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Which diff


craggers

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What do you intend to use it for?

On the road, MT75 and 3.62 diff works, giving you reasonable ratios in all gears with 15" wheels, but for competition, I can't comment.

I can even let you have a recently re-conditioned 7.5" 3.62 standard diff for £50.00.   New seals etc put in it 4,000 miles ago.   It's sitting on the floor of my garage waiting for a new home.

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I can even let you have a recently re-conditioned 7.5" 3.62 standard diff for £50.00.   New seals etc put in it 4,000 miles ago.   It's sitting on the floor of my garage waiting for a new home.

hmm I'm interested if it right one.

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The type 9 is more difficult to fit - gear lever extension needed to save your knuckles on the dashboard, plus a change to the input shaft I understand.

The MT75 can be used as is, with just a couple of lugs ground off it, and a bit of tweeking at the gear lever end of things, it's all explained in the build manual.

There is a lot of talk about it's unsuitablility on the grounds of having no ratio change possibilities which only really matter if you intend to sprint it.   Another criticism was that it sat too far forward for good weight distribution, but in the latest SEiW chassis, the MT75 sits well back.   For road use, and track days etc it is fine.

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Craggers

The type 9 is more difficult to fit - gear lever extension needed to save your knuckles on the dashboard, plus a change to the input shaft I understand.

If you get an MT75 chassie ie wide tunnell and a Type 9 gear box you don't need any extensions

Another criticism was that it sat too far forward for good weight distribution, but in the latest SEiW chassis, the MT75 sits well back.

Better if you have a Type 9 in an MT75 chassie

As for the diff you need two a 3.62 LSD type from a XR4x4 and a 3.92 from another car [Diesel?] then build a 3.92 LSD

First gear with either gearbox will be useless but you can start saving for a Pro box........

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If you want to go that route I do have a 3.92 open diff and a 3.62 LSD in the garage that I wish to sell, send me a PM if interested.

I am fitting a BGH long input shaft (2.8L) type 9 gearbox in my MT75 chassised Westfield, gearlever should end up where the MT75 rose jointed lever was, this is then mated to a 3.92 LSD.

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Just like to point out that craggers was the guy wanting to build cheap.   Are you really so sure the type 9 3.92 LSD combo is essential, or just a nice thing to have?

There's a huge difference between every day road use, for which most people would never want anything more than an MT75/3.62 and haring round a track against the clock.   I'm not saying your advice isn't valid, but there is such a thing as overkill.

Just a thought

Also, if you stick with the 3.62 diff, you will find the first gear will not be useless either!   Seems to me there is a type 9 cult here for no really good reason - for the road what exactly is wrong with the MT75?

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If you want to go that route I do have a 3.92 open diff and a 3.62 LSD in the garage that I wish to sell, send me a PM if interested.

I am fitting a BGH long input shaft (2.8L) type 9 gearbox in my MT75 chassised Westfield, gearlever should end up where the MT75 rose jointed lever was, this is then mated to a 3.92 LSD.

Rob, you will need the 50mm spacer between bell housing and box with the long input shaft box. Sorry to disappoint you, but the gearlever will not be in the same position without an extension unless you move the engine back

JT

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As for the diff you need two a 3.62 LSD type from a XR4x4 and a 3.92 from another car [Diesel?] then build a 3.92 LSD

To get a 3.92 LSD you need to find a 2.0 XR4x4 this is the twin cam model NOT the v6 they are fitted with a 3.92 rear axle but not all are LSD, the sierra diesel has a 3.3 diff the 1.8 petrol has the 3.92 as does the 2.0 Injection.

HTH

Neil

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Tommo

I have a Caterham gearbox bell housing spacer on its way.

I have already had a short input shafted box in for a trial fit, the gearlever was too close to the dash for me, but another inch or so will be fine, Matt Seabrook manages with a standard gearbox.

Craggers

If you are building on a budget a Mt75 and an open diff would be fine. I also have 2 Mt75s in the garage, along with one set of:- clutch, release arm and bearing, mounts, gearlever, and propshaft. All of which I was about to put up for sale.

Rob

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Seems to me there is a type 9 cult here for no really good reason - for the road what exactly is wrong with the MT75?

Nothing wrong with it, per se, but it could be made to be much more suitable to it's uses in a Westfield if you were able to fiddle with the internal ratios. If you are sticking with standard ratios with either the type of 'box, then IMHO the 3.6 is optimal available ratio. The difference between the MT75 and type 9 firsts at 7000rpm is only about 2-3mph, with the type 9 being slightly longer/faster. In the real world it makes b******* all difference.

HOWEVER........

If you fit the type 9, there are a myriad of ratios to play with, and for mostly road/some track work, a longer first gear (around 2.66, or 2.8, or almost anything starting with a number less than 3), coupled to a 3.9 diff, will give you excellent ecceleration, a smaller drop in revs between gears (the *biggest* problem with standard ratios, IMHO), allowing you to stay in, or nearer to the power band, and around 40mph in first. This means that when the standard ratio first gear users grab second (at around 30mph), you 're still accelerating away in first. Also, they are likely to drop out of their power band, whereas when you change up, you won't. Second place is the first of the losers...........  :devil:  :devil:  :devil:

Edited to add........

Also note that type 9's from the Capri range have a very slightly longer standard 1st gear than Sierra borne type 9's.........Again though, it's a small difference, but it's worthy of note.....

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I have already had a short input shafted box in for a trial fit, the gearlever was too close to the dash for me, but another inch or so will be fine, Matt Seabrook manages with a standard gearbox.

Matt's engine is right the way back in the chassis though, such that the thermostat housing used to be able to touch the rear of the engine bay. If yours is in the same place, it'll fit fine, no matter what input shaft you use. I prefer the short input shaft (and maybe tweak the lever a bit if it's still too far away) 'cos the spacer adds complication and weight........

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Seems to me there is a type 9 cult here for no really good reason - for the road what exactly is wrong with the MT75?

Nothing wrong with it, per se, but it could be made to be much more suitable to it's uses in a Westfield if you were able to fiddle with the internal ratios. If you are sticking with standard ratios with either the type of 'box, then IMHO the 3.6 is optimal available ratio. The difference between the MT75 and type 9 firsts at 7000rpm is only about 2-3mph, with the type 9 being slightly longer/faster. In the real world it makes b******* all difference.

HOWEVER........

If you fit the type 9, there are a myriad of ratios to play with, and for mostly road/some track work, a longer first gear (around 2.66, or 2.8, or almost anything starting with a number less than 3), coupled to a 3.9 diff, will give you excellent ecceleration, a smaller drop in revs between gears (the *biggest* problem with standard ratios, IMHO), allowing you to stay in, or nearer to the power band, and around 40mph in first. This means that when the standard ratio first gear users grab second (at around 30mph), you 're still accelerating away in first. Also, they are likely to drop out of their power band, whereas when you change up, you won't. Second place is the first of the losers...........  :devil:  :devil:  :devil:

Edited to add........

Also note that type 9's from the Capri range have a very slightly longer standard 1st gear than Sierra borne type 9's.........Again though, it's a small difference, but it's worthy of note.....

Blatters....you know everything...what a man!

2 reasons to have an MT75

1. Reverse gear is in the "proper" place

2. On it's end, it makes a good urinal  :D  ;)

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