Andrew Mills Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Right then this could be the first bit of real mechanic type stuff for me, except for re newing the shocks and seats and other easy bits. I have a 95 Narrow Body with a live axle. While replacing the rear shocks I noticed an oil leak from the diff. It seems to be from the front where the prop enters the casing. As I understand it (I am sure Chaz the Cambs AO will correct me if I am wrong) I need to disconnect the prop and replace an o ring or seal and ensure that I don't tighten it up to much as there are some taper bearing inside. (simplified version but not by much) As I am basically clueless about this, any suggestions would be much appreciated as I am concerned that I may have to remove the whole axle. I would also admitt to not owning the best equipped garage yet ! but I am slowly aquiring various bits and pieces. Cheers in advance and happy to provide a laugh or two Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SparkyB Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I have absolutely no clue concerning diff oil seals (sry), but I have got a garage full of tools if you need any and I would be happy to lend a hand. Mark B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Best leave Chaz to answer the really technical bit. I believe that you can mark the flange and bolt with paint, so that when redoing you know when and where to tighten too. Assuming you noted number of turns to undo, I've never done this, but believe it possible. If you over tighten you crush the crushwasher too much which then places too much pressure on either of the pinion bearings and causes them to cease/break. (I have a shagged one in a bucket in the garage if you want to see). On the axle removal front, I was just like you in that respects, but it took Chaz 20 minuets to get it out. Took me a day to put it back and i droped the diff in me face, but I learnt a lot. I also have a spare pinion oil seal if you need it. Good luck, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purdie Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I believe that you can mark the flange and bolt with paint, so that when redoing you know when and where to tighten too. Assuming you noted number of turns to undo, I've never done this, but believe it possible. If you over tighten you crush the crushwasher too much which then places too much pressure on either of the pinion bearings and causes them to cease/break. (I have a shagged one in a bucket in the garage if you want to see). That is assuming that the new crush washer is exactly the same thicknes as the one in the diff ( before it was crushed ), and that the one in the diff was set up correctly in the first place. You could be lucky and have no problems, however, Sods law...... General wisdom on here is to leave diff set-up to the experts. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DickieB Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I agree with Neil - diff set up is best left to experts so that the new crush washer is crushed to exactly the right amount and no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Thirded. Pinion oil seal replacement would be easy if it wasn't for that damned crush washer. Get it done by a pro... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike simmonds Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 why not have a go!!!!!!!! shove it on axle stands and extract the half shalfs out say 12"drain the diff (tray under and undo the bolts.you can get it done by a pro at this stage.use new gaskets,check half shalfs for damage.fill up and done. if you want to do the whole job yourself,you have to undo,and do up the pinion nut on the car, to stop the diff turning.New seal, crush washer, and a good accurate torque wrench.get a look at a escort workshop manuel.go slow and you should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Mills Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 Firstly can I say a big thank you to everyone who has replied so far. Mike I would have a go but to be honest what you are saying to be at the moment sounds like a different language. Chaz the Cambs AO will tell you that I tend to panic a bit if I don't know what I am doing. It took me a while to sus out replacing the shocks and that was with a build manual ! Does anyone know of a suitable pro that can do this in the Cambridge area or is it just a case of booking it in at a good local garage. I had the Westy MOT'd last Sept at my local gargage and they had maintained by tin tops for the last five years with no problems. Any suggestions greatfully received. Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Andrew, Trade transmissions in Peterbourgh did me "a favour" with mine, but tightening pinions/crush washers with the crown wheel in place is not recomended. (I discovered this the hard way as well). Similarly when I asked for a Tourque setting to tighten too, it was further explained to me that a spring ballence is used, and no preset torque setting is available. (factory and local ford garage). If you are going to repace one seal, it would be worth thinking about changing ratios/LSD and doing the lot in one? Locally try Lyndale enginering or cambridge motorsport. Further afield and elsewhere recomended, Abbey transmission services ltd, leytonstone in London. One other question, when you say it is leaking, are you talking a few drips a week, or a puddle a day/ If it's quite small, might leave it well alone and just keep it toped up. All the best, MArk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilux Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Ahem Take said used crush washer to a small engineering shop and have them machine a couple of `washers/sleeves` to exactly match the diameter etc and in particular the length of the `crushed` washer ie; a solid one. Insert accordingly and tighten to the required torque. The preload (mesh position) is then exactly as it was and more importantly cannot be crushed/wear further. (I did this on a live axle and assume it will work on an IRS diff ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Mills Posted January 13, 2005 Author Share Posted January 13, 2005 Mark thank you for the advice. It has been leaving oil patches on the garage floor about the size of a 50p for the last 6 months plus say about the last 1000 miles or so. It drives OK. But I think it would be a good idea to get it sorted out before the summer, because I don't want to be topping it up after each run. Hilux Thank you for your advice also, but as you might of gathered I am somewhat lacking in the knowledge dept and the learning curv is almost vertical. The idea being that I bought a second hand one to play around with and then at some stage in the future actually build a kit. However when that will be is anyones guess. If I am going to go to an engineering company I think I need to know what I am talking about as to be honest I have never seen a crush washer or even seen a half shaft etc close enough to work out how it all goes together. I would like to thank everyone who has offered advice and any more would be very welcome, it has certainly given me alot to think about. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 You're sure it's leaking? It could just be breathed oil dripping on the floor. The standard Westfield breather thingy on the Escort diff is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Mills Posted January 14, 2005 Author Share Posted January 14, 2005 Had another look under the car just to make sure and can confirm that unless the breather pipe is above the flange and prop I have a fair amount of oil splattered all around the tunnel and that oil is soaking the casing from the end of the prop right the way back to the axle from where it's dripping onto the garage floor. I have made enquiries with numerous garages/contacts people in the know around Cambridge and it looks like my best option is the local ford garage in Cambridge. Should give them something different to work on other than a Focus! I will let you know how I get on and thank you again for all the help. Hilux - I have only just re read your message and realised who you are from your avatar. (The last time I looked I had just got home from a 14 hour day !. I am sorry to hear of your accident and pleased to see that your OK, thank you for the advice. Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilux Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 Try these people Very helpful. If the leak is from the front then its a simple matter to pull out and change the seal, really it is. Get a drawing of one and you`ll see the crush washer (tube with a kink in it) Once out get a machine shop to make one the correct I/d and length and refit. When resetting remove all extraneous stuff like calipers/pads etc and a simple spring gauge resets the pre load ie: amount of effort required to start the flange turning from rest. Thanks for your good wishes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted January 15, 2005 Share Posted January 15, 2005 Andrew, I have a spare unused crush washer if you need one. Also, my "Local ford Garage" took on my job, but did not have the tools to do the job (spring balance), and thus guessed the torque setting.............needles to say when it started seizing within 10miles I had to do it myself again. Getting the axle and diff out is quite easy, as is putting it back together. Honest, a 1-2 hour job at most, took Chaz 30 minuets. We 'll come round and help, and this will save you about £150 labour. Good luck, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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