timd Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 But then, for all I know, my one will go pop on the first blat.... I really hope it doesn't.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Algar - Competition Secretary Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 Hey, this is interesting, now we have a CEC verus BEC verus Twin BEC discussion As with all the other discussions it's a personal preference thing, based on finding out as much as you can and then hopefully making an informed decision. Then living with it and optimising it to the best you can Like we all do, don't we lads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu999 Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 As with all the other discussions it's a personal preference thing, based on finding out as much as you can and then hopefully making an informed decision. Then living with it and optimising it to the best you can Like we all do, don't we lads ...or seeing the light and getting a VX.... S'ok, I didnt take my coat off.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 Pros and cons of twin setup are pretty basic really Pros twice the power and torque slightly faster Can run on one engine if other goes pop (or if you want to as they can run individually) good to talk about in the pub Cons Twice the maint Twice the weight Twice the Noise More complex installation More Insurance. If its power you want then get an R1 Bored out to just over a liter, big valve head and cam change, ECU map, then if youre feeling really ambitious get a Supercharger dropped in there to give you the grunt or even a Turbo from Holshot.. Engine new is around 1200 second hand from 700 upwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.S.M Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 another con......fuel consumption!, oh and more weight over the front end to slow down. At the end of the day. The 7 is still like trying to fire a house end through the air, which is your limiting factor-by which you see the marginal speed differentials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timd Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 If its power you want then get an R1 Bored out to just over a liter, big valve head and cam change, ECU map, then if youre feeling really ambitious get a Supercharger dropped in there to give you the grunt or even a Turbo from Holshot.. Engine new is around 1200 second hand from 700 upwards I think you're still missing the point that in the twin the engines are completely standard and therefore cheap. If/when an engine lets go in a blown, bored setup you're potentially gonna have a proportion of that tuning to pay again - each time. If you decide that is an acceptable risk then there is nothing to stop you fitting a turbo/supercharger/nitrous/cams/headwork etc to the engines in the twin. Also, from a personal standpoint, when I started out on mine there were no proven turbo BEC installations that I was aware of, Busa's were still megabucks, rare, and unproven, and the R1 didn't exist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb893 Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 the engines are completely standard and therefore cheap. This was my point also. To get the kind of power that either Tim's car and hopefully mine will produce by tuning the engine would be very expensive and a tad risky, in that if it went pop to get back would cost the same big bundle of money. My thinking on the turbo front was that the base engine is cheap and it needs very minimal modification to run the fan - and I can do all of it. Tims car has the same philo, phillosph, idea behind it... the engines are cheap and easy to replace for the same power. You can ring shed loads of power from any bike (or car) engine but expense is the final rev limiter And don't forget: ...different is good. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted January 19, 2004 Share Posted January 19, 2004 To suggest another route, which is to go to town on the engine internals to make it as strong as possible. That way, your investment is also protected. This might be the case if someone was to turbocharge a busa engine Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepi Posted January 19, 2004 Share Posted January 19, 2004 Have a look hereMy Webpage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernieXTR2 Posted January 19, 2004 Share Posted January 19, 2004 I have a twin engine Zcar 440BHP and 640BHP with NOS plus four wheel drive and traction control. 0-60mph 2.8 sec and 100mph 6.2 sec. No single engine road registered car can look at this missile. I also have an XTR2 and it feels as if your out a Sunday run compared with the Zcars 100WR See car at www.elitespas.net/car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted January 19, 2004 Share Posted January 19, 2004 Only 984 bhp/ton though.... Let me know when you break the 1,000 bhp/ton barrier Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milhouse Posted January 20, 2004 Author Share Posted January 20, 2004 Has anybody else had bits snap on their busa ? Clutch slave bracket, rev box bracket, anti roll bar front... Have I managed to get a deffective one or what or has everybosy had these niggles ? If u got 2 engines, how have u strengthened the chasis brackets etc to cope with the power ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazzer Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Had a clutch slave bracket fail, all the other stuff is OK upto now and I have just had it all apart to check. The roll bar can be down to lack of lubrication. Bazzer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timd Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 If u got 2 engines, how have u strengthened the chasis brackets etc to cope with the power ? What "brackets" are you talking about?? At the back end the diff area is fine for the power as standard. Everything in the chassis forward of the scuttle is basically not a westfield anymore - it is designed for the job. Also most of the chassis sides and tunnel have doubled up on the triangulation... Result is a chassis that is visibly stiffer than a standard westy one despite cutting away most of the passenger footwell - and that was before adding the cage.. All this stuff is on my website, along with plenty of pictures, go have a look there for more details.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick M Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 To suggest another route, which is to go to town on the engine internals to make it as strong as possible. That way, your investment is also protected. Yes, and no... I agree that building an engine good and strong is no bad thing, but there's always the thing you didn't (or couldn't) plan for which might come along and p*** on your chips. Take, for example, Peter Carmichael's super-duper K Series engine. On paper it should have been pretty much bomb-proof, but one shredded alternator belt which found it's way into the cam belt and it was history. Not sure if he's rebuilt it and what needed doing but if you add expensive bits to an engine then, should the worst happen, it's just more expensive to put right. Personally I try not to think about that though, seeing as I went down the expensive internals route when I built my VX engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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