peterpeter Posted November 10, 2002 Share Posted November 10, 2002 Getting an Rac roll bar for my westy... How easy a job is one to fit Do you need to remove any panels (whta panels??)to get to the fixing points /drill new holes ? Should I get a professional to fit one??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobM Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Fitting the bar itself is a doddle, but sorting out the required slots in the boot box is a bit of a b*******. I cut a small hole then ran a piece of string where the strut was going to go and gradually enlarged. Depending on your seatbelt arrangement you may have another little challenge too - the diagonal brace in the main bar sits very close over the nearside passenger harness mount and on mine I needed to shorten the spacer and eyebolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furtive Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Fitting the bar itself is a doddle It is. I've got a bag of bits and some metal tube. What now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furtive Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Hmm, not easy enough for anyone to tell me then??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Stanton Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Unbolt you old one first and remove boot box or cover. Then bolt in your new RAC one Then bolt in struts, if you have the detachable ones it is very easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furtive Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 I have a bag of bits - nuts and bolts. What goes where? Old one is off. New one is on apart from the stays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purdie Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 I have just discovered that the fuel tank needs to come out to get the bottom bolts through the brackets for the stays. Nevermind it needs to be out for removing the rear wishbones anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobM Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Hmm, not easy enough for anyone to tell me then??? Sorry furtive - I thought you were takeing the p**s! The main bar fastens on via 3 bolts through each fixing plate, my chassis was predrilled for these, but yours of course may well not be. The stays - rose joint and lock nut each end, you'll have 2 short bolts, 2 long bolts, 2 thin steel bushes and 2 'castle' type spacer/bushes. The short bolts and thin bushes go at the top end of the struts, the long bolts and castle spacers at the bottom. The bolts at the bottom will go in without removing the tank, and for me at any rate the bolts didn't quite reach the tank, although they're within a few mm. I needed to use washers inside the brackets at the top to space it out (i.e. between rose joint and bracket). In my case I had problems with the nearside harness eyebolt which caused bad language and wore out a couple of cutting disks for my Black and Decker 'Wizard'. See build site for more info and pics ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobM Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 I have just discovered that the fuel tank needs to come out to get the bottom bolts through the brackets for the stays. Nevermind it needs to be out for removing the rear wishbones anyway. Mine didn't, I just had room to push the bolt in from the outside towards the tank, and fit the washer and nut between bracket and tank. The end of the bolts came close to the tank but were a few mm away. I'm presuming your chassis and tank are the same as mine ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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