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Johnofox

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Hi. 
 

if you want to put the2.0 engine in you will need to keep the 1.8 flywheel as the 2.0 is massive. You also keep the 1.8 water pump as the 2.0 spins the wrong way for your setup. You also keep your 1.8 sump. 
One of the engine mounts will need changing as it does not fit, I can’t remember which one but apart from that it’s a straight swap. 

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13 hours ago, Stu Faulkner said:

You also keep the 1.8 water pump as the 2.0 spins the wrong way for your setup.

That’s the Silvertop - the blacktop requires an idler pulley for the water pump but if the OP is going blacktop to blacktop, everything (inc mounts) will swap over just fine. He’s going to need the carbs rejetting (and maybe new needles) with a rolling road session to check. 

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2 hours ago, Kingster said:

That’s the Silvertop - the blacktop requires an idler pulley for the water pump but if the OP is going blacktop to blacktop, everything (inc mounts) will swap over just fine. He’s going to need the carbs rejetting (and maybe new needles) with a rolling road session to check. 

Good point. 
when I swapped I went from 1.8 silver to 2.0 black. 

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20 hours ago, Stu Faulkner said:

Hi. 
 

if you want to put the2.0 engine in you will need to keep the 1.8 flywheel as the 2.0 is massive. You also keep the 1.8 water pump as the 2.0 spins the wrong way for your setup. You also keep your 1.8 sump. 
One of the engine mounts will need changing as it does not fit, I can’t remember which one but apart from that it’s a straight swap. 

That’s really helpful info Stu. Presume it’s best to pull the engine and box as one rather than mate the box to the engine in situ? Any special pullers etc. needed for the flywheel? 

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On 20/01/2024 at 15:59, corsechris said:

I'd think that sort of activity would be a very quick way to discover if you suffer from oil surge...by which I mean, what sort of sump/oil system does it have?

 I idea tbh but here’s a pic of the sump if it helps to answer that? IMG_9603.thumb.jpeg.199216becd1bae3ff2e60844d5f618e5.jpeg

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Looks to be a shortened but otherwise probably stock Blacktop sump. Can't tell from outside what sort of baffling/anti-surge measures might be present or not.

 

It certainly isn't one of the aftermarket alloy offerings. Nothing fundamentally wrong with that, but given the intended use, FWIW, I'd be looking to either make very sure it has some good baffling present or perhaps look at buying something that is already properly prepared, depending on what you find in there.  Another bonus of the aftermarket alloy jobs is they will increase oil capacity a bit over the chopped down stock item you have there.

 

Might be worth comparing the relative costs of an alloy sump vs a conversion to dry sump. No doubt the dry sump will be more, probably lots more, but again, given your intended use, you could then completely forget about any oil surge concerns. What do others running the Blacktop in your chosen sport do?

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43 minutes ago, Johnofox said:

That’s really helpful info Stu. Presume it’s best to pull the engine and box as one rather than mate the box to the engine in situ? Any special pullers etc. needed for the flywheel? 

You can do it either way, engine out or both but if the box is stopping you might as well just take the engine out.

As for tools you just undo the 6 bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank and it falls off.

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1 hour ago, corsechris said:

Looks to be a shortened but otherwise probably stock Blacktop sump. Can't tell from outside what sort of baffling/anti-surge measures might be present or not.

 

It certainly isn't one of the aftermarket alloy offerings. Nothing fundamentally wrong with that, but given the intended use, FWIW, I'd be looking to either make very sure it has some good baffling present or perhaps look at buying something that is already properly prepared, depending on what you find in there.  Another bonus of the aftermarket alloy jobs is they will increase oil capacity a bit over the chopped down stock item you have there.

 

Might be worth comparing the relative costs of an alloy sump vs a conversion to dry sump. No doubt the dry sump will be more, probably lots more, but again, given your intended use, you could then completely forget about any oil surge concerns. What do others running the Blacktop in your chosen sport do?

