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[Mike Rowland - Essex AO]

That looks really excellent @DavidMiller. Could you be persuaded to machine more? I'm sure you'd be able to sell a batch easily?

[Matt_S]

13 hours ago, DavidMiller said:

Finally managed to find time to make a tool for removing/installing suspension bushings as I don't have a press.

Looks good! Have you tried it yet?

[DavidMiller]

Only just finished machining yesterday so I haven't had a chance to use yet - will update once I have!

[DavidMiller]

2 hours ago, Mike Rowland - Essex AO said:

That looks really excellent @DavidMiller. Could you be persuaded to machine more? I'm sure you'd be able to sell a batch easily?

let me make sure everything works as it should then I will see if I have any spare time over Christmas!

[Buzzz]

Just finished some ducting for the rad and sealing the joint between the fan and rad due to the bracket. Hopefully a lot better cooling when needed. 

[Mole]

5 hours ago, DavidMiller said:

bush_install_tool Drawing v1.pdf 41.63 kB · 12 downloads

Tried to get all the information on ones sheet - tolerance is pretty loose on this as long as it fits. It should be pretty self-explanatory in how it is used. The tube component has a rebate for the wishbone so fits on one way around. The part that fits on the end of the tube is designed to be reversible - so is used one way around with the tube for removal, then the other way around without the tube for install. The smaller component is used for removal of the old bushing (and install of the new one) and has clearance for the inner crush tube on one side to ensure it presses against the outer metal sleeve of the bushing.

Have you used it yet? Does it work ok? I tried something similar but made up of spacers and struggled to get the bushes out..had to use a press in the end..

I hope it does work well because it looks a great solution 

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

13 hours ago, Mole said:

Have you used it yet? Does it work ok? I tried something similar but made up of spacers and struggled to get the bushes out..had to use a press in the end..

I hope it does work well because it looks a great solution 

It does indeed look a great idea, however I share you concern that compared to a press, you may struggle to get sufficient force onto the bushes, via a M10 thread- some good details here- Thread forces

 

[Matt_S]

It’s surprising how hard they are to press out, my first go with a 20 ton press, the bushes didn’t budge, I ended up using a hacksaw to cut through the bearing just shy of the wishbone material then they pressed out quite easy.

[Tim (Sideways) Johnson - Club Treasurer]

Sorted out a slight coolant leak that appeared the other day. Test fitted my second hand SBFS half roof (designed for an MSA roll bar, but actually fits over my JAP bar quite nicely with the roof struts folded out. Taken my key to the guy in the village so I can get a spare cut and he's putting some poppers on the half roof tension straps so I can use the poppers on the rear body work to do the job nicely. Ordered a higher range fan switch sensor and will be replacing the old fuel hoses with R9 stuff when we get back from a few days on Fuerteventura ready for a blat before Christmas hopefully.

 

I do need someone to look at the map though, as cold starting is still an issue.

[Ross the Scottish exile]

Christmas wrapping done, ball ache! Sleeve type might have been easier when the engine was out but it’s done now, next back on to the suspension and chassis.

[Andrzej]

1 hour ago, Ross the Scottish exile said:

Christmas wrapping done, ball ache! Sleeve type might have been easier when the engine was out but it’s done now, next back on to the suspension and chassis.

 

I know it looks sporty and has its appeal, but I’m a bit cautious about exhaust wrap. In case of any oil leak it can act like a sponge, and oil-soaked material on a hot manifold can significantly increase the fire risk.

Personally, I’d rather keep the manifold as clean as possible, or if heat is an issue, use a proper thermal coating or if possible sth like Inconel . On NA engines I don’t really see a strong benefit from wrapping. Sorry if this sounds overly careful — it’s just that this type of bandage is often used, requires a lot of effort, and in many cases ends up only increasing the potential fire risk.

[Ross the Scottish exile]

It’s a necessity for me it been replaced so it was in place before, I’ve had it on all

my Westfields, it does the job it needs to.

As far as oil leaks go well I’m a bit anal on any leaks, this engine has just been completely rebuilt with new everything. Any leak of any description would be addressed as soon as it’s found I can’t live without a clean engine bay.🤩

[Andrzej]

Just because it worked before doesn’t make it a good argument — a house also stands until the day it fails.

For an NA engine, wrapping the exhaust manifold is really a no-go. There’s no meaningful benefit, but there’s a lot of potential risk. The wrap absorbs oil mist (and there is always some), it traps moisture and water, and even with a stainless manifold it’s not great — the material itself tends to crumble and degrade after one or two seasons. On top of that you get dust and debris spreading everywhere. And after all that: still no real gain.
For turbo setups, wrapping sometimes makes sense on parts that sit very close to heat-sensitive components, but that’s a completely different case.

What exactly does the wrap actually do in your cars?

Sorry, but I’ve seen too many burned cars on track not to mention that this is a very realistic ignition point. If it offered any real performance benefit, at least there would be a trade-off — but it simply doesn’t.