Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mike, having just purchased the kit from SBD, the kit (for pump on exhaust side mounting) is a sump, a front housing to replace the oil pump, an oil tank, the pump and adapter/drive pulley, and pipes to connect the sump pan to pump.

You will also need (which isnt included in the kit)...

A multi-vee front pulley and alternator pulley (because the standard pulley is too big to miss the new inlet pipe on the front housing)

New drive belt for above (not big money-but it all adds up)

Remote filter housing (if you dont already have one)

Filter for above

Pipes and connectors (this lot does add up...)

New front pulley bolt (not supposed to be reused-but thats up to you...)

New cam belt pulley bolts (these also have to be removed, so the cam-cover back plate can be removed to get access to the oil pump...same caveat as above)

New cam belt (the old one has to come off, so you can get to remove the old oil pump)

Oil pump gasket (for the new front cover)

Some decent instant gasket

Thread lock

Probably some other stuff I have forgot or cannot forsee in a different installation

And, daft as it sounds, oil...

Totalling all this lot up will not be far off the price for the original kit. Really...been there, done that.... :down:

of course, YMMV. Choosing to have the pump fitted on the inlet side may decrease costs a little-I dont honestly know.

Posted

Thanks for all the tips.

It seems I have a friend who wants to let his SBD tank go to me for a little less ££ (yee-ha).

I just did a new cambelt  :bangshead: I can probably re-use it. I didn't change the front pulley bolt (seems to be holding up just fine).

I'm not totally convinced to take the plunge, although everything I hear and see makes me want it even more.  :down:  :D  :D

already have remote oil filter and cooler and all that crap. Does the filter sit between pump and oil inlet (somewhere on the new front cover?) then my existing piping might be long enough. Where does the oil cooler go, along the same route? Where does the oil pressure sensor fit?

I can't see there's anything else besides a new front pulley I might need?

Is the stock windage plate used or is that something I can throw away? So then I guess only one of the normal cork gaskets are used? Or perhaps none, just a thin string of silicone sealant?

Posted

OS-DSK-FC (£525.30)

& coupling kit (£41.20) £566,50

That's with the CC-pump.

The other kit with Slim-jim is £680 inc the coupling kit.

The pulley is included in the kit.

The there's probably some adapters and other crap, guessing another £100 or so.

so total for me would be about £650-ish.

Posted

mike

they recomend using next size up pipes for to pressure side and oil cooler being fitted in the return leg to the tank.this is different to your arrangement now.oil pressure switch has to be fitted to one of the tappings in block near exsisting oil pump [these can be bl**** hard to get out] allen  grub screw.

the pulley that is included in kit is for dry sump pump,you will still need new alternator front pulley £75 ,trust me,ask sbd .

:p

Posted
Is the stock windage plate used or is that something I can throw away? So then I guess only one of the normal cork gaskets are used? Or perhaps none, just a thin string of silicone sealant?

Depends on what sump pan you choose. On mine (SBD lowline), a fine rubber band is inserted into a machined slot around the mounting face. The windage tray can go with the oil cooler...

With regards to the allen grub screws, I shifted both of them with hardly any bother (although I was fully prepared for some grief from previous warnings). Give them a good cleaning out, so the right sized key can be inserted all the way in. I used an allen drive socket, but before trying to undo, I gave them (or rather, the unsuspecting drive socket) a couple of decent whacks with a hammer.

HTH Stu. :t-up:

Posted

Thanks, yeah, I've noticed the engine runs very cool on oil temp, so it probably isn't needed. I'm about to take the one I have out as despite a thermostat, the temps don't come up as they should in normal driving, which isn't kind to the engine. It seems the thermostat is leaking just a teeny weeny bit, and that is enough to cool all the oil under normal conditions. Generally, on track driving I've not seen the oil temps rise above 70°C (thermostat opens at 88 I think) measured in the sump, so it's definitely over cooled.

Where exactly are these allen head grub screws? I've got a wonky oil pressure sensor that I can't get a handle on (in the stock location) and instead of loosening that and risking leaks, I'd like to fit another one that I trust more and I might as well fit it in the right location for later anyway.

Posted
Both grub screws are in the region of the stock sender. IIRC the one which is perpendicular to the vertical centre line of the engine is probably inaccessible without first removing the original sensor, as I think it is immediately behind it. The other one is 'just down the gallery' from there, so to speak, and can probably be more easily seen from below the engine more clearly.
Posted
Thanks. I'll just remove the one that's giving strange values then. Probably easiest.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.