I don’t know of anyone using one tbh. There’s one still on a CVH engine and he’s had no issues to my knowledge.

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On 20/01/2024 at 16:59, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman said:

Quickest easiest give away, is there will usually be rack extenders screwed on the ends of the steering arms to accommodate the extra wishbone length.

 

Many, though not all, the wide track makers also use oval or flattened oval section tube as well, whereas narrow is almost always round. A wide track car, will typically have similar track front and rear, but again, there are exceptions.

 

Here’s some pics of mine…

IMG_9587.jpeg

IMG_9588.jpeg

IMG_9597.jpeg

IMG_9596.jpeg

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1 minute ago, Johnofox said:

Here’s some pics of mine…

IMG_9587.jpeg

IMG_9588.jpeg

IMG_9597.jpeg

IMG_9596.jpeg

Some pics blank for some reason…try again

 

 

IMG_9604.png

IMG_9605.png

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On 20/01/2024 at 17:01, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman said:

Another tip (and people love seeing photos anyway!!) If there are parts on the car your not 100% sure about, put some photos up on here - we can usually identify stuff then, unless it's really, really bespoke.

Here’s the full car…need to sort out a front number plate 😅

image.png.f3cd680c394b6321d9159227d65ab386.png

 

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Standard front track, Cortina uprights, so the only option for quicker steering without changing those is a quicker rack. 

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46 minutes ago, Johnofox said:

I don’t know of anyone using one tbh. There’s one still on a CVH engine and he’s had no issues to my knowledge.

In which case, a decent baffle setup would likely be fine then. No reason what you have couldn’t be made to work - it’s not hard to add baffles and trapdoors. 

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4 hours ago, corsechris said:

Standard front track, Cortina uprights, so the only option for quicker steering without changing those is a quicker rack. 

Appreciate the education on this stuff Chris. Are there any off-the-shelf racks which do this? 

 

Re. Sumps; I’ve been trawling the forum and can see the race line sump seems to be well regarded (if not cheap). I like from their webpage that it retains the 5litre capacity unlike a cut down and baffled ex-standard one. 
 

I’ve got a few people to talk to re. engines this week; going to call Andi Johnstone at AJ engineering (some people on FB mentioned he was very good and not too far away compared to many), messaged Northampton Motorsport (again lots of recommendations and I know friends who’ve used them for other things - top drawer but may be too expensive for me!), and a guy called Andy Entwistle runs a place in Scotland called raptor sports cars has an engine (he’s been very helpful directly on FB but very far away and not so well known), plus one or two other leads. 

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I’ve not looked at ‘quick racks’ for the car, but ISTR that they are out there. I’d probably look at Rally Design, Retro Ford and similar for a suitable Mk2 Escort rack. I don’t have any input on what quality you’ll get though! There are threads on here about this topic. 

 

Before buying, do check what you have already though, measure rack travel per turn of the wheel, or alternatively, pop the boots off to check there are no rack travel stops then count turns for lock to lock as this, sadly, seems to be the default way of defining rack ratio.

 

You might find you have rack limit stops to prevent the cycle wings hitting the tub. If so, given your use, it might be worth looking at widetrack so you can restore full travel. This has already been mentioned, but I repeat it here for clarity (I hope). 
 

We have the Silvertop on ours and a Dunnel (I think it was) modified sump. The good thing about the all-alloy one is they can be modified to retain the oil capacity, unlike the Blacktop design.   Raceline seem to be the sump of choice, but not cheap as you say. 
 

Good luck with the engine hunt. I still kick myself that I didn’t buy a spare crate Zetec when they could be had for a few hundred quid. Not so much these days. 
 

 

Forgot to say, personally, I always prefer to take the engine out on its own, rather than engine & box as an assembly. While on the subject, I’ll add, to make things easier and safer, make a couple of alignment pins using spare bellhousing bolts with the heads cut off. Helps keep things aligned when removing and refitting. See my recent ‘winter tinkering’ thread in Tech Talk

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