Delboy Posted July 2, 2010 Posted July 2, 2010 From one who has fitted a K20 into a Westie, and supercharged it, Once you've bought your engine, the F20 is a cheaper engine to install. The K20 has a massive fly wheel which needs replacing with a small 10" one which then needs a special starter both of which are available from Ark Racing at about £600 + Vat DMRR do supply bellhousings for both, but the K20 item is a 2 piece billet job! Lovely but £550 + Vat! If your remapping then you need an ECU like the DTA S80 to run the VVT. £900 + Vat They both need dry sumping! So although the cost of a F20 is normally £1k more than a K20, its a cheaper install That said, a bolt on Jackson Super Charger from the USA is around £2k along with a set of low comp pistons for around £400 You can easily find 360bhp! The choice is yours! ....just make sure its a Honda! Quote
SteveH Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 That's a lovely looking installation Derek . What kind of budget would you reckon on to do a Honda conversion then with all the bit's to make it work with a type 9 box? (and how much more with the s/c ? ) QUOTE QUOTE pinto to duratec is a worthwhile upgrade Wash yo' mouth out! Great video Andrew but don't forget the Slug has had it's revenge CLICKY! Quote
Bob Green Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 I'm not one to bang on about BHP as it is not the be all and end all. It’s about how the car feels. Someone (I think was it Mark Cooper, can't be arsed to check back) mentioned the rest of the car can be upgraded, gearbox, suspension etc. That will make a great difference, bigger than you think. However, I think I have seen Derek’s engine installation (Curborough?) and quite frankly, is superb. Forget the usual aftermarket goodies that lead you to believe massive BHP increases, forced induction on a given engine is the way to go unless of course, you have one of these My advice to you is to sort the rest of the car out first. The main issue for you is likely to be taking the bonnet off and not being able to show the perfectly paired gearbox to differential ratios and the honed suspension set up. Just my thoughts. Quote
SteveH Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 Thanks Bob, I agree about the setup and whilst no car that I own is ever going to look as well cared for as Derek's does in that photo, getting it handling just right is the best starting point and I'm not there yet. I'm not seriously looking for more power TBH - just curious how the different options stack up. Quote
Bob Green Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 I'm not seriously looking for more power TBH - just curious how the different options stack up. Yep, good point. Quote
thos Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 @SteveH - I'm the middle of an S2000/F20c install with a Type9 box so can give you a run down of some costs. Engine - got mine for £1750 on ebay, going rate seems to be 2200-2500. They like to include everything - gearbox/inlet/exhaust/alternator/starter/flywheel/wiring/ecu/loom etc. Dry sump - from RED (Race Engine Design), £1200 for pan/pump/pulley. Nice bit of kit. Gives 100mm of clearance compared to wet sump. Bellhousing/Clutch/Flywheel for Type9 - DMRR supplied everything, bellhousing was £370, flywheel £280, twin-plate clutch £332. I already had hydraulic clutch on my Quaife box, so just needed new spacers. Standard clutch is pull type release so thats the reason for the change. RED also do a clutch&flywheel not sure on pricing. ECU - I think it's possible to run the OEM ecu/loom, but I wasnt too interested as I had planned to run throttle bodies. Cheapest ECU option is Emerald, and Dave Walker can provide a crib sheet for making it work with the standard loom. Emerald is about £595. DTA S60 will run do also, for £750, and Omex 710 will also run the engine for about £845. I managed to get a DTA S80 on ebay for good money, but a loom is going to be another few hundred now too. Throttle bodies - £1050 / 1200 or a bit more if you start getting carried away with options from RED - like spacers and machining for bigger bodies. After that it's engine mounts and exhaust fabrication, plus all the miscenallous plumbing stuff. I hope to have mine finished in the next couple of weeks, so I'll get some pics up at that stage. Tom Quote
JeffC Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 all that makes Simon G"s car look b****y good value http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1731823.htm Quote
markcoopers Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 I was one of the comentators Bob. Just comming back to the original post...slightly as i know Honda was not the original question, but for good orders sake and to keep a few feet on the ground as it were. If you are into racing and "need" the BHP then good luck and share with us all the spec and pics etc..... But if it is a road car for the road with some odd track days thrown in, serioulsy ask yourself do you need 300+bhp in a 600Kg car.....can you honestly keep it on the black stuff when driven to get all 300bhp out of it? If you can then so be it i'll rest my piece and hats off to you all as i know that i could not. If you are just going to dabble with 300bhp ocasionally on the track, then why bother? Keep the cash stick with the Zetec and get the best out of it fist.......please. No i don't have a Honda fitted, Yes i would like one, No i will not as i can neither afford it or do it justice. Quote
Paul Aspden Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 well said Mark, for a road car it's probably more fun with less power! Having competed in Micks Hoonda car, I recently went out on the road in a zetec car owner by a friend. This has 170bhp ish and was great fun, but safe. I know that the Honda would have been faster, but also far more likely to get you in to trouble, particularly on damp roads.... Horses for courses, IMHO <200bhp for road use, if you have more its a competition car, and with the best will in the world, comp cars are too harsh for the road, or are a big compromise. Quote
Jumpy07 Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 For all of the reasons listed above.. best bang for buck if you have an existing Zetec is one of these.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-FO....9cb2831 Fitting / upgrade is the same as a Blacktop Zetec.. stick a set of Jenveys on it with a decent ECU to control the CAM.. some ARP bolts... and bobs your uncle.. Mine made 188hp on the rollers with a standard engine... If you want more a set of cams and shims and verniers.. @£1200 and some headwork people have seen 240hp and you dont have to do anything to the bottom end other than arp bolts. As said Duratec will be lighter,... but ST (Duratec), is cheaper to tune and easier to fit for you. See this thread http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin....t=74522 For details of the ST Engine see here Quote
rob iles Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 Another vote for the ST Standard engine with 42mm jenveys and Emerald ecu is a comfortable 180 horses with a better flowing manifold and silencer should see a healthy 190- 200 horses But as said above, a better gearbox, springs ,shocks, suspension set up, would also transform any car for the better so its really whatever floats yer boat And also how deep yer pockets are Quote
dombanks Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 which car does this come from? the st focus/fiesta Quote
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