Cam Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 What method do people recommend for bleeding brakes? Is there a particular order the brake cylinders should be bled in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Green Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Start with the furthest from the master cylinder (normally N/S/R, then O/S/R, N/S/F finishing with O/S/F). Have a small bottle with some brake fluid in; submerge the bleed pipe from the bleed nipple fully. Open the nipple and have an assistant pump the brake slowly until clear fluid comes out. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't drop too low. When it does, ask your assistant to hold the pedal down and lock up the bleed nipple. Don't over tighten the nipple as it sits on a tapered seat. Too tight and you will struggle to open it at a later date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slippy Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Various motoring establishments such as Halfords, Demon Tweeks sell the kits with instructions included Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu999 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 And if it is fitted with rear calipers, it is extremely worthwhile unbolting them from there present position, and holding them horozontally (with your disc, or other suitable spacer between the pads) - as they would be mounted on a Sierra. Otherwise an air pocket is formed that will prevent you getting a solid pedal. And gently tap them whilst bleeding to dislodge any trapped air. Finally, if using the 'assistant' method, make sure that you are getting full master cylinder travel beforehand. Chances are, if the brake pedal is aligned with the clutch, you ain't... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Adding to stu999 some later cars have Golf calipers with the bleed nipple at the top that eases the problem referred to. Also I used a Mityvac to suck air out rather than push it out, which worked OK for me. Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arm Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 You can make your own 1 way valve, it costs nothing and works well. Choose a piece of bleed tube that is reasonably flexible (eg rubber) Securely plug one end with a round bar. With a sharp scalpel cut a slit along the pipe through one wall only, no more than 5 mm long and near to the plugged end. Fit bleed pipe to nipple, crack nipple open slightly and slowly pump brakes. Slit will open under pressure and release air/brake fluid. It will automatically close when brake pedal is release. You dont need a bleed bottle other than to catch the excess fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelcoombs Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 In addition to the furthest from the master cylinder first advice above.... For 4 pot callipers to start with bleed both nipples together, then lock off the outer one and bleed the inner and then bleed the outer, repeat for the other calliper.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worldwidewebs Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 Got to agree with Arm... Have bought kits before now but using his method did the whole system in about 10 mins and cost about £1.50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikpro Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Gravity bled my brakes; jacked up front of car and opened rear nipples, left overnight then did same on front with rear jacked up. Finally with all nipples closed got a friend to pump the pedal ten times then just 'cracked' each nipple in turn working from the one furthest away from the master cylinder. Pedal feels fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Billsberry Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Got to agree with Arm... Have bought kits before now but using his method did the whole system in about 10 mins and cost about £1.50 Agreed top tip! Buzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuGsBuNnY Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 Just adding that if you have a brake proportioning valve, you will have to have it in the fully open position to bleed the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wood Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 Pressure bleeding with an Easybleed or similar seems to work well too. It's great for changing fluid where you need to shift quite a bit of fluid through the system rather than just bleed a bit of air out. It's also a one man job. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VX2L16V Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Any advise for twin master cylinders with a bias bar? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu999 Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Pressure bleed (as per Kevin's post), or get yet another assistant and bleed both ends of the car at once. Although saying that, I have always bled bias bar systems as any other braking setup, and never had problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrighty Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 after you have bled your brakes to the best of your ability. try this. remove the cap off the fluid reservoir, pump the brake pedal, keep pressure on by placing a peice of wood between the pedal and the base of the drivers seat, pref for a day or two. try your brake pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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