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Posted

Can anyone with ITB's (Jenvey's if it matters) tell me how I attach the throttle cable?  The cable is currently going 1st through a bracket and then ends like above.  Is all what's missing from the picture an end clamp (like the ones you see on bike brake cables)?  Or am I missing something?

2017-01-30 17.15.20.jpg

Posted

I take it the cable is coming from the bottom of the photo?

If so the outer sheath should be inserted into the ribbed portion of the adjuster, as it is at the moment the adjuster isn't an adjuster it's just an inner cable guide and yes there should be some kind of cable clamp. 

It looks a bit cobbled together from bits n bobs to me, nothing like mine, but then again it might be correct that way.

Ian

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, I've got nothing to compare it against, and I have no reason to believe the ITB's have been 'cobbled together' despite them being supplied by Westfield ;) 

 

Would this clamp be suitable?

Posted

I would think that kind of clamp would be fine, the adjuster is still isn't doing anything though.

I'm sure better informed people will be along soon :d

Posted

Looks a bit Heath Robinson TBH. The cable 'outer' adjuster is upside down. I would just buy a new mountain bike v brake cable , as the cable looks very rough and kinked. I dont know what your throttle cable stop is like, but an MTB has a barrel end and you have a new outer cover from the pedal box to the throttle bodies. Also an MTB cable ( such as clarkes) available from Halfords for a few quid is more smoother and progressive.

Tektro_985A_PIC.gif

Posted

Sorry guys, I think there is a little misunderstanding going on.  Not helped with the incredible c**p picture I've posted.  My throttle cable is fine and is only kinked at the top which is way above where it would secure on the ITB.  The outer cover of the cable is connected on (what looks like) the same part as in the picture, except it is mounted on a solid arm underneath the ITB.  The top of the cable operates the butterflies on both sides if I added a nipple screw, so there is no need for additional linkage.

I've since found a picture of when the engine was mounted in the Westfield from the seller, which (if you zoom in) shows the nipple screw and top part in the same way as I've shown above

2016-08-30 17.49.10.jpg

2016-08-30 17.50.47.jpg

Posted

It's a bit convoluted looking where it attaches to the ITBs throttle leaver, but yes, looks like it might just need a nipple to secure it.

FWIW, a lot of Jenvey installations don't use the Jenvey throttle linkage, IIRC Westfield used to supply various mounting brackets for the cable, to mount it without the official linkage.

Do consider the pukka Jenvey linkage in the future though, when funds have recovered! I know it's dear, but it's very effective and lets you fine tune the pedal travel and pedal action to give a really nice throttle pedal response to match your own tastes. (Some like a long, progressive action with plenty of travel, some a shorter, snappier action).

  • Like 1
Posted

Have now 'nippled' it up and got a subsequent question.  With the pedal in unpressed position (ie. in neutral gear at idle), do you expect the butterflies to be slightly ajar?  Or completely closed?

Similarly, on WOT, do the butterflies *have* to be fully horizontal, or could they be at a slight angle from horizontal.

Just trying to determine if I have enough pedal travel, and if I've set it up correctly :yes:

Posted

Butterflies should be shut on idle. The air correction screw adjusts the idle. Butterflies should be horizontal at WOT to max airflow.

Posted

Butterflies should be set slightly open, (no air engine no start) the air correction screw is for balancing only.

On full throttle the butterflies should be fully inline and not under or over rotating.

Read Jenvey instructions if in doubt.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Oooops, thought I set mine closed and adjusted air bleeds. From the Jenvey manual

 

BALANCING THROTTLE BODIES Idle bleed screws (if fitted) should be closed at the start of this operation. Before starting the engine adjust throttle balance by setting the single idle adjuster screw such that the nearest butterfly is just visibly open, then adjust the cross-link screws such that the remaining butterflies are at a similar angle. Start the engine and use a flow meter to check airflow through each throttle body bore, adjusting as necessary. It may be necessary from time to time to reset the idle. Always re-check the balance on all bores after each adjustment and with the cross-link adjuster locking nuts tightened. Idle bleed screws (if fitted) may now be used for a final fine balance. Bear in mind that adjusting the idle bleed screws will not affect the throttle position sensor. If a flow meter is not available reasonable results can be achieved by using a length of small-bore tube to listen to the flow through each bore.

Posted

Now your cooking Thrusty

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Right, found the manual, and the section above mentioned by @Thrustyjust.  I don't actually need to balance them as theoretically speaking they were balanced and mapped when the engine was in the other Westfield.  I only have to connect my throttle cable.  Currently the butterflies are closed, but I know now that I should adjust the cable now to allow a little bit of air in at idle.  With regards to WOT, the manual also says

FULL THROTTLE STOP

The butterfly angle when shut is 82 degrees relative to the throttle body axis. The full throttle stop is usually set slightly below maximum and may require adjustment, but bear in mind that many engines give best results at less than the fully open position. 

So to me that means that they do not need to be fully horizontal...

Posted

Probably thinking of DCOE set up Terry , which you wind the idle screws out a turn , as throttle butterflies are shut on those............ Luckily I dont have this multi things anymore , just an engine that makes enough power for now on one :yes:

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