Mark Stanton Posted November 23, 2006 Posted November 23, 2006 That brickwork on left hand side of bay window extension looks iffy in piccie is it properly bonded in below window cill and is that white item the insulation to cavity Quote
james grayley Posted November 23, 2006 Posted November 23, 2006 Danish oil is ok for worktops, furniture etc, but not really for traffic. Try tung oil, is a bit tougher, or if you want to do the job properly, look up 'bonna kemi traffic' which is what i specify for oak floors. Quote
JeffC Posted November 23, 2006 Author Posted November 23, 2006 think the bit you can see is block and plaster, old plaster fell off till I got to the bay and thats like bell metal so I just dot and dabbed up to it and skimmed over it Quote
JeffC Posted November 23, 2006 Author Posted November 23, 2006 Danish oil is ok for worktops, furniture etc, but not really for traffic. Try tung oil, is a bit tougher, or if you want to do the job properly, look up 'bonna kemi traffic' which is what i specify for oak floors. Have you or anyone else come across this triptrap oil ? it was supposed to be for comercial floors and be very hard wearing Quote
Gromit Posted November 23, 2006 Posted November 23, 2006 Danish oil is normally a mixture of Tung oil, Linseed oil and another couple of ingrediants which have slipped my mind. We use it on our solid wood worktops as it accentuates the grain and brings out the colours in the wood. If its not properly applied you can end up with a waxy, sticky coating on the wood that`ll trap any dust or grit. Its pretty waterproof but it does need to re recoated from time to time as it will sink into the wood after a while. It might be worth trying a satin finish acrylic varnish if its a sheen you`re after on the floor and this shouldn`t darken the wood too much but as with any wood treatment it will alter the colour to a certain degree. Quote
JeffC Posted January 21, 2007 Author Posted January 21, 2007 havent found anything suitable yet , its a canny size area so realy only want to be doing it once ,and yes mrs c gives me grief daily I tried a test area with the danish stuff and it stayed sticky but I didnt thin it.. the trip trap looks helish but the more she washes the floor the patchier it is getting.. Quote
MVS Posted January 21, 2007 Posted January 21, 2007 Will try and find out what my mate used on his. It was a mix of an oil and a wax, it didn't darken them much, and is wearing well, he did tell me the name but I've forgotten it Been slightly pre-occupied of late; SVA, reg, & running in an engine that seem's as tight as a nat's chuff Quote
JeffC Posted January 21, 2007 Author Posted January 21, 2007 a few wide throttle openings will sharp loosen it up.. or fetch it up here and I will sort it for ya Quote
MVS Posted January 21, 2007 Posted January 21, 2007 Here goes; Fidde's Hard waxoil he rates cos it's one coat and job done. OR Bourne Traffic Wax also known as Johnsons Traffic wax, but this needs a good buff with a floor buffer. This is the stuff they use on church floors I believe they are both available form Rydenor in Thirsk by mail order, or if you're passing. If you're mail ordering I think if you order £40 or over carriage is free. Hope this helps to keep SWMBO happy Quote
MVS Posted January 21, 2007 Posted January 21, 2007 Just been looking at the Rydenor site, and can't see either he recommended so I think you'll have to ring them and have a word. This is their speciality though, so I'm sure they can sort you out. Mike Quote
Liam Posted January 21, 2007 Posted January 21, 2007 I have an oiled oak floor in the hall. I use Rustins floor oil. Doesn't wash off. Stands up to usual hall type traffic. Quote
tex Posted January 23, 2007 Posted January 23, 2007 i had oak floor in my old house jeff - see mark leybourne he's seen it - the floor was real wood sanded back with a big sander then i used LIBERON FLOOR SEALER its not a varnish - but a clear watery sealer - goes on dead easy just slap it on with a brush let dry give a few coats. has been down for ten years now and never been recoated once!!!! problem with paint type varnishes is they are hard to patch up and sit ontop of the floor surface so if scratched they are goosed really.. this stuff is thin and soaks in with a rock hard gloss finish. to clean it and other wooded floors you cannot use chemicals but should only use a damp cloth with a bit of disinfectant in - no bleach! has to be damp or the finish will ruin on wood it expands. so dont soak it!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote
Guest Posted January 23, 2007 Posted January 23, 2007 Don't undestand it! We used old engine oil on a shed behind the garage 12 years ago. No problems at all. Duckhams 20/50 it was, 10,000 miles of hard use. Mind you, it does darken the wood a bit, but it fades after 3 or 4 years. Cheers Quote
Bananaman Posted January 23, 2007 Posted January 23, 2007 Could it be that Mrs C is using the wrong cleaning product for the finish you want/have..... If you dare ask the question...... We fitted oak floors but they came pre-finished so cannot comment directley on finishing oak, however i also did some pine floors and finished them with a matt- Ronseal Diamond Hard Clear Floor Varnish. Did the hall a couple of years ago and still looks fine. Quote
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