Deanspoors Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I built a Megabusa 4-5 year ago now and really enjoyed it, what I would say is that a lot of the parts that I originally bought from Westfield I very quickly replaced for IMO a better alternative, for example; 4" headlights Carbon Tillet seats Carbon Aeroscreen Carbon front cycle wings Carbon interior panels Custom Manifold and exhaust Carbon dash Protech Springs and Dampers Playskool Front and Rear anti-roll bars .. the costs to buy these parts are not often not too dissimilar to buying the originals from Westfield, but IMO much improve the look/function of the car. In hindsight If I bought these immediately I would have saved quite a bit of dosh. I do have a bit of an addiction for carbon too, so I have replaced all my internal (and some external) panels with Carbon. This is a very time consuming job to do once the aluminum panels are installed (drilling out rivets, etc) so have a good think about whether this is something you'd be interested in before installing. Other options I would budget for are; an AIM digital dash & AB performance paddles. With regards to the reverse gearbox, you'll need one for IVA, and Westfield don't supply a box anymore as there's is apparently useless (although I'm running 370bhp through mine with no issues yet). I would look into the quaife reverse gearbox, similarly priced, and same type output shafts. Something which is quite expensive which is often not considered is the cost of a differential, this is usually from a Sierra, but because of the gear ratios for the Busa you'll need a 3.14 ratio which are quite rare, especially if you'd prefer an LSD type (definitely recommend if you're tracking the car). Don't worry too much about buying a new one, just make sure it looks new when you go through IVA (a tin of spray paint often suffices). With regards to dry sump, I have had this conversation with a number of people, yes a dry sump is a good idea, although you'll have to replace the mechanical water pump with an electric one, (which IMO isn't as reliable), another option is a swinging pickup sump. I ran my Megabusa for a year, with plenty of track days, sometimes even using slicks, and I had no issues with oil surge.. that's by no means a guarantee though.. it's a lot cheaper and simpler option. With regards to the custom exhaust and manifold, do yourself a favour and go out and get a custom setup, the Westfield one isn't great, plus it's loud! I struggled to pass noise tests on track days from the offset, eventually investing in a custom manifold and exhaust from AAS (cost around 750) although that didn't include a cat, which you'll need for IVA. A power commander was mentioned above, I IVA'd and ran mine without one and it was fine, possibly lacked a few BHP, but I don't think they're essential.. it's an extra cost for PC plus the mapping to go with it (if you're on a tight budget). Don't disregard buying a second hand car, it's often worth it to get past the hassle of IVA, plus there's always the option of stripping it and rebuilding it with your own preferred parts. I'm down Newcastle/Durham way if you're ever traveling past. More than happy to help with any questions on building a Megabusa. Hope some of that helps.... Dean 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S2T Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Dean why do you say a rear diff ratio of 3.14 is required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 8 minutes ago, S2T said: Dean why do you say a rear diff ratio of 3.14 is required Because a “std” 3.92 ratio will mean it screams at 8k revs at 70 and tops out at 100 ish (guessing the numbers but that’s the idea). A 3.14 should give you something like 130 or more in top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Looking at Dean's list makes me think you’ll struggle to do it with all new bits under budget. But if you get a few more good used parts then it is achievable IMO. That might mean a Q reg rather than new, but don’t let that bother you as in the kit world it’s no big deal - we buy purely on condition and spec. Also a Q has the advantage of being easy for MOTs down the line with no cat or emissions to worry about. I deliberately Q’d my build for this reason. However, if you like personal plates, then a Q is no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S2T Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 10 minutes ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said: Because a “std” 3.92 ratio will mean it screams at 8k revs at 70 and tops out at 100 ish (guessing the numbers but that’s the idea). A 3.14 should give you something like 130 or more in top. Ok I guess it depends how you intend to use it Viz sprinting/ hillclimbing focussed you may consider the 3.92 ratio. So as to not hijeck thread will ask question re ratios in Technical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Dean’s list makes for a fantastic Westfield, but I struggle to see how you’d do it in your budget! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanspoors Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 3 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said: Dean’s list makes for a fantastic Westfield, but I struggle to see how you’d do it in your budget! I did get carried away a some point down the line. I’ve spent 10k on a supercharged engine since then, plus pneumatic shift change, 4 wheel traction control, etc, etc and still more things to do, but to be honest. A BEC is definitely possible for 15k, as long as you hunt around for some choice second hand parts. Most bits will be as good as new with a good clean or a coat paint. Westfield prices are going up in value so they’re now not so much of an expensive hobby... in the respect that a large proportion can be recouped if you needed to sell, god forbid The more worrying thing for me would be whether Westfield can actually supply a whole kit as they tend to sell you snowballs and then wait for it to snow. With regards to the diff, as mentioned above, I’d very much recommend a 3.14 if you plan to use the car on the road at all otherwise you’ll be doing 8k revs at 70mph, it would make the car undriveable in my opinion. Plus the car has enough torque to easily handle the 3.14 ratio without it feeling sluggish off the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanspoors Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 My initial list was just to highlight the expensive mistake of not upgrading initially (for me) obviously everybody's circumstances are unique, you’ll still be very happy with a bog standard Megabusa, but at no difference in cost from standard, definitely go for Playskool ARB’s and Protech Shocks! I can of course make a list of my ideal Westfield if you’d like to know 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A1243R Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 2 hours ago, Deanspoors said: My initial list was just to highlight the expensive mistake of not upgrading initially (for me) obviously everybody's circumstances are unique, you’ll still be very happy with a bog standard Megabusa, but at no difference in cost from standard, definitely go for Playskool ARB’s and Protech Shocks! I can of course make a list of my ideal Westfield if you’d like to know That'd be good to see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydaffurn Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Thanks guys for all the feedback and info this is what I’m looking for so it gives me an idea of what I want when I go to talk to Westfield. so best to get the starter kit over the full kit and change it to better spec parts at similar prices to Westfield. £15k not set in stone just a round about figure I’d happily go £17/18 to get a higher specced car. dont want to buy used I actually fancy doing the build I’ll get a lot of enjoyment at the end knowing I’d actually built it, that was my initial main fear of a non mechanic could actually build one of these. re engine defo fancy a bec so what other options are there that can produce similiar power to a busa, from research a lot of people say they are the best choice due to torque but as advised in this post the cost of a busa vs ?? Could be a few grand. So what’s other options are there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosKev Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Don't get too hung up on max power of engines! It''s a circa 500kg car,they are all fast and will try and spin round on you in a blink of a eye if you are not fully concentrating! Nothing like driving big bhp heavy cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydaffurn Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) Any links to good build diary threads with pics for a bec busa cbr r1 so I can get a read up so I know what I’m getting into? Edited March 11, 2018 by Raydaffurn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydaffurn Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 Deanspoors do you have an email address got a few questions for you if you wouldn’t mind? tried to private mail but doesn’t allow me. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanspoors Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 yeah sure, it's deanspoors@hotmail.com or find me on fb. Dean Spoors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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