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Eezibleed


geofff

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Update.........Gunsons do a generic cap which fits MC's with cap diameters of 13 - 67mm   ???   "with straps and things" according to the girly describing it to me.

I have one on order.

I'll see how it goes and report back. Unless someone has already used the 'Generic' cap?  ???

Ta

Geoff

:)

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So....is bleeding the rears just plug and go??

Scott,

I used the ezibleed to do mine, both front and back  :D

Standard Westfield calipers all round, and it was just a case of plug and go, It was just as easy the second time around after dropping the car off the axel stands for the first time, then realising the rear flexible pipes were wrapped around the rear suspension, and again it was easy the third time, after I realised I needed to swap the nipple and hose connections to the calipers around to place the nippple on the uppermost fitting!!   :durr:

I did it on mine own, with out any assistance  :cool:  and didn't even break a sweat.

Worth every penny IMO   :)

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And I thought it was just me who'd bled the brakes so many times after realising I'd put stuff on the wrong way  :durr:

I'm not alone  :D   Halfords have ordered extra brake fluid in for the Swindon area just because of me - I'm sure of it.

Ta

Geoff

:)

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Right:  Eezibleed is superb tool. If you are using a standard "lid".

Generic cap is CR4P! With a capital CR4P!

Bought a cheapy one way valve system from Halfords £3.49 and my brake pedal is harder than Arnie S. at his best.

Ta

Geoff

:D

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Bought a cheapy one way valve system from Halfords £3.49 and my brake pedal is harder than Arnie S. at his best

Whats that then? a halfords equivalent of the ezi bleed system or what?

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Hi a4gom,

It's a rubber pipe with a REALLY cheap looking one way valve at the end and a plastic tab for "squeezing" the rubber pipe over the bleed nipple. The instructions say you don't have to worry about keeping the one way valve submerged in brake fluid as it will stop any air being drawn back into the system. However I don't trust it that much and I do keep it submerged.

Still a one man operation and only a little more effort than the Eezibleed.

Ta

Geoff

:)

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have tried

easy bleeder ,

none return ,

long tube back into mc ,

pumped away for hours,

flattened five tyres ,

jacked front up ,

jacked rear up ,

tried new rear calipers,

just about everythin till I'm blue in the face !

Still got soft spongy pedal  

bleedin westfield brakes ?  :(  :(  :(

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Hi pistonbroke,

Problems I had initially were weeping t piece and weeping pressure switch - basically I was totally paranoid about stripping thread's so over two / three weeks gradually tightened until no weeps - then bled again.

Another dangler up of mine was to loosen the nipples "too much" (more than 3/4 of a turn) - air gets back into the system 'round' :angry: threads bypassing the pipe you've put on the nipple.

You have callipers all round so I can't exactly replicate your set up but reading the board there does seem to be various 'common' problems. SEIW vs SEW. Not got to the mega chassis yet :)

If you were down the road I'd pop round for a look see but Wigan is a bit far for me :D  Is there anybody in the local area you can call on for an extra pair of eyes?  ???  Fiver gets you a tenner they'll spot it straight away and you'll be banging your head against a wall that you didn't spot it sooner.

Good luck

Geoff

:)

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Hi a4gom,

It's a rubber pipe with a REALLY cheap looking one way valve at the end and a plastic tab for "squeezing" the rubber pipe over the bleed nipple. The instructions say you don't have to worry about keeping the one way valve submerged in brake fluid as it will stop any air being drawn back into the system. However I don't trust it that much and I do keep it submerged.

Still a one man operation and only a little more effort than the Eezibleed.

Ta

Geoff

:)

Gotcha Geoff, I have one of these. One man operation? How do you see when the clean fluid comes through or the bubbles stop when your pumping the brakes on the other side?

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have tried

easy bleeder ,

none return ,

long tube back into mc ,

pumped away for hours,

flattened five tyres ,

jacked front up ,

jacked rear up ,

tried new rear calipers,

just about everythin till I'm blue in the face !

Still got soft spongy pedal  

bleedin westfield brakes ?  :(  :(  :(

1] Have you got nice smooth runs in your pipe work?

I had a problem like this on my MkII Escort, someone had fitted a fully floating axle and the new pipework had a horrible kink in it, just couldn't clear the air from it.

2] Are you sure the bleed nipple is at the very highest point on the caliper?

I had some AP clipers on the rear of my chevette, the axle was from an ascona i200 and must have been slightly rotated when mounted on the chevette, the result was the nipple was not the highest point, I had to bleed the calipers off the car with some old pads shoved in to fill the void left by the disc.

Just some of my experiences for you to consider.

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Hi a4gom,

I have an aeroscreen and cycle wings - I lift myself up with my arms whilst pumping the pedal - it's quite energetic I admit - you can 'here' a lot of bubbles coming out as well (such as when I changed the MC's over) - if it's just a few small bubbles I'm putting at least 300 - 400ml of brake fluid through every nipple I bleed so all the old stuff comes out. A bit OTT but it is working for me.

Because I use the one way valve submerged in fluid I can get out (quickly), run round to the nipple (this is how I did the rear N/S drum - you only need do one on the LA set up), see how much fluid has gone through, see if there are any bubbles in the tube before the one way valve - they move quite slowly - you can see them reversing up the pipe heading towards you calliper / drums again  :angry:  - then just nip back and pump another 10 times.

I bought 6 * 1ltrs of Dot 5.1 for about £35 (I think) from Halfrauds so far. I have about 1 litre left. Should have bought a 5ltr big tub to start.

OTT I accept but I'm not having a spongy pedal.

I also had to use some of the fluid to pump out the pistons when I replaced all the seals (ages ago). I wanted to do this myself - as well as wire brushing (drill mounted) the callipers clean. A useful experience to know the effort (high) / skill level (low) involved but I would not do this again - messy & fiddly - exchange old for new for about £80 - and get on with another more technical job.

Ta

Geoff

:)

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Thanks for the advice chaps

Yes I tried all the things you suggested including removing the calipers and kicking the living sheet out of em whilst bleeding !

Think part of the problem is maybe the pipe runs have  too many tight corners that "go up an under" a bit too much where pockets of air may be trapped .

might have to re do the system but that will just have to wait till the dark nights arrive !

I Also have 4 pots fitted on the front (sierra rears) and I think the standard MC needs to be changed for a bigger type , although I can't understand how that would improve pedal travel ?

another problem was the lhs rear pads wouldn't come away from the disk and braking hard would lock up the wheel .

I just changed the caliper , the thing was OK for about thirty miles , now the fault has come back again but is better in that the bad comes away from the disk after a few hundred yards or so .

I dont know if the "new " caliper is faulty or somethin else is causing the cylinder to stay out .

loads and loads of head scratching going on here  

???  ???  ???

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b******d Halfords.....All set to use Eazibleed last nite........NO FUGGIN washer/nut for the cap...b******ds :arse:  :arse:  :arse:

So back to the 2 man job. Got lotsa air out and a reasonable pedal.

Halfords will be getting the sharp end of a very sharp tongue today :devil:

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