Jump to content

Compression tester for zetec


Recommended Posts

Posted

I’m looking to buy a compression tester ,there are a few available but I understand some are not long enough or have too short a thread . 

Can anyone tell me which one suits and where I can get one off the shelf Halfords or at a motor factors place  . 

While im asking which performance plugs for a 2.0 zetec blacktop 

 

 

Steve

Posted
5 minutes ago, mr_mcp said:

That’s what I’m after but want to know where I can walk in and buy one ,if I can get one  tomorrow from somewhere a mechanic I know will help me this weekend .

Due to other commitments he’s not available for another month or so 

Posted

They have them in halfords, I've seen em. You'll need the extension and not sure but you can get them separately 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Terryathome said:

Thanks Terry If I buy the item in the link is that all I need to carry out the test .You mentioned an extension,do I need to get one ?

@Terryathome

Thanks 

 

Steve 

Posted

Before you do the compression test

1. If you have compressor blow out any dirt where the spark plug sits (stops muck going in the bore when you take out the spark plug)

2. Would take out all spark plugs (engine will turn over easier and faster (you don't have to but again good practice)

3. You don't need fuel or spark so pull the fuses (good practice)

4. A little oil on the O ring seals will help you seal the joints (good practice)

5. Gauge is on 0

6. Your ready to test. Turn over the engine for about 5 seconds or so with the throttle fully open, you will see the gauge stop increasing.

7. Write down the result

8. Move on to next one, remember to reset gauge to zero

Hope the above helps

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I have the one from Halfords right in front of me. Its fine and fits. I found you only need to hand tighten it or its a pain to get off. And put a little grease on threads and rubber sealing ring too.

Works fine.

Gauges go to 300psi which is enougth

Posted

@Terryathome

Tried to do the compression test but failed ,as the thread on the black tube isn’t long enough !

Does the solid shaft extension.have a tapered section the same width as the thread,(it looks like it does in the picture )

On the plus side whilst finding this out I was shown the process and am confident enough to give it a go myself and I changed the plugs. Here’s a picture for any plug readers I wouldn’t know what to look for.

 

6446AD2C-EE7D-4E69-9D41-4FEE773A507B.jpeg

D178A4BC-106D-4312-8CAA-E917B09F732B.jpeg

Posted
10 hours ago, Terryathome said:

Sorry about the adapter not fitting

 

Plugs, will this help

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/sparkplug.shtml

No probs Terry,the plug link was useful mine look ok I think and I learned something new which is the whole point owning these cars .

Ive been told the end on the extension bar is tapered to the same width of the thread so  for anyone with a zetec you’ll need one .The testing kit was as good as £40 from Argos and the bar is another £20 ish .A quick look around the web and I can get the same tester delivered for £15 and the bar for £16 so I’m off back to Halfords for a refund .

When the new gear arrives I’ll have a go myself but how will I know what compression I should have,after the work by Dunnell will it be running higher compression ,do I need to ask him or will I look a tw@t .Or is there a figure from ford it should be ?

 

 

F577D6FD-C66F-4713-9BA8-CD01AC0739F6.jpeg

Posted
26 minutes ago, Weekend Warrior said:

When the new gear arrives I’ll have a go myself but how will I know what compression I should have,after the work by Dunnell will it be running higher compression ,do I need to ask him or will I look a tw@t .Or is there a figure from ford it should be ?

 

 

 

Normally the gauges are marked with a green band in the "OK" range.

As a very general rule of thumb anything over 100 psi is normal but the more important figure is that all cylinders are within 10-15% of each other.

Posted

You could do a leak down test aswell.

Posted
2 hours ago, Terryathome said:

You could do a leak down test aswell.

That is best, but needs a leak down tester - haven’t the prices on these tumbled over the last few years! And a source of compressed air to fill the cylinders with.

- A leak down test essentially pressurises the cylinders in turn from a compressor, without the engine turning over. You can then measure not only over how long the pressure takes to drop, but you can frequently physically hear where the air is escaping, if you do have a “leak”, so for instance, if it’s valve wear, you can hear air escaping into the inlet or exhaust manifolds!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.