timandchris Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 I believe from reading other posts that the front of the ecu plate is supposed to be mounted onto the underneath of the round hoop tube behind the dashboard. Q1> I have found some No. 10 S/t screws but these look a bit big, two are countersunk, the rest not ... are these the ones to use? Q2> I have riveted a loom saddle to the ecu plate to cable tie on the diagnostic cable end, but am worried that the back of the rivet i have used to do this will cause me sva problems as it will be in the passenger footwell, is there any trim to be fitted over the underside of the ecu plate later that will cove up this protruding rivet, or should i drill out and find another method. Thanks Tim and Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deano.1 Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 1) Yes those screws look too big, i drilled two holes in my plate and cable tied it around the chassis tube (saved drilling it and easily removed) 2) You could try riveting through from the other side so that the flat side of the rivet is on the underside and the pulled up part of the rivet holds your cable clamp IYSWIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timandchris Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 good ideas. Thanks Tim and Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 The hex head screws look like the ones I used to fasten my top transmission tunnel panels with. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick PC Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 Tim I have used domed bolts to fix the hinges to the engine bay end of the plate and to fix relays ECU and diagnostic plug to plate. Have put two rivnuts in the hoop and again used dome headed nuts to fasten this. Trust the build is going well and that you are making progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 Where the plate meets the hoop, I used a soft faced hammer to blend the plate into a curve to sort of wrap round the tube of the hoop. I then drilled two small pilot holes through into the tube and then used these as a guide for tapping a M5 thread in the tube sidewall. I know there's not much thicness in the tube's wall but there's enough. Regarding the underneath, I glued a piece of closed cell foam to the interior side of the panel, ie above passenger footwell. It'd be worth laying the wiring out so that the 9-pin D-connector is easily accessible so that there isn't the need to drop the panel down to access the ECU with Easymap later on. As others have said, hope you're enjoying the build. Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 It'd be worth laying the wiring out so that the 9-pin D-connector is easily accessible so that there isn't the need to drop the panel down to access the ECU with Easymap later on. Or you could make up a fly lead and leave it permamently attached with the "users" end clamped/cable tied to a convenient spot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted April 19, 2006 Share Posted April 19, 2006 If this is the "madness" kit or the later derivative the D-connector *is* on a short flying lead, I re-routed mine so it overhangs the edge of the plate referred to. Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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