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Brake balance bar


rushwor

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On my Birkin, I would adjust the center of the balance bar closer to the side of the dual cylinder brake pedal where I wanted more braking force.  The length of the push rods were equal.  I've tried this on my Megabusa, but the rears always lock first.  I've searched and read many threads, but none seemed to have the answer.

Should the pushrods be the same length (mine have 4cm of threads showing)?

Does the balance bar function in the Westfield, or do I need to put in a bias valve?

I'm currently experimenting with adjusting the lengths of the pushrods, but my gut tells me this is not the right way to do it.

-Scott Rushworth

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I have had to tweak the length of the pushrods a little because my rear circuit seems to "flex" more (if it's a tiny teeny weeny air bubble or a "function" of the Sierra rear calipers I don't know). So I have the "rear" pushrod a little longer so that when they engage, the balance bar is straight. I had to do this because otherwise the bar would twist so far that it would not give any rear braking. I have 4-pot wilwoods at the front.

Maybe you have air in the front circuit somehow? These cars are notoriously difficult to bleed ...

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Can also be a pad friction miss match. I had Pagid RS15's in the front and Greenstuff in the rear and could not get enough rear bias. Popped a set of Pagid RS14's in the rear and I was locking up the rear on down changes with the same setting. Wound the bais forward a little and the brakes are now awesome !!!

Bazzer

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