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What Diff


congorobot

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I have been finding the performance that my non-lsd is giving to be rather poor. I would like to fit a lsd but am unsure which type would fit. I have a narrow westy se, it has a live axel. Is it the case that i can remove the prop, unbolt the front cover and remove the existing diff then stuffing in a lsd? What sort of price should it cost to buy a lsd? I know that I can get one new for £450 or so from Burton, however this is beyond my budget at the moment. I was thinking if possible to get one second hand. If anyone has any advice I would be very pleased to hear.
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IIRC you will need a LSD for an 'English' axle. S/H ones do appear - but according to what type you find, it may well want the pre-load adjusting (the amount of slip), as most for sale have usually been set up for Escort rally cars, rather than a light sports car.
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I'm by no means an expert, but I'll give this a go.

Essentially 2 types of LSD, the ATB versions and the plate/mechanical type.

ATB are the fluid operated ones, as made by Quaif, and sold by Westfield as an LSD option. By all accounts they work very well in Westfield’s, and from a personal view point, my V8 Westy was fine with it but I never touched the diff once.

Plate/mechanical ones are sold by various people and

Ford, popular because of Escort rallying. These are set by an expert/experienced hand, so as to slip at a set predetermined limit. This needs to be set for a light car like a Westfield, so if you get a 2nd hand one from an escort you may need to set it up.

2nd hand I've really only seen the mechanical/plate type ones for sale, and as with any mechanical part, check it is what it claims to be, and works well. Rumour has it that £200 is the starting point for 2nd hand used LSD diffs, but recon on £100+ to set it correctly/service it for your application.

As for unbolting the prop and diff from banjo, and simply refit...hum....... In theory yes, but you will be covered in diff oil and had a fiddly job/have to refill it. Far better to take the axel out and do it out of the car, but half shafts are easier removed with the axel in the car.

Lastly and opinion is divided here, the prop flange when tightened crushes a deforming spacer, and exerts pressure on the two pinion bearings. This setting is critical to the diffs performance and life, and really needs to be set with the crown wheel removed and using specialist tools like a spring balance. Others will tell you that it can be done with a torque wrench and feel in situe. I've no really experience of either way, as in my opinion it's a job for a specialist/experienced hand. I would factor this cost in as well if I were you.

Hope this helps, but ignore it if someone more informed comes along.

Good luck,

Mark

:)

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ATB are the fluid operated ones

Nope. ATB's use a worm type gear to limit slip.

Ford's standard LSD fitted to XR4x4's are viscous, and use a fluid to provide slip limiting forces. Sadly, the XR4x4 diff won't fit the application we're talking about. I know you know that Mark, but I'm just adding it for the sake of clarity...

Other than that minor confusion, the rest is pretty much spot on.

For a live axled Westfield, I would *definitely* hold out for a Quaife ATB. You may be lucky and find one in the back pages of Motorsport News (out every Wednesday), but expect to pay around 300 quid for a good one, and I would definitely leave the fitting to a pro, so factor in about a ton to get the ATB unit fitted to a diff. You'll still need to remove and refit the assembled diff into the axle housing yourself.

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