4age

[pist-n-broke]

need some help, have bought a se with a recent conv to a 4age, have been to boggs and had carbs done also on d boggs rec had distributer remapped by h&h to suit 4age (sierra distributer) but after lots of playing with distributer advance/ retard cannot get it to run ok, could it be something further back ie ignition which is a bestek 1 g 100 r , car used to be 1700 x flow

thanks, all replies welcome

[markcoopers]

Not really sure here, but it will be Fule or spark.

Fule could be simple things like wrong jets/pressue or floats, perhaps more info on when the problem occures, full load, idel, what rpm etc?

Spark is more than likely to be one component not really liking the other. My 4age ran with Omex controling the sparks, and never missed a beat.

[Blatman]

I think a chat with Raw Engineering would be my first option.

[pistonbroke]

need some help, have bought a se with a recent conv to a 4age, have been to boggs and had carbs done also on d boggs rec had distributer remapped by h&h to suit 4age (sierra distributer) but after lots of playing with distributer advance/ retard cannot get it to run ok, could it be something further back ie ignition which is a bestek 1 g 100 r , car used to be 1700 x flow

thanks, all replies welcome

Thats my handle you got there m8y

and you wouldn't  wanna be mistaken for  me  

[pist-n-broke]

yea seems worst when i am changing gear like from top end revs in 3rd to 4th gear feels like it gets a little bogged down pops and farts (throughcarbs)then its of we go again, have had boggs sort carbs so not sure on jetting etc , also by advancing or retarding distributor it makes it worse or better and after sending dizzy away for remapping it also improved thing but not cured it completely

already had chat with raw and think i would be having a 20valve fitted but the cost and distance are too much !

[markcoopers]

Ignore the 20v, just get the electronic ignition with programable ECU. You can then map the car on a RR and iron out all those issues. Around £500 for the ECU, Mel will sell you it with a pretty good map I would of though, and a further £500 on the RR.

Bogging down when changing gear like this could be all mannor of things, but to be honest only a RR sesion will identify and solve.

[pist-n-broke]

thanks for replies and think i have sussed it, spend some money arhhh you only live once and cant take it with you !!

thanks again

[mike m]

Thats my handle you got there m8y

and you wouldn't  wanna be mistaken for  me  

I will second that      

[alan dixon]

Thats my handle you got there m8y

and you wouldn't  wanna be mistaken for  me  

I will second that      

and I will third, forth and fifth it  

[Bluerallye]

I'd concur with markcoopers, ignore the 20v and use the Omex as RAW specify.  I have the plain 16v RAW 4AGE on Dellortos and Omex and apart from a reluctance to start from really, really hot it never misses a beat.

[davidgh]

I wouldn't ignore the 20v. I don't know what Mel wants for it, but:

1. it's (either 'silver-top' or 'black-top') a torquey little engine, much more powerful than a standard 16v,

2. it comes with TBs as standard, so very easy to drive, and you'll have some carbs to sell with the existing engine,

3. the mods required to your existing 16v exhaust manifold are very minor,

4. Mel will be able to sell you an Omex with a standard map for the 20v  --  saving you £300-500 on the RR.

The 20v engine is a much better 'all round' option if you are happy with its very useable ca. 145ps. Unfortunately though, there are not many easily available power upgrades for the 20v engine,  --  but you can get about 180-190ps on a reliable basis out of the phase 3 16v if you spend enough (£4-5k) money.

HTH

Edited to say: if you are going to use either engine on the track, I'd talk to Mel about sumps  --  the standard sump is fine if you are ok with the ground clearance, however, cheap 'short' sumps can cause oil starvation.