Chris R Posted January 5, 2006 Posted January 5, 2006 Started to refurbish my narrow bodied westy, (recently purchased). It was built in 1993 using an Escort axle and Cortina uprights. I've taken the alloys off and found the domed nuts holding the wheels on only located on the first three maybe four threads. I've tried a search on here in case its a previous question, but with no luck. Can anyone advise where I could get some longer studs in the West Yorkshire area and what is the correct diameter, thread and length. The alloys are Revolution and are not the type with a chamfer for the nut to locate in. The nuts are domed and about 1" to 11/4" long, if this helps ? I guess its just a matter of removing the drums and uprights and tapping out the short studs and replacing with longer ones. Thanks Guys. Quote
stu999 Posted January 5, 2006 Posted January 5, 2006 *Most* studs will be metric. But be careful, my SE had UNF studs fitted - so will depend on the age of the donoe vehicle(s)... Quote
Mark B Posted January 6, 2006 Posted January 6, 2006 Demon tweeks also sell them, but I'd try rally design first as they'll be cheaper...... Quote
hilux Posted January 6, 2006 Posted January 6, 2006 On my Atlas axle (Capri) I got granada studs from a ford main dealer spares dept for a coupla quid each IIRC Quote
Terry Everall Posted January 6, 2006 Posted January 6, 2006 Watch the length of the unthreaded part as it may stop you tightening wheel nuts without a spacer Quote
chasf42 Posted January 10, 2006 Posted January 10, 2006 I had the same problem on my wide body. You can also get studs from Westfield but they are slightly more expensive than Rally Design. I assume that the nuts have a closed end, if so check that the studs are not so long that they will bottom out in the cap of the nut. If they are you will need to either shorten the stud (prefered) or use a spacer washer under the nut. Here is the link to my topic..Click Most people suggest you can pull the studs through using the nuts and some spacers, I ended up striping a couple of nuts and a stud doing this. I found the easiest way to get the new studs in was as follows; Leave 2 old studs in the hub, place the hub through a rim(I had an old steel rim to hand), tighten the hub to the rim using nuts on the old studs. Place rim on solid surface ( I used the garage floor), insert new stud in hub, hit rear of new stud with copper mallet until flush. I also used a short copper bar as a striker to avoid damaging the hub with the hammer. Repeat process for remaining studs. Quote
Blatman Posted January 10, 2006 Posted January 10, 2006 If they are you will need to either shorten the stud (prefered) or use a spacer washer under the nut I woudn't use a spacer under the nut! I would (and do) use open ended nuts... Quote
chasf42 Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 Problem is the open ended wheel nut has a chamfered base, the wheels on my car and on Chris R do not have a chamfer for the nut. The domed nuts come with spacer washers, I have seen a number of different thicknesses, presumably to spread the load across the mating face on the wheel. As I said it would be better to shorten a stud if it is too long but a thicker washer is an option. Quote
Blatman Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 I could do with seeing a picture. Half of me thinks you are using sleeved nuts, the other half thinks the holes in the wheel for the studs are only just bigger than the studs, and you are clamping the wheel with the nut and a flat washer... The only time I've ever seen a flat washer/nut is on a sleeved nut... Show me your nuts... Quote
chasf42 Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 You have already seen my nuts See my thread Click. They are sleeved on my car. Quote
Blatman Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 Ah, it all comes flooding back... I guess I should have searched Quote
Chris R Posted January 11, 2006 Author Posted January 11, 2006 I've just read the other threads you kindly added in to your replies. My nuts are not the same as Chasf42, (no sordid comments please). Mine are closed top dome type, but approx 11/4" to 11/2" long. The sud problem described however is the same (too short). I've tried to identify the thread form and size of the studs fitted. Rally design website offers unf or metric. But 7/16" studs with unf thread form should be 18 or 20 teeth per inch, however the thread form on my studs (using a thread gauge) is comparible with 15 teeth per inch !! I also note the problem encountered by Chasf42 with the studs from Rally Design being of a larger shaft diameter than the original ones and not fitting in the hub. I intend to take one nut with one stud to my local Motor Factors and i'll try and match them to something I can buy over the counter. If this does not work I think i'll throw in the white towel and buy new studs with new nuts to match ! I'll keep you advised. Chris Quote
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