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Cleggy's Spyder Rebuild 17 07 09


Cleggy the Spyder Man

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  still be lighter than most of yer westies
 

yes but only a third of the power. :p

lewis

sshhh don't tell everyone  :laugh:

oh and a quarter of the power in my case  ;)  :p

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translates to and "the idea for a porsche periskop u boot is not bad for w****r of old as you" according to the internet

:D  :D

Nien nien ! das ist der Mk5 brockwurst cooker unt launcher   :t-up:

Dumkopf  :sheep:

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translates to and "the idea for a porsche periskop u boot is not bad for w****r of old as you" according to the internet

:D  :D

Nien nien ! das ist der Mk5 brockwurst cooker unt launcher   :t-up:

Dumkopf  :sheep:

ours of fun this

Spain Spain! this is the mk5 brock sausage cooker unt launcher

idiot blockhead

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Hi Cleggy, I have been chatting to a VW mate of mine, and it struck me he may be able to help. I showed him your build thread and he has pointed out a few things mainly engine wise.

Apologies but i have no VW exprience whatsoever so i am repeating to the best of my memory what he said.

1. Your throttle bar is a standard type and apparently is notoriously inaccurate, and he states you will find it really hard to get the carbs opening together and cleanly. He suggests using a bar made by a company called Geneberg.

2. Your Fan shroud is not the type that is supposed to be on that engine, and although this is not a problem, he thought that where you have modified it, it may cause slight problems with airflow and heat issues. He reccomends fitting a deep sump and an external oil pump (a Scat pump or a Geneberg pump) to keep things cool.

3. He recommends you fit an electric fuel pump, IF you get running problems with the mechanical pump fitted. He said alot of problems caused when fitting twin carbs can be attributed to this as the mech pump cannot deliver enough fuel.

He also said have a look at these companys:

Karmann Konnection

Bernard Newbury

If you have any probs you can't solve enginewise let me know and i can run it by him. He's VW mad so he's more than willing to help. I can PM you my number if you wish

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Hi Stuart - hope you are well chap

1. throttle hex bar - dunno about these - the hex bar as far as I know are considered one of the better types but I can see what he means as the arms at the ends of the hex bar do not sit directly over the arm on the carb even with adjustment - therefore resulting in uneven travel - will see how this goes when I get around to starting the engine up and modify or replace as required  :t-up:

Geneberg do great stuff by the way

2. the fanshroud is an after market jobby that is widely used - I have opted for no heat exchangers which means more air gets pushed over the engine - I have investigated a deep sump before which sorta seems like a common sense fitment for all VW's that may have cooling issues (or perhaps any engine) as the standard oild capacity from memory is sumtin like 3L - the spyder engine is not cramped into a tight space like it would be on a beetle so am hoping that it should be ok, although if I upgraded the engine in the future greater steps would need to be taken for sure

3. I have fitted an electric fuel pump (see recent posts)

Appreciate the help - when I get around to sorting the engine side of things I may well be in touch  :t-up:

Just off to look at those links you provided

Thanks  :D - of and PM me your number anyway  :D

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In my experience the biggest problem for cooling is allowing hot air from the exhaust to enter the fan.  As long as you block it all off properly I think you'll be fine.

However, looking at this pic it doesn't look like much of the original surrounding 'tinware' was used except the fan housing and cylinder shrouds.  In a Beetle there's normally (unless it's rusted off) a big rubber seal between the bodywork and a flat semicircular plate that's attached to the cylinder shrouds and around the front/back? (I mean pulley end) of the engine.

SANY1264.jpg

You might get away with it because as you say you've got more room round there than in a Beetle.

Mike ;)

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Hey Mike

yeah I know that piece of tinware you are on about - like you say fitted to beetles as standard - not sure on how much of a part it plays in the grand scheme of things although it may well be essential in a beetle

I suppose various beetle kits/replicas have not used this piece and I know that no other 718 replicas (and various beech buggies) I have seen in pictures have not had that piece fitted so fingers crossed it will be ok

Cheers  :t-up:

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Looking at the drawers in the background it looks like your cars are built out of screws, washers, bike bits and nails....I can't think of one more thing you need...:)
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Looking at the drawers in the background it looks like your cars are built out of screws, washers, bike bits and nails....I can't think of one more thing you need...:)

I like recycling  :p

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started on battery tray - usual styling "make it strong"  :laugh:

SANY3466.jpg

made up a strap to go over the top and welded in some captive nuts

SANY3472.jpg

SANY3473.jpg

battery will probably go here elevated slightly - no room at the front so this will have to do - shall not locate until the seatbelt framework is in place - had an email from the chap today to say that me pipe is cut and bent and on its way

SANY3475.jpg

ok I was bored but it kept the kids happy for half an hour

SANY3468.jpg

SANY3474.jpg

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]

ok I was bored but it kept the kids happy for half an hour

SANY3468.jpg

Which kid we talking about here ;)

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thanks Dave for throwing a few ideas around the other night  :t-up:  - we agreed a good way forwards I reckon

pipe arrived today from supplier on ebay - good service

two 90 degree bends - two 30 degree bends and two 2m lengths -

SANY3483.jpg

started off doing some templates for some brackets that will hold the seatbelt mounting framework

going to use some think steel plate for these which I had laying around - going to be fun cutting it without the aid of a 100 grand water jet but what you cannot do with a £30 angle grinder aint worth doing  :D - this plate also needs to be stepped to fit the shock absorber support so will have to angle grind a groove then bend and re-weld

SANY3488.jpg

the idea is that the whole assembly inc the part that goes around the back of the engine will be one piece so that it can be removed for easy engine out should the need arise

will probably drop a bracket down to the torsion bar tube to give some extra support as well

SANY3487.jpg

just off to see if I can get a short piece of 36mm o/d pipe to use as an insert to help line to bits up

chopping, welding, grinding - this bit is going to be fun  :devil:

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I like that  :)

You should hang that last one in the Tate  :t-up:

jackson pollocks to you  :p

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