Ford Capri's

[scruffythefirst]

Going to look at a ford capri tommorow evening as I sold my tin top rather unexpectedly, anyone got anything in particular to look out for?

Its got a 1.6 pinto and its green  

[steve_m]

When you see the market inspector coming Rodney, close the suitcase and run ...    

[Gromit]

MK1,2 or 3?

[Sam]

I know of a ford capri that is in pieces, if you need any parts give me a shout and i will see what i can do.

[scruffythefirst]

mk 3

Thinking mondeo brakes, 2.1 big valve pinto on bike tb's and megasquirt, 2.8special lsd axel and avo's.

just need to know where its likely to be rusty and how to tell, as i've only bought rustproofed cars before

[jak]

Going to look at a ford capri tommorow evening as I sold my tin top rather unexpectedly, anyone got anything in particular to look out for?

Furry dice hanging from the rear view mirror and leopard print seat covers            

John

[felters]

I'd have thought rot generally will be an issue but suspension turrets and spring hangers would be especially suspect...

All the oily bits are cheap and available but getting the body sorted  

[scruffythefirst]

So how do i tell what bits are rusty just by looking?

And are they standard 108x4 pcd?

[stu999]

So how do i tell what bits are rusty just by looking?

And are they standard 108x4 pcd?

Big holes are a dead giveaway... Bear in mind that most older Fords lives ended because of tinworm. There could potentially be structural rot *anywhere* on a car of this age. It can also be extremely difficult to actually spot problem areas, especially if you will not have the benefit of getting the car up in the air to have a butchers underneath. And of course, it isnt uncommon to find rust/rot covered with all manner of bodges. Newspaper, filler and a thick coat of underseal can look like a decent chassis to the inexperienced eye

The good news: the wheels are 108pcd

[scruffythefirst]

The good news: the wheels are 108pcd

Also, its got a years mot and is cheap, so bining it in a year isn't too bad

[Blatman]

As Felters has said, check the front and rear turrets and rear leaf hangers. Also, forwards of the rear spring hanger, the chassis travels up and around the inner wheel arch. They rust there, so don't be afraid to poke it with a screwdriver. It's a sod to spot and an easy MOT fail, so don't be shy.

The doors drop (fairly easily fixed) but check it's not ecause the area around the hinges is rotten. Likewise the are where the door pillar/A pillar joins the floor, and also the front corners of the floor pan. It's not uncommon to be able to see the road rushing by as the carpet flaps in the breeze...

Lastly, check under the carpet in the boot for the upper part of the chassis rails where they've been welded on. They're a water trap/weak spot right from new. Your looking for two visible parralel lines about a foot inside the edge of the boot easch side, from the rear panel forwards. If you can see 'em, then they're on the way...

[Hammy]

Still a good car ! I had a 2.8i which was nice, but very thirsty and the gearbox can't take lots of thrashing

Rust rust rust are the things to look for ! Use the handle of a plastic screw driver to tap all the suspect areas and feel about with the oyur fingers. Wagling the open  doors up and down as well as showing worn hinges will show if the a post is rotten if the area flexes a lot.

Strut tops !! Beware of plates put over the top*, they just hide the rot, often the under wing cup has gone too!! also feel under the drip rail (where the inner wing meets the outer along the bonnet shut line)    Rust on Front wings, sills esp just behind the "B" post where you see a rust line between the rear wing and the sill section.

(*2.8's and 3.0's have these as standard, but they still hide rust problems)

The "chassis" box sections front to back esp around rear spring mounting.  "A" posts especially near the top ( rust appears at the lower corner of windscrreen on bad ones). lower X member in front of radiator.

The mechanical bits should be easy to fit, big engined cars are seriously lacking in the braking dept and warped (vented) discs common, Steering shimmy can be worn anti roll bar bushes ( easy fix).  Gearbox should be nice an quiet, drive line shunt can be worn propshaft joints , duff diff bearings.

These are old cars now and body panels will be hard to find. like most things the Capri club in its various guises is worth a visit ( inc AVO owners club for Mk1's). IMHO the 2000s was the best model, the 1.6 will be a bit er flat. midly tuned RS3100's are wonderful but a rough harsh ride)

As Crapies are cheap therefore IMHO its not worth bothering with one with a less than "A1" body and interior (watch for cracked dashes ,non standard stereo with hacked dash)

good luck and don't forget the furry dice

Personal view:

Why not just put a mondeo/vauxhall 2ltr in it -would make a nice car with better drivabilty and economy (highly tweaked engines are not much fun in a heavy car). Suspension wise use 2.8i struts and rear springs/dampers (swap the whole rear end off a 2.8i ?) . Car needs really big front discs and discs at rear. powering steering would be high on my list too..

Or... maybe just get a mint 280 ? -may be a far cheaper "whole life" cost

[scruffythefirst]

They're bl**** BOATS

Seemed solid, jabbed everything structural hard with a screwdriver, no rust that i could find.  Bit of a filler tastic repair to the rear corner, but nothing too horid.

took it for a drive, and its slooooooooow, and the brakes are barely there and the steering is doing the shimmy thing on bumpy roads.

The worst thing was the bloke was a right muppet, reaql ASBO material and wouldn't entertain an offer below his e-bay reserve.

Hmm what to do

[scruffythefirst]

So I suppose what I want to know is can they be made to handle?

[felters]

So I suppose what I want to know is can they be made to handle?

up to a point - yes. But that's the wrong car to start with. Go for a 2.0S or a 2.8i otherwise it really will cost a fortune.

BTW what is wrong with somebody sticking to their asking price?