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New chap on the block in North Yorkshire


kmd1154

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Speaking as a chap with a 1.6 CVH and twin Weber 40s, you will almost certainly not get an extra 40 bhp.  Mine's out of an XR2 and produces about 130 bhp, and although I'd love more (who wouldn't? - it's almost never enough), that would take an engine swap.  What will the twin Webers give you?  More power, a great noise, a lighter wallet, higher fuel consumption, and a lot of fun.  Steve from Canada has done a bike carb conversion that's quite tasty too.

 

Oh yes, we can definitely help you perform a cashendectomy on your wallet for you, no problems. :d

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Well the first of the alterations are in hand. My Westy has large chrome headlamps, chrome wishbones and BBS alloy wheels. The problem with the chrome stuff is while I'm sure it looked great new, it is now showing some rust, and the lamps are flaking. So I'm in negotiations with another member for the purchase of some black 5 3/4 inch headlamps and black wishbones, all of which will get blasted and either re painted or powder coated. I'm thinking they, with the cycle wings that will be going on in place of the clam shells will give the front a slightly lower looking profile.

I'd also like to replace the suspension struts. Not with anything spectacular, standard Spax adjustable will do because I think mine have stood too long. They look like they are past it and the back end feels like it has been better. So yellow powder coated springs should contrast nicely with the BRG and black fixtures.

I've been today and picked up five x five spoke alloy wheels which will be getting some nice new rubber and going on in place of the BBS alloys. I think these few modifications will bring the car to a more conventional look, as it definitely looks dated just now.

So if anyone would like to comment I'd appreciate any advice, in particular on the tyre side, bearing in mind they will be required to perform in real road conditions, not on track .

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Have a plan in place for dealing with the tub sides after removing clam shells; grp is a funny material, it moves and creeps over time. It may not just be a case of dealing with a line of six bolt holes up each side, you may also find the grp has physically bowed out where the bolts pulled it tight to the wings. You also, even with rubber gasket in the joint, tend to get little stones and things flicked in there, so you may find you have a few little scratches etc to sort out too.

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Bike carbs are a great upgrade, thanks for the mention Scott. Smooth throttle response all the way through the range. Lovely noise as well..a man must have the noise!

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Thanks Dave. I suppose I'm not going to know what work will be required there until the current wings are lifted off, and I did wonder if it would be more than just polishing out a few marks.

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Hi and welcome I too have the cvh on twin fortys I live in airton near malham so not too far away hope we can get a meet up soon

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Hi and welcome I too have the cvh on twin fortys I live in airton near malham so not too far away hope we can get a meet up soon

 

You didn't happen to be coming through Leyburn on Sunday did you ? Red with a '7' in the nose-cone ?

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No not me I have the westfield badge I the nose cone. ( how dare you 7 badge What next ) lol

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Dave. I suppose I'm not going to know what work will be required there until the current wings are lifted off, and I did wonder if it would be more than just polishing out a few marks.

If you check this link http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/115197-a-happy-bunny/ , I had an issue with deterioration of the GRP at the front of the tub moulding, so cut it out, had aluminium flared panels made up and powder coated. It really adds to the look (in my opinion :)).

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The clams do extend a bit further down the tub, but replacement sides at the front would get rid of most of the mounting points.

 

Alternatively, if you have a look on eBay, there's a company doing vinyl strip kits that includes side stripes that would probably cover some of the marks/holes. (Obviously there's full on wrapping too for anything really bad.)

 

I'm not sure if you have interior side trim panels and outer tub aluminium panels, but you will need to either remove the trim panels and cut some access holes in the outer a, or just cut access holes through both, to get at the two sets of securing nuts on each side, nearest the back of the car. (Assuming they've been fitted as per build manual). If you've been very lucky, the builder may have fitted captive nuts, in which case, no trim removal needed! (Where's that smug icon, when you need it!)

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It does have interior panels Dave. I'm going to have to have them out at some point though because the outer nuts have rusted and at the very least they need replacing. There is also some tidying up to do on the chassis at the rear. Looks like it's going to be up on stands for a while over winter. Does anyone know which paint to use on the chassis rails ? Is hammerite smooth good enough? The front seems ok but the back is showing surface corrosion.

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Hammerite just isn't what it used to be, sadly. I wouldn't touch it now i'm afraid. There are a few alternatives that have been suggested in other threads, though I can't say I've tried them personally as yet.

 

As far as the chassis goes, for high wear areas around wheels etc that tend to get blasted with road grit, and for the areas that will be inaccessible later, POR15 is a fantastic product. It's designed to go over lightly rusted steel etc - just get rid of loose stuff first, and is incredibly tough. It's also evil stuff if you get it on your hands etc and let it dry - it won't come off till it's worn off! POR15 itself isn't UV stable, so in areas exposed to daylight, it's best to give a top coat of their chassis black, or possibly one of the alternatives to black Smoothrite.

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