the whole bar too stiff for road use, even with the bar set to maximum "soft".

The inboard design has a much shorter roll bar section, that is barely wider IIRC, than the chassis. It then uses bell cranks and links to connect down to the wishbones. The roll bar can be adjusted by moving the link to the bell crank between four or five predrilled holes in the roll bar.

Westfield state that their outboard roll bar isn't compatible with their wide track.

According to a number of posts on here, there are a few mounting issues with the inboard bar.

Thanks Gadetman. I can picture it better now.