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Reconditioning calipers


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Hello,

I obtained a pair of Mk 5 Cortina front calipers and a pair of Sierra rear calipers the other day and they need reconditioning before fitting.

Has anyone done this themselves and how easy (safe?!;)) is it?

I've started on the Cortina ones and managed to remove the pistons after a lot of pumping with foot pump (as recommened by the Haynes manual) and taken out the seals. What else needs to be done except washing out the gunge with meths and reassembling (using new seals)?

The Sierra calipers look more difficult and according the Haynes manual, they should not be dismantled without special Ford tools....true?

Also, is there a better method than using a wire brush to clean the outside of the calipers?

Any advice greatfully received,

Dan.

Oh, yeah nearly forgot - diffs: I've been trying to find a 3.92 diff but the only ones I can find have spline driveshafts, not the bolt-on type. Similary, all the cars I've looked at with rear disc brakes (i.e. bolt-on drive shafts) seem to have 3.36 diffs......aaaaaggghhhh  :angry: Do 3.92's with bolt-on driveshafts exist? Help!  ???

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:)

I successfully reconditioned the front calipers on my SE, They were in a terrible state initialy as they came from a MK III cortina. When reconditioning the calipers it is essential that you thoroughly clean all loose rust (wire brush was fine) from the external and from around the lip of the cylinders where the dust covers fit.

Use fine wire wool on the lip but be carefull not to scratch the bores. inspect the bores, if serious scoring is present you may need to ditch them.

Before re-assembly, ensure the two halves are free from particles, wash out with parafin and blow out with air line (put them in the boot of your car and go to a garage with a tyre air line)

Make sure the mating faces are spotless, then begin re-assembly, I used new seals, dust covers, blead nipples and finished of with a coat of red caliper paint, I also used a smear of silicon grease on reasembly of the pistons to prevent them from binding.

Hope this helps

Stu G

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Dont try to stip the rear calipers the front ones are easy. Leave the rear one to an expert. Or bye recon calipers. You cant take chances with brakes.

You can get 3.92 type b diffs but you will have to look. Better still find a Sierra 4x4 with a 3.62 diff then get a 3.92 diff and have the hole lot built up as one unit with the lsd from the 4x4 if you need a 3.92 diff :t-up:

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Xr4x4 diff and let Phil Stewart of road and race convert it to a 3.92LSD  and he services it at the same time.

Just exchange the brakes its easer and safer and not too costly

you reailise first gear is uselas with a 3.92 and a standard g/box I am saving up for a Tran-x or Quaife at the moment.

Paul.

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you reailise first gear is uselas with a 3.92 and a standard g/box

Yup wheel spin with anything more than about 1/2 throttle in first :D  :D  :0

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Thanks for the replies,

ensure the two halves are free from particles

According to the Haynes manual "...it is important that the two halves of the caliper are not separated under any circumstances..." - paranoia on their part  ;)

Will probably follow advice and exchange rears but simply rebuild fronts (anyone know any good places in Bristol?).

As regards diffs, if 1st gear with a 3.92 is useless, would I be better off just getting a (standard) 3.62 and leaving it at that? (I am trying to keep costs down so was just gonna get a standard diff and stuff it in, maybe upgrade later...)

Cheers,

Dan.

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Yup. You're better off with a 3.62, and if you can get one, get an XR4i (or Capri 2.8i, I think) box, cos they have a longer first gear than the standard Sierra. It ain't much, but every little helps........With a standard Sierra dif, even he 3.36 wouldn't be that bad, although it would make your theoretical top speed interesting. Have a look at (ie download) the gearing programme (program?) from Dave Andrews web site.

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One last question (for today anyway!  :D ):

If the axle code for 3.92 diffs is 'D', what is it for 3.62?

I've seen 'G' but I think that was for 3.36.....  ???

- Dan.

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Stick with the 3.92. Anything else will space the rev drops between gears out too far. Forget wheelspin and first gears being too short. Original Westfields with live axles were recommended to be built with 3.89 diffs for road use. Gearbox ratios can be swapped later on when funds permit to sort the first gear sydrome which unless using the car for motorsport, will not be a problem anyway. Also, the V6 Sierra etc gearboxes with the slightly closer ratio gearboxes will need a spacer between the gearbox and bell housing as they have long input shafts of approx an inch.

John

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and just in case it's not clear, you should speak to Phil Stewart at Road & Race Transmissions based near Sevenoaks in Kent about anything to do with boxes and diffs, tel no is 01959 525105  ;)

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