Flappa Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 Following on from another thread on SVA failure, it's worth noting this issue. One of the reasons for my failure at SVA was that when the examiner turned of the engine following emmissions test, the engine kept running for a couple of seconds. I tested it out further last night and can confirm that it is some sort of feed back from the rad fan. If I turn off the engine while the fan is running, the engine continues until the fan has slowed down (a couple of seconds). Its a Madness kit (1800 Zetec on std injection). Your thoughts? Is this a common problem, or is it just with the MBE ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studbuckle Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 I've heard of it before so it must be a common problem. You said the factory suggested it might be the problem, what do they say is the cure? From and Electronics background I would say that a relay on the fan and/or some diode would sort it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geelhoed Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 Very common, but I don't think it's a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flappa Posted April 6, 2005 Author Share Posted April 6, 2005 The cure is a wiring mod to change the fan feed so that it is fed from the battery rather than the ignition circuit. This should mean that the fan would run on (controlled by the temperature switch), but the engine will stop. It should be straight forward enough I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woz Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 It's not only on the mbe ecu, mine does the same and its a webcon alfa ecu. The SVA examiner comented on it but didn't seem to think it was a problem. Just shows the inconsistency with the SVA Best of luck with the retest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 The only problem with wiring it to the battery is the fact the the fan will draw getting on for 10 amps give or take and could stay running for some time after the car has stopped. Westfields normaly run small batteries and you could find it hard going to get it to start again if you wire it straight to the battery. I have wired my fan with a relay and have no further problems with the car running on or flat batteries and the battery I have is only 20AH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flappa Posted April 6, 2005 Author Share Posted April 6, 2005 I only intended to make a temporary mod for the retest. Now that I know what the issue is I'm not overly concerned about it. Its just frustrating, and one for others to be aware of. The bottom line being that its not right, and as a known problem WF really should make a change to correct it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith the Teeth Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 If you have a heater make sure the heater fan is switched off. I think that you will find that you can get a similar but reduced problem from the heater fan motor! Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 This is the first time I have heard of it being an SVA issue. It happens to my car but, having found out what caused it, I can't really see it as a problem worth addressing. Until now... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flappa Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 The problem for SVA, and I guess that I am just unfortunate to be the one who cops it, is that when the examiner turned off the engine following emmissions test...it didn't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chester Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Fit a relay in the circuit. When the ignition is switched off, the power to the relay dies and breaks the connection to the battery that supplies the fan power. My car does this, I haven't tried this mod but I believe that it works. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilux Posted April 10, 2005 Share Posted April 10, 2005 I would put a shunt or diode in it as it `may` power the EMS the wrong way (although I assume it will be protected) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAT1800 Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 Just to add to this... I was running my 'almost completed car' (madness, zetec 1800 kit) this weekend, probably the longest time its been run so far, as I wanted to check the fan etc was working, after reading this thread. Before the fan had kicked in, but after the engine was warm and the themostat had opened, I tried to turn the engine off, but it contimued to run, for a good 3 minutes or so, still with no fan running. Only after removing the keys from the ignition and then just tapping the brake pedal did it stop. It appears that (on mine) once the ignition is turned off the only way to stop the engine is to tap the brake pedal, this method does work well though I did then run it for a bit longer and the fan cut in...also my water temp gague doesn't seem to be working at the mo, there is current to it, and it moves off the needle when the ignition is on, but it never moves after that, it also seemed to have a slight bit of condensation on the inside?? don't know what the cause of all of this is yet, just discovered it and thought I'd throw it into the mix, going to do some more investigation this week. BTW, I'd run the car 5 or 6 times before this, but never long enough for it to warm up properly, and it had always stopped fine in the turn of the key? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flappa Posted April 11, 2005 Author Share Posted April 11, 2005 Mat, That run on sounds strange I can't really help with that one I'm afraid. Brake pedal (hence lights) might just be enough to drain any residual current from ignition circuit allowing the engine to stop. Do you have the heater fan turned on? this could do the same thing as the rad fan. But 3 mins? ? ? ? The temperature gauge not reading is probably the earth on the sensor. On mine (Smiths gauges) I had to swap the sensor for the one that came with the clocks. You have to use the earth ring on the loom as the thermostat housing on the engine is plastic. On mine I'd used some joint sealer for the thread which had also squeezed out preventing a good earth for the sensor. Check the earth contact. The other thing to note is that on mine it takes ages for the engine temperature to register. Only once the thermostat has opened. This I think is due to the position of the sensor in the housing. Gauges misting up is just one of those quirky things that you learn to love about a WF. It comes and goes and is not usually anything to worry about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappers Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 I have the same problem with my 1800 zetec (MBE ECU, Jenvey TBs). When I turn off the ignition and remove the keys, the ignition light stays on and the engine continues to run, for over a minute some times. Did the same last night though only for about 20 seconds after I got petrol - just down the road, so the engine wasn't even warm and the fan wasn't running. I thought it was going to be a fuelling problem but Northampton Motorpsort sorted that out and commented on the overrun. Some further investigation is in order. By the way, does this run-on cause any harm to the engine? since it is not too much of a problem just a little annoying. Cheers Kev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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