stewart pickles Posted July 31, 2010 Posted July 31, 2010 what ya done to get 128 bhp @ wheels out of an 893, the best 893 i had was 110 at wheels and that was with a gas flowed head, most are about 100 @ wheels that was with chris (who now works for cosworth and looks after rubens barrichello's engine) playing with it all day at holeshot racing Quote
stewart pickles Posted August 1, 2010 Posted August 1, 2010 i had all that and a gas flowed head and managed 110 at wheels couldn't see the figure on the video but i think it's very optimistic when the 893 was new the exact figure at the flywheel was 124 bhp see..................... http://www.honda-fireblades.co.uk/specifications.html i have had a few 893/919 blade engines on the dyno at holeshot and like i say 110 was the most i have seen, the standard motors with dynojet kit in were all about 101 at wheels Quote
andyfiggy2002 Posted August 2, 2010 Posted August 2, 2010 it does appear that after clarifying the rolling road figure the drivetrain loss of 18bhp should have been deducted not added, so its actutually got 128bhp at flywheel giving 110 at wheels, thanks for bringing this to my attention Quote
moochofun Posted August 6, 2010 Posted August 6, 2010 As for your question on insurance - mine was exactly the same when I swapped from a blade to a busa lump. I was quite surprised by this as there is a definite performance improvement but hey who am I to argue? Edited to add: The reg/rectifier issue looks to be pretty common. A lot of owners upgrade to a heavier duty item. I took the chance in buying a second hand one off of fleabay and it worked fine - when located into the engine bay and a PC fan stuck on top. I don't use my car on the road much these days but I've been out a few times this summer and am growing to the opinion that the blade was maybe a bit better for road use. The busa just seems too manic but thats probably because I drive about in a big ol X5 most of the time! It does bring a cheeky grin though and I wouldn't swap back to the blade for track/race work... Quote
grahame Posted August 6, 2010 Posted August 6, 2010 I wouldn't run a bike engined car, period. My choice would be a Ford/Vauxhall/Mazda car-engined car. With a car engine, there's so much torque, vast amounts of power and all delivered silently. The car will even have a sensible reversing mechanism, be useable in all the normal domestic situations. You could even leave the engine unit in the original car, there'll then be a roof, heater and window demisters. Sorted. If you must go for a bike engine, there's only one serious choice, the Hayabusa. Everything else is just too small. OK, so there you go, that's the gospel. Alternatively, yes, a bike engined car can be excellent fun. All engines, of any size, will bring a smile to your face. Something about having a sequential gearbox, an F1 soundtrack, all for an affordable amount. I've tried Suzuki GSX-R750, 1000 and 1300; Fireblades 893, 919 and 929; R1's 4V and 5JJ in the Westfield. Of these, the 893, 919 Blade have been reliable - others less so. Most enjoyable has been the GSX-R750, the quickest the GSX-R1000 and the most expensive after destruction, the GSX-R1300. The R1's have been brilliant, just not as much 'fun' to drive, and no, I can't quantify it. Power isn't everything, don't be too focused on the need for several 100's of BHP, there is life below the normal 300bhp of a VX car engine, it's just a bit more frenetic. Hell, I just had the moment of my hobby last weekend, qualifying a 988cc Westfield in a British Sprint Top 12 Runoff!!! (one over the awesome Radicals, etc.). Handling matters too.... Quote
grahame Posted August 6, 2010 Posted August 6, 2010 PS... if you're after a sensibly priced BEC and aren't concerned with cosmetics, carbon and vast power..... I *still* have the Top12 car for sale. No-one seems interested, probably for the aforementioned description (underpowered GRP brick). But seriously, drop me a line if interested. Quote
media116 Posted August 6, 2010 Author Posted August 6, 2010 Hi Grahame, thanks for that. What are you selling? Can you send me details? Unfortunately, I'm not yet permitted by the site to make direct contact with other posters! So please send me an email to: chris@media116.com Quote
Newton Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 Hi I've got a 52 plate Megablade I bought recently, and absolutely love her. I drive her to work weather permitting 70 mile round trip mix of lanes, a roads and motorway and haven't had a serious problem (RGB tried to undo itself but thats normal). It is possible to drive in town you just have to think about it a bit as the engine is easily stalled - I recon it took a good weeks commute to get the hang of the clutch and even now it can catch me out. However if you don't put miles on the car you'll never drive it quickly in competieion, it is just so different, you'll never get a good start and will be way too early on the brakes . Noise yep its noisy but if you're a petrol head its REALLY good noise and I wouldn't say its worse than my old Midget afterall they all need to comply with same noise regs on track. So its doing 6k revs at motorway speed but red lines at ~12 so only just getting into stride. If you're thinking about it you'll never satisfy the itch until you've done it and then you won't want to stop Blade or Busa I can't use the potential of a blade on the road you just can't enter corners committed today there are just too many other road users looking at the birds trees and scenery nobody expects you to arrive as quickly as you will and therefore you're always anticipating what others will do. My advice go for a Blade unless you're seriously into track days or competing 300 bhp/tonnes will whip most things and if you can't you'll sound better Rob Rob Quote
media116 Posted August 18, 2010 Author Posted August 18, 2010 Having now been for rides in a couple of Megablades, I agree whole-heartedly with what you say, Rob. There's now a car that I have my eye on so, hopefully, it's just a matter of dotting the Is and crossing the Ts! javascript:emoticon '' Quote
Newton Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 Be prepared to wait for car with good spec - there are a few around on P/H and fleebay. Don't worry about distance bought mine from over 500miles away and had her transported down wasn't silly money. The nice bits cost alot to put on yourself and people seem to through alot of money at them only to get rid of them within a year or two - you would not believe the value of receipts I have with mine. Rob Quote
Newton Posted August 18, 2010 Posted August 18, 2010 ps see if you can find one with the freelander diff the ratios are better but it was an option - often come with a Quaife slipper Rob Quote
media116 Posted August 18, 2010 Author Posted August 18, 2010 OK Rob, so what would you consider to be the most desirable 'nice bits' to look out for on a Megablade? Quote
Newton Posted August 20, 2010 Posted August 20, 2010 Hi Chris, You need to decide what it is you want the car for - as I've said you can't use the cars full potential on the road and since you're hooked I assume it will end up on the track at some time its just a matter of getting the balance right for you. So if track is your focus then you should be looking to make sure you're well located in the car, make sure you're adequately protected, reduce drag, improve stopping, improve handling, engine protection, engine performance. 1) Location in the car a variety of seats are on the market and you need something that you can get comfortable in however you need to make sure it doesn;t allow you to move excessively so should be looking for a figure hugging bucket type seat which locates both your bum and your shoulders - the complementary equipment which goes with this are normally 4 point harnesses to make sure you stay in the seat. 2) Adequate protection - the MSA don't rate the standard roll bar so why would you risk your neck without roll protection that would be admissible for competition. Various RAC MSA approved type structures are available either as a rear braced hoop or as a full cage. 3) Reducing drag - not the most aerodynic car as I understand it from my sad life reading pages of gumf on here there are probably two main areas of drag; the winscreen and the rear floor pan (or lack of one) so aeroscreens address the first while a "diffuser" addresses the latter (not by acting as a difuser but by stopping the air entering the rear bodywork). Moving on from here half doors also improve air flow, smaller headlights, inboard suspension . 4) Improve stopping - plenty on here about this std setup isn't bad apparently but theres always alloy 4 pot calipers and larger diameter discs. Look at the info on here but I recon the concensus is that you don't need vents in a Mega and you certainly don't need the weight. (I was more surprised how aggressive braking was than how fast the car accelerated - good harnesses req'd . 5) Improve handling - maybe slightly eronious but more expensive dampers tend to give better range of adjustment and better performance. Plenty of wide track cars around and not really in position to comment on the merits mine feels fine. Anti roll bars again something to look into mine doesn't have either and I don't suffer body roll - I think moochofun knows a bit more about setup of these cars. 6) engine protection - blades don't generally have drysump equipment fitted relying instead on baffles and a trick pick up however I've seen a number of cars with accusumps which are an accumulator used to store presurised oil until oil surge starves the engine of its lube then releases it in place of the pump can also be set up to prelube the engine before starting. 7) engine performance - there are a few tuned blade engines around - most people seem to change cars at this point for a bird or a busa. The above are probably in the order I would approach from but others will change priorities to meet own objectives. Mappy hunting. Rob Quote
cosmick Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 With reference to your Megablade/Megabusa enquiry, I live in Polegate and I have a Megabusa. You can come for a ride anytime and i am sure you will like it. I use my car on the road and at tracks and I thoroughly love it. I am a biker as well so high RPM doesn't really bother me. As for comfort, I have driven 350 miles in a day and was absolutely fine with no aches or pains. Reliability wise, Hayabusa's will cover high mileage without problem. Obviously in a car, Clutches can suffer but with the right springs and, importantly clutch action, the gears and clutch will last. I have done much to improve the clutch action as when I bought it, it was impossible to pull away without either stalling it or spinning the wheels. Now I can pull away from idle with no throttle. It really drives very smoothly and I have had many compliments as to how well it runs for a BEC. Come back to me if you want a ride. I will be at the Festival of Transport, Broad Farm this weekend with the car so you can come and paw over it if you like. Cosmick Quote
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