scruffythefirst Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 20w 50 is a bit thick. I used halfords cheap 15w 50 to run my cossie in, changed twice in the first 600 miles then switched to fully synthetic silkolene 15w 50. It did get a thrashing from the start though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
combatsapph Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 I used the cheapest nastiest Asda special 20/50 oil to run my Pinto in - 200 miles then dropped it, new oil filter and did another 200 miles on a fresh lot of the same stuff - think it was £5.99 for five litres. Then dropped it again, new oil filter and now running 10/40 semi synthetic and no smoke whatsoever. In fact, after 1000 miles the oil is still gold :-) I know alot of people say 10/40 is too thin but on a freshly built Pinto I thinks it's spot on (in fact I think that's what the Haynes manual reconmends). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomexnomad Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 Ive got 10W40 in there at the moment, i know this is wrong but i am changing it this afternoon for a 20w50 oil...this may reduce some smoking, see how the run to stoneliegh goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slater Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I'm running 10/40 no problems, Pintos really dont like fully synthetic. lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray5wood Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 valvorline vr1 for me................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Vulcan recommend Valvoline Racing 20W/50 IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scruffythefirst Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 QUOTE Pintos really dont like fully synthetic Rubbish, as long as its the correct grade synthetic won't do anything bad to the engine and will be better for it in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomexnomad Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 I have changed the oil... Certainly keeps much better pressure with a 20w50 in there, i used halfords classic as it was all i could lay my hands on at the time. Looking at earlier threads, should i now run this for a few hundered miles and change again to a valvoline or maybe a millers 20w50? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Just a thought to add to this discussion....... My Pinto suffered from a leaky valve stem seal, although it was fine for the first 10,000 miles after a rebuild. The main symptom was a puff of blue smoke when pulling away (engine warm). Is it possible that your engine was built with the conventional valve stem seals? Most high lift camshafts (including Kent FR32) would batter these to death in a few miles, as the underside of the spring seat hits the oil seal. A low profile oil seal is available from Burtons etc. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Just a thought to add to this discussion....... My Pinto suffered from a leaky valve stem seal, although it was fine for the first 10,000 miles after a rebuild. The main symptom was a puff of blue smoke when pulling away (engine warm). Is it possible that your engine was built with the conventional valve stem seals? Most high lift camshafts (including Kent FR32) would batter these to death in a few miles, as the underside of the spring seat hits the oil seal. A low profile oil seal is available from Burtons etc. Ian Not wishing to hijack the thread, but that's interesting Ian. My Pinto recently started to do the puff of smoke thing after several thousand miles of trouble free use. It would issue forth a very noticable puff on re-application of power after a gear change - typical valve guide leakage. Now, miraculously, it has stopped doing it with no intervention by me. However, the lobe of the exhaust valve cam (FR32) on pot 4 is now goosed (a bit) and I need a new camshaft. I cannot avoid assuming that these events are related but I can't begin to imagine how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomexnomad Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Right an update! Its got worse! lol now on start up it smokes ALOT.. until its fully warm, then its ok... went for a club run to brighton the weekend just gone, and from people following me, under hard acceleration it was smoking!! I'm guessing this engine was built by a clown, and its just a tired old engine tarted up! I seem to have trouble keeping up with anybody, and i am getting a sinking feeling that something is poorly wrong with it. Good news is i am going to change it for another Pinto (yes i'm a Pinto ******) which has been lovingly built by Specialized engines with all new parts, and has been gas flowed, decked, balanced, ARP conrods, bolts, over bored to 2.1, modded head, fr32 cam, and new twin 45 webbers with K&N's, all dialled in and ready to fit (once up built it up) HOPEFULLY this will give me a car with the performance i was expecting....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
combatsapph Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Specialized engines gas flowed Lets hope they've moved on from using dark glasses and boring bars since my last dealings with them. I had to prettry much redo the inlet ports myself - you could have sliced your finger off on the sharp edge at the bottom on the throat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomexnomad Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 Seems ok, looks lurvley..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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