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Seight for sale


Oldhens

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Does anyone know this car? I’m hopefully going to view it shortly but would appreciate any info if someone’s familiar with it. I believe a couple of previous owners were former member. BX11UEV
 

 

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  • Oldhens changed the title to Seight for sale

It was once owned by ex-member @cjdad76 in Gloucestershire until he left the club in mid-2020.  Apart from that, there’s a few threads regarding track days, various wheels and a radiator that needed changing, there’s nothing else of interest.

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Hi,

 

Thank you that’s really helpful!

 

I’ve read through the previous owners posts and one thing that concerns me is a mention of the tub being mis aligned. Is this something to be concerned about, is it something that’s easy to rectify, I guess not as I believe it’s drilled and riveted to the chassis?

 

Thanks

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Apologies, probably too technical a question for this sub forum, I’ll start a new topic.

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1 hour ago, I-16 said:

Hi,

 

Thank you that’s really helpful!

 

I’ve read through the previous owners posts and one thing that concerns me is a mention of the tub being mis aligned. Is this something to be concerned about, is it something that’s easy to rectify, I guess not as I believe it’s drilled and riveted to the chassis?

 

Thanks


they’re all like that. 
 

the only way to get a decent panel gap between the bonnet and scuttle is the fit the tub off centre.

 

If you’re in any way OCD don’t measure the widths of the rear arches or the difference in height for the rear lights 😀

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No need, that’s rather a “how long is a piece of string?” question, in that one man’s “misalignment” is another man’s “within reasonable tolerance”.  The bodies are riveted on, but they didn’t come out of the moulds straight to begin with.  Quite often (mine included) the rear tyre positions left and right are not identical due to this, one being slightly further forward or back in the wheel well.  Just bear it in mind when you look over the car, checking the straightness of gaps between the bonnet, nose cone and scuttle.

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54 minutes ago, Captain Colonial said:

Quite often (mine included) the rear tyre positions left and right are not identical due to this

 

I've been pretending not to notice this on mine for over a year now.

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Sadly whoever built it did it “by the book” and took the build manual as Gospel 🤣

 

I ended up building mine “by eye” which meant throwing away the rule book but I ended up with balanced looking wheel arch alignment.
 

But getting all of the shut lines looking good just seemed impossible (replace the “u” with an “i” in shut lines to be more accurate)

 

As others have inferred it is something that you tend to ignore once you start to enjoy the car for what it was designed to do (make you grin) 😁 

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It’s an SEiGHT. A car you buy for the sounds, the smells, the torque, the grunt. An absolute weapon of a car. I’ve never looked back at mine and thought about things such as panel gaps. I’ve only looked back at it and thought - wow - that’s awesome!

 

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Thanks for the feedback everyone, so helpful!

 

I’ve noticed one other concern, it’s using a little water, apparently a slight weep from the core plug before it warms up. Is there anything I can check to verify it’s definitely just the core plug rather than the block has become porous? Are the core plugs easy to access or will it mean lifting the engine to access?

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In my experience, if a block has become porous or has a crack, it leaks after it’s warmed up as the block / crack expands.  A core plug will expand as it heats up, getting tighter in the block.  While changing a core plug is generally not difficult and a core plug is cheap (plus cost of fresh coolant), it rather depends on which one it is (there’s more than one) and what might be in the way of accessing it to change it.  You might well have to remove an exhaust header or ancillary, or need access to a ramp, in order to get at it.

 

Well done on doing comprehensive research before buying.

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33 minutes ago, I-16 said:

it’s using a little water

 

Make sure that it's not going into the oil.  Check inside the oil cap for mayo.

 

D

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35 minutes ago, Captain Colonial said:

In my experience, if a block has become porous or has a crack, it leaks after it’s warmed up as the block / crack expands.  A core plug will expand as it heats up, getting tighter in the block.  While changing a core plug is generally not difficult and a core plug is cheap (plus cost of fresh coolant), it rather depends on which one it is (there’s more than one) and what might be in the way of accessing it to change it.  You might well have to remove an exhaust header or ancillary, or need access to a ramp, in order to get at it.

 

Well done on doing comprehensive research before buying.

Thank you. I do have a ramp and happy to do most jobs but just don’t want to pay decent money and immediately have problems to fix. I’d at least like a few months of enjoyment before I have to start fixing things!

 

I usually do so much research that the car is sold by the time I’m satisfied, I better book the viewing now!

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On 30/08/2024 at 08:35, Mark (smokey mow) said:


they’re all like that. 
 

the only way to get a decent panel gap between the bonnet and scuttle is the fit the tub off centre.

 

If you’re in any way OCD don’t measure the widths of the rear arches or the difference in height for the rear lights 😀

I developed a nervous twitch after trying to get mine square. Don't get me started on the rear lights - if like me you think a laser level is a good tool to use to get them aligned, don't bother 😂😂

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On 31/08/2024 at 09:55, I-16 said:

Thank you. I do have a ramp and happy to do most jobs but just don’t want to pay decent money and immediately have problems to fix. I’d at least like a few months of enjoyment before I have to start fixing things!

 

I usually do so much research that the car is sold by the time I’m satisfied, I better book the viewing now!

Have you progressed??  You won’t regret it. Fantastic fun. 

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