Badger56 Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Hi All, Did a bit of work on the seight the other night which necessitated removing the nose cone, I found that the radiator is mounted to the cone and not the chassis, i.e take the cone off and the radiator comes with it. I doubt this is the best solution (although it appears to work fine) due to the weight etc and I think it was done when a past owner fitted a higher spec rad. I'll probably look at mounting it "properly" over the winter but wondered if anyone has any thoughts or pointers? Are there brackets etc available? or is it a fabrication job? I have no detail about the rad other than "high capacity alloy" which isn't a lot to go on I know. Comments and particularly photo's would be much appreciated. Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 It's the normal way of mounting the rad in the ducted nose. Though modifying, as you say, for convenience, has always been popular. No off the shelf brackets though, as far as I'm aware. There are pictures and things in the archives on the Boardroom, hen I get a chance, I'll have a dig and see what I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger56 Posted July 22, 2016 Author Share Posted July 22, 2016 It's the normal way of mounting the rad in the ducted nose. Though modifying, as you say, for convenience, has always been popular. No off the shelf brackets though, as far as I'm aware. There are pictures and things in the archives on the Boardroom, hen I get a chance, I'll have a dig and see what I can find. Thanks Dave, I had some rolling road work done a little while ago and the mechanic said he'd never seen one like it, :-) if its supposed to be that way it takes the "urgency" away but I may well look at it over the winter for "convenience" as you say. Pictures would be great if you have any. Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Assuming we're not talking at cross purposes! The V8 Ducted nose is designed to trap the radiator between the front mounted duct that joins the opening in the front of the nose, and a rear mounted "exhaust" duct, that guides the air out the back of the radiator and up out of the slot in the top of the nose cone, near the back edge. The ductwork does screw to the nose cone, but the rad is not bolted to the ductwork, if you see what I mean. What a few have done, is fabricate brackets that join to the front of the chassis, and extend forward to mount to the radiator. At the same time, the rear section of duct is kept "mounted" to the rad - I assume it's attached to the brackets somehow. While the front half of the duct is permanently mounted in the nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableLeg Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Here's one that somebody modified by adding brackets to secure the assembly to the chassis. http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/115904-ducted-nose-vertical-radanybody-done-it/page-2 Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Barlow - Show and Events Co-ordinator Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Here is what I came up with, was good for 15k before I sold the car http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/105917-relocating-my-radiator/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger56 Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 Thanks all, I'm thinking of making this a winter project as not particularly urgent, however one of the problems I've recently found is that after having the car tuned, which necessitated the nose cone being pulled forward to access the TDC mark, a hose developed a leak due to being disturbed. It's now a pig to get at to tighten / seal so I'm going to try a tin of "rad weld" before spending an afternoon swearing at it. As it's just a disturbed seal and not an actual hole or split I'm hopeful this will work. Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Barlow - Show and Events Co-ordinator Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 If I was you I would spend a couple of hours getting your clip sorted before using Radweld. I remember one of my bottom hoses was a pita for getting tight after fitting silicon hoses, I used 2 clips in that location which stopped the leak ☺ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger56 Posted July 23, 2016 Author Share Posted July 23, 2016 If I was you I would spend a couple of hours getting your clip sorted before using Radweld. I remember one of my bottom hoses was a pita for getting tight after fitting silicon hoses, I used 2 clips in that location which stopped the leak ☺ Thanks, I'll give it a go, I do have silicon hoses & have had to use a gasket sealer before to get a good seal, I'll use the rad weld as a back up plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger56 Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Just for closure, spent Sunday afternoon removing the nose cone and re-sealing the hoses which are now all nicely water tight, although the standard mounting (or lack of mountings) sounds a bit "odd" it works fine and I would think modifications are only really necessary if you're going to be removing your nose cone on a regular basis. Thanks for all the replies again, massive help as always. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